According to research from World Coffee Portal in 2021, 16% of UK consumers have tried oat milk in a coffee shop in the past 12 months – making it the most popular plant milk in the country. Moreover, UK sales of oat milk increased by over 100% between 2019 and 2020 to £146 million (US $177.8 million). 

However, the UK is just one example of a market where oat milk is thriving: it has also grown explosively across Europe, the US, Asia, and Latin America.

However, some five years ago, the vast majority of people weren’t even aware of oat milk – at that time, almond, coconut, and soy milk were the only plant-based options available.

So how did oat milk become so popular, and will it continue to be dominant? To find out, I spoke with three industry experts – read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article on plant milks in the World Barista Championships.

When was oat milk first invented?

Plant milks have certainly become more popular in recent years – which is largely a result of consumers becoming more environmentally conscious, especially across younger generations.

However, some types of plant milk have been around for centuries. Soy milk, for example, can be traced back to 14th-century China, and was first commercially produced in the late 1910s across Europe, Asia, the US, and Australia.

Oat milk, meanwhile, is much newer than other plant milks. Its origins date back to the early 1990s, when Swedish food scientist Rickard Öste invented the drink while conducting research on lactose intolerance and sustainable food production. Öste later founded Oatly with his brother Bjorn – the first known commercial producer of oat milk.

In the following years, Oatly’s sales remained relatively low, largely because of a lack of marketing and branding. However, in 2012, the company hired current CEO Toni Petersson, who led a more sustainability-focused campaign over the decade that followed – primarily focusing on millennials.

In 2017, as part of its marketing campaigns in the US and UK, Oatly sales representatives provided specialty coffee shops with free samples of its barista-formulated oat milk. 

With many baristas impressed by its neutral flavour, creamy texture, and ability to create high-quality microfoam, more and more coffee shops began to stock it – even leading to stock shortages following sharp rises in demand.

In the years since, more and more competitor brands have launched their own barista oat milks – including Alpro, Minor Figures, Califia Farms, Pacific Foods, Elmhurst, and Chobani – and sales of oat milk have continued to skyrocket.

How big is the market for oat milk?

Sales of plant milks have increased significantly in recent years, but the oat milk market has seen the most growth by far. In the US alone, retail sales of oat milk increased by more than 50% to US $527.44 million in 2022 – indicating its mass appeal among consumers.

Pedro Lisboa is the Head of Coffee Relations at Nude, an oat milk company in São Paulo, Brazil.

“The oat milk market is growing rapidly in the US and Western Europe,” he says. “In Germany, for instance, oat milk represents 60% of the overall plant milk market.”

He adds that while plant milks only account for around 3% of Brazil’s overall milk market, oat milk makes up a significant percentage of this segment.

There are a number of reasons for the explosive growth of oat milk. One of these is that now more than ever, consumers are more mindful of their health, as well as their impact on the environment.

“The production of oat milk results in lower levels of carbon emissions than other plants,” Pedro says. “Even though the production of oats requires more farmland than almond milk, it uses less water. 

“Moreover, land and water use for producing cow’s milk is significantly higher,” he adds.

Jacek Walterowicz is co-founder of (Un)Ordinary, an oat milk brand in the UK.

“Consumers are aware of the sustainable benefits of oat milk, which is one of the most environmentally-friendly dairy alternatives when the ingredients are sourced and produced locally.” 

He explains that (Un)Ordinary sources its oats from Britain, which helps to reduce the company’s carbon footprint.

Alongside sustainability concerns, the growing number of people following a vegan diet has helped oat milk become more popular. According to research from the German vegan supermarket chain Veganz, 2.6 million people stated they were vegan in a 2020 survey – double the number four years prior.

On a similar note, higher levels of lactose intolerance is boosting sales of oat milk in some countries. Research has found that between 90% and 100% of East Asian people have issues consuming lactose, which makes plant milks more attractive in these markets.

And while soy milk is traditionally still very popular in many of these countries, the Asia-Pacific oat milk market is expected to grow by 14.7% year-on-year until 2026.

Many people also believe that the taste and texture of oat milk is better than other plant milks, which has also led to significant growth of the market.

Daisy Swiers is the UK Country Manager for Califia Farms, a plant milk company in California, US. 

“Many consumers prefer oat milk because of its neutral taste and similar mouthfeel to cow’s milk,” she says. “This familiar texture makes it popular among those who want to make a switch to plant-based milks.”

Why is oat milk so popular in specialty coffee?

Although oat milk sales have increased across several food and beverage categories, there has been substantial growth in the specialty coffee market in particular.

“Over the last 15 years, the specialty coffee sector has boomed,” Pedro explains. “As part of specialty coffee culture, baristas use milks which allow a coffee’s complex flavour notes to shine through.

“When steamed, oat milk has a natural sweetness which is similar to cow’s milk,” he adds.

Jacek agrees, saying: “When it comes to taste, oat milk complements the flavours in coffee, and doesn’t overpower them.

“It also performs well when steamed – creating a smooth microfoam with a creamy texture,” he adds.

Oat milk naturally contains less proteins and fats than cow’s milk – both of which are essential to create stable and high-quality microfoam. To compensate for this, many barista-formulated oat milks include plant-based gellan gum. This bonds with calcium molecules to thicken and stabilise microfoam – enabling baristas to pour high-quality latte art. 

This has even led some specialty coffee shops to use oat milk by default, including Blue Bottle and Onyx Coffee Lab. In recent years, we have also seen some national Barista Championship competitors use oat milk in their routines, despite the unwritten rule against doing so.

However, the Specialty Coffee Association recently updated its rules and regulations for several 2023 World Coffee Championships, including the World Barista Championship. As part of these rule changes, a number of plant-based milks can now be used in the milk beverage course – indicating a growing awareness and acceptance of plant milks, including oat milk.

The growth of the plant-based ready-to-drink (RTD) coffee market has also helped to drive the popularity of oat milk. Now more than ever, there is a widening range of oat-based RTD coffee drinks, such as lattes, cold brews, and nitro lattes.

What might the future hold?

Pedro believes that oat milk’s popularity is unlikely to wane anytime soon. However, he notes that there could be a number of challenges which could influence growth.

“We expect more competitor brands to enter the market, as well as a possible decline in the supply of raw materials, and in turn, price increases.

“Furthermore, distribution to smaller towns can be difficult,” he adds. “There are also some regulations on the branding and marketing of oat milk because [using terms like ‘milk’] can cause confusion for some consumers.”

As the term traditionally refers to cow’s milk, some governments and regulating bodies have imposed restrictions on using “milk” or certain other descriptors on plant-based product packaging. Under current European Union legislation, for example, the term “milk” cannot be included on plant milk packaging.

However, despite these potential setbacks, Pedro says that “oat milk will remain the most popular plant milk [for the foreseeable future]”.

He adds: “There will be increased competition from other plant milk brands which use cheaper ingredients, but there will be significant innovation in the oat milk market, in terms of how it’s produced and overall quality.”

Jacek agrees, saying: “The next few years will be challenging for the overall plant milk beverage category, but oat milk will continue to lead the market.”

Daisy believes that consumers’ focus on health will also influence the growth of the oat milk market.

“The plant-based beverage category is showing no signs of slowing down,” she says. “Consumers are looking for plant-based drinks that offer complete nutrition, as well as containing more natural ingredients and less sugar. 

“We anticipate high growth to continue as more people adopt a plant-based diet over the next five to ten years, however, depending on the brand, oat milks can contain more calories and sugars compared to other dairy alternatives,” she adds.

Furthermore, the recent emergence of plant milk blends which contain several base ingredients, such as oat, soy, and sunflower seed, could also have an impact on oat milk sales. Many of these blends have been developed to closely mimic the texture and creaminess of cow’s milk – a trend that is seemingly becoming more popular.

“Consumers have many options now, from independent brands that make fresh, bottled plant milks to more established companies which lead the market and help to create trends,” Jacek says.

It’s fair to say that oat milk has become a staple for many coffee shops around the world, and it’s likely that its growth will continue at pace over the next few years.

However, as the plant milk market gets increasingly saturated with new brands, there’s no denying that oat milk brands will need to differentiate themselves and remain competitive.

“Coffee shops and baristas now have more choice than ever before when it comes to oat drinks, so it’s up to brands to ensure their products stand out,” Daisy concludes.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on what the future holds for plant milks & coffee.

Photo credits: (Un)Ordinary, Nude

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However, in his winning 2022 World Barista Championship (WBC) routine, Australian competitor Anthony Douglas also weighed his milk course beverages to create a more consistent sensory experience for all four WBC judges.

Naturally, this has led to a pertinent question being asked in the specialty coffee sector: should more coffee shops also be weighing milk? And if so, how would this influence both barista workflow and the customer experience?

To find out more about weighing milk in coffee shops, I spoke with several coffee professionals. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on whether we should allow plant milks in the World Barista Championships.

Why weigh milk?

First and foremost, weighing milk-based beverages can help to reduce milk waste, which is particularly useful for coffee shops. Most baristas are trained to carefully eyeball the amount of milk they pour for each drink, but even the most experienced baristas can sometimes use too much.

Of course, this leads to leftover steamed milk, which if not used for other beverages, can quickly increase a coffee shop’s waste costs. In fact, some coffee shops can waste up to US $15 of leftover milk every day.

Anthony Douglas is the training manager at Axil Coffee Roasters in Melbourne, Australia. He is also the 2022 World Barista Champion.

During his winning WBC routine, Anthony prepared his milk course beverages for the judges before weighing each drink on a scale. But why did he do this?

“Baristas and WBC competitors weigh coffee doses and yields, so also weighing your milk can add another level of consistency – especially in competitions,” he says.

Kirk Pearson is the founder of Sub-Zero Coffee, a frozen coffee pop-up shop in Victoria, Australia. 

He emphasises that much like using an optimal coffee-water ratio, baristas and coffee shop owners should do the same with coffee and milk.

“A few years ago, we were using an espresso blend from ONA Coffee,” he says. “[After some experimenting], we found it tasted best with 110g of milk – no less and no more.

“It’s a great example of how weighing milk is so important,” he adds.

Most different kinds of milk (including cow’s milk and certain types of plant milks) taste sweet and have a creamy mouthfeel. In some cases, using too much milk can overpower the delicate and complex flavours in coffee – although this very much depends on the coffee you use. For instance, preparing a Gesha as a milk-based beverage could minimise the more delicate floral flavour notes.

Angus Mackie is a barista trainer at ONA Coffee and the creator of Nucleus Coffee Tool’s Compass. 

“Milk-based coffee beverages shouldn’t be considered any less important than black coffee,” he tells me. “Different amounts of milk can result in different sensory experiences when drinking a milk-based beverage, as different volumes and textures of milk can change the sweetness of a drink.”

Angus explains that after he was diagnosed with tongue cancer a few years ago, more than half of his tongue was surgically removed – leading to significant damage to his taste receptors. He says that while he was training to regain more of his palate back, milk-based beverages were particularly useful for identifying certain flavour notes and aromas.

“Moreover, weighing milk is a useful practice when training baristas to improve their milk steaming and pouring skills, as well as their palates,” he adds.

Should more coffee shops be weighing milk?

Considering the various benefits that we’ve just listed, should more coffee shops start weighing milk?

“In Melbourne specifically, around 80% of drinks served in coffee shops are milk-based – typically flat whites and lattes,” Anthony explains. 

However, Kirk tells me that weighing milk is not a common practice in the country.

“Only around 5% of Australian coffee shops weigh milk, but I would love to see more of them doing it,” he says. 

He emphasises that weighing milk for each milk-based beverage is often not practical for many baristas, which could be the reason for low uptake. However, he adds that automated milk steaming and foaming systems could help to improve barista workflow if weighing milk is something they want to start doing.

“Some coffee shops, like Axil and ONA, use automatic milk foaming systems like Übermilk,” he says. “Although it may not be realistic to weigh milk for every beverage, automated systems can dispense predetermined amounts of milk.”

Hany Ezzat is a Sales and Guest Roaster Manager at ONA Coffee. He explains that the practice of weighing milk is more common in specialty coffee shops which serve more exclusive and high-end coffees.

“Coffee shops are more likely to weigh milk if they’re using single origin coffee roasted for espresso, or if they’re serving a reserve coffee,” he says. “If a customer is paying a more premium price then they should receive a more premium service, which includes baristas being more accurate and precise with coffee to milk ratios.”

Anthony agrees, saying: “Weighing milk helps to ensure consistency, as well as training baristas to understand how different amounts of microfoam affect milk-based beverages.”

Considering the impact on baristas and consumers

Although weighing milk-based beverages could significantly slow down workflow during busy rushes, baristas could instead carry out this practice during quieter periods. This way, they have more time to focus on how they need to steam the milk to reach the required weight.

Overall, Hany believes that weighing milk is advantageous for baristas.

“It’s a positive thing,” he says. “It allows them to understand more about how to prepare and serve high-quality beverages.

“Personally, I teach the baristas I work with that they should texture milk to one consistency so that every milk-based drink has between 0.75cm and 1cm of microfoam,” he adds. 

Hany explains that in his experience, preparing milk-based beverages (mainly of a similar size, such as cappuccino and a flat white) to a more consistent texture and weight means showing the full spectrum of each coffee’s flavours.

“For instance, a roaster may develop a roast profile so that when extracted as espresso, the coffee can be paired with around 120g of milk,” he tells me. “This means that baristas should steam the milk [with a target weight in mind].

“Milk with more microfoam will weigh less than milk with less foam,” he adds. “The amount of microfoam will also have a big impact on beverage texture.

“You can weigh 120g of milk for a 6oz (170ml) drink, but if the milk isn’t textured correctly, it can negatively affect the consumer experience,” Hany continues.

Ultimately, if the coffee to milk ratio is too overpowering, or the milk texture isn’t smooth enough, consumers could receive a lower-quality beverage. However, for the most part, if baristas are trained to steam and pour milk well, the majority of consumers will receive high-quality milk-based drinks.

Will we see this practice more in coffee shops and competitions over the next few years?

In general, all of the coffee professionals I spoke with believe that Anthony’s winning WBC performance will lead to more coffee shops – as well as other WBC competitors – weighing their milk-based beverages.

“Throughout the years, WBC competitors are starting to control more and more variables,” Anthony says. “I definitely see consistency in the weight of milk becoming more prominent moving forward.

“Although two different types of steamed milk may reach the same level in a cup, they could have completely different textures,” he adds. “If you weigh the beverage after you have poured the milk, however, it’s a useful indicator as to how much foam you have created.”

He tells me how weighing milk helped him to develop the milk course section of his 2022 WBC routine.

“I trained a lot using the same amount of milk and the same workflow,” he says. “The difference between each beverage I weighed was roughly 0.2g.”

Competitions like the WBC assess a variety of technical barista skills, including precision, accuracy, and consistency. In theory, this means serving more consistent drinks to competition judges – whether in weight, flavour, appearance, or any other factor – could lead to higher overall scores.

However, despite indications that the practice of weighing milk could become common, Angus believes it could take some time for coffee shops to start adopting it.

“Milk-based beverage tasting workshops could be a useful tool,” he says. “Many coffee shops hold black coffee cupping sessions, but milk-based beverages can have a different range of sensory experiences [for both baristas and consumers]. 

“Adding milk to coffee can emphasise different levels of sweetness,” he adds. 

In order to assist baristas to understand more about weighing milk-based beverages, Angus suggests a training exercise:

1. Prepare two milk-based drinks using the same espresso recipe and steam two jugs of milk to the same texture.
2. Pour each beverage, but with a 10g weight difference. Taste to compare how different weights affect the beverage.
3. Then, prepare two-milk based drinks using the same espresso recipe, but steam two jugs of milk to different textures.
4. Pour the same weight of milk in each drink. Taste to compare how different textures affect the beverage.

Although it may not be suitable for every coffee shop, there are clear benefits to weighing milk-based drinks for baristas, café owners, and consumers alike. Not only can waste be reduced, but overall beverage quality could also increase – an important consideration for WBC competitors, too.

However, whether or not we will see more coffee shops weighing milk-based beverages in the coming years remains to be seen. But with more and more coffee shops implementing automated milk foaming solutions into their businesses, it could become easier for baristas to start weighing their milk while also maintaining a good workflow.

Enjoyed this? Then read our guide to working with plant milks.

Photo credits: Hany Ezzat, World Coffee Events

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In his winning 2022 WBC performance, we saw Australian competitor Anthony Douglas use one of the latter for his milk course category. During his routine, Anthony described a process called cryodesiccation (which is similar to freeze drying) and explained that he processed his milk using this technique.

Anthony mentions that cryodesiccation helped to enhance the natural sweetness and creaminess of his milk, and ultimately created a higher-quality beverage and overall sensory experience.

So how exactly does this process work, and could it have an influence on the wider specialty coffee sector?

To find out, I spoke with two coffee professionals. Read on to find out what they had to say. 

You may also like our article introducing extract chilling in coffee.

Understanding the cryodesiccation process

Cryodesiccation (also known as freeze drying or lyophilisation) is essentially a low temperature dehydration process. It’s mainly used in food, beverage, and pharmaceutical industries to prolong shelf life, while still maintaining quality.

In fact, the vast majority of instant coffees are freeze dried. This helps to create a more convenient product; however, the process still preserves some of the coffee’s flavours and aromas.

Broadly speaking, there are four main stages to the cryodesiccation process: pretreatment, freezing, primary drying, and secondary drying. Overall, the process involves the application of low temperatures and various different pressures to remove moisture.

Anthony Douglas is the training manager at Axil Coffee Roasters, as well as the 2022 World Barista Champion. He explains how he produced cryodesiccated milk for his WBC routine.

“Firstly, we filled metal trays with milk and then froze them,” he says. “We then placed the trays inside a vacuum chamber.

“We lowered the pressure inside the chamber and applied gentle heat underneath the trays [over a 24-hour period],” he adds. “This causes water in the frozen milk to turn into a vapour, rather than a liquid, as it thaws, which leaves behind a powder-like substance. 

“Because the process uses lower temperatures, the milk still retains a lot of its natural flavours, which are then concentrated,” he continues. 

How does the process affect flavour and mouthfeel?

In his winning 2022 WBC routine, Anthony mentions that the cryodesiccated milk powder he created was concentrated by about 900 times. He explains that he then recombined 30g of the powder with 300g of fresh milk to “double the concentration of sugars, fats, and proteins”. 

Ultimately, this helped to make his milk course beverages taste much sweeter and gave them a creamier mouthfeel, as well as possibly helping to produce better-quality latte art because of the higher amount of proteins in the milk.

“We were already using high-quality milk from Riverina Fresh, but we were struggling to create  consistent-tasting milk course beverages,” Anthony explains. “This led us to try cryodesiccation.

“We chose to use this process in my WBC routine because it didn’t change the flavour of the milk – instead, it concentrated all of its desirable aspects, such as sweetness and creaminess,” he adds. 

“When combined with coffee – specifically the anaerobic natural Sidra variety from El Diviso in Colombia – it resulted in a sweet and lush milk-based drink which helped to enhance and balance the coffee’s flavours with certain qualities of the milk,” he continues.

Have similar processes been used at the WBC before?

Although no previous WBC competitors have used cryodesiccated ingredients in their routines before Anthony, some have used similar processes for milk.

It’s believed that Canadian competitor Ben Put was the first person to use such a process at the 2017 WBC, when he concentrated his milk using freeze distillation. Morgan Eckroth, who placed second at the 2022 WBC, also used freeze-distilled whole milk in their routine to further enhance the sweetness of the coffee they served.

Freeze distilling is somewhat similar to cryodesiccation. The process works by partially freezing a liquid and then removing some of the frozen segments to produce a more concentrated liquid. With milk, this means that it will taste sweeter, richer, and creamier as more of its water content is removed.

Anthony explains the differences between the two processes.

“Different compounds thaw at different rates, so when you create freeze-distilled milk, not all of the compounds will concentrate at an even rate,” he tells me. “In my experience, you also have to get the timings and temperature right to ensure you can thaw the milk at the same rate each time you carry out the process.

“However, with cryodesiccation, milk reduces it to a powder-like substance which is consistently concentrated every single time,” he adds. “This process also increases shelf life, so when you want to use the powder, you can combine it with fresh milk at the concentration which works best, which for us was 1.8 times concentrated.”

But these processes are not just used for milk – some competitors have also carried out similar techniques with other ingredients.

Hugh Kelly is the training manager and head of Research & Development at ONA Coffee. He is also a three-time Australian Barista Champion.

He tells me about the freeze drying method, and how he has incorporated this process in several of his WBC routines – and has even used it for espresso.

“I have used freeze-dried ice cream, lychee, and peach in some of my signature drinks over the years,” he explains. “The process has a significant impact on mouthfeel and flavour, but it also usually allows for fresher-tasting fruit notes compared to dried fruit notes, which are usually more caramelised.

“When freeze-dried ingredients are ground into a powder and mixed with wet ingredients, it creates a very consistent product, in terms of water and Brix content,” he adds. “It’s also very easy to infuse the powder into liquids.”

What factors do you need to consider when using cryodesiccated milk?

For Anthony, milk concentration is just as important as any other extraction variable.

“It’s an extra variable to consider alongside dose, yield, and total extraction time,” he says. “It gives you more freedom to express the flavours in coffee.”

As it is a relatively new process to specialty coffee, there are understandably many factors to take into account when using cryodesiccation.

“This technique is still new to us, so we are still finding our way around it,” Anthony says. “The most important thing is to not over-concentrate your milk, as this can overpower the flavours of the coffee.”

This is because the sweetness and richness of the milk becomes much more intense, which can mask more delicate flavour notes in certain coffees. Ultimately, the enhanced sweetness and creaminess of the milk still needs to complement whichever coffee you decide to use.

“The different concentrations of milk also allow you to explore different extraction styles,” he continues. “For example, cryodesiccated milk which is more concentrated can work better with espresso which is extracted using a higher coffee-water ratio.” 

For context, espresso is usually extracted at a 1:2 ratio – meaning one part coffee to two parts water.

When it comes to steaming cryodesiccated milk, Anthony says that the method is largely the same as preparing regular milk.

“However, the higher concentration of fats and proteins in the milk will improve the quality of microfoam, as well as how you experience the coffee’s flavours,” he says.

Although Anthony explains that he has only used cryodesiccation with whole milk, he believes that the process could be used with various different types of milk – including plant-based options.

Will we see this process more in competitions and coffee shops?

Firstly, it’s important to note that in order to create cryodesiccated milk, you certainly need to invest in costly equipment – which undoubtedly would also take up a significant amount of space. 

Ultimately, this means that for many coffee shops and World Coffee Championship competitors, cryodesiccation may not be a feasible option.

Hugh believes that although competitors might continue to use similar techniques as part of their routines, most coffee shops are unlikely to adopt these practices.

“Using concentrated milk makes more sense for competitors than it does for coffee shops because it creates more impact for every sip of coffee you drink,” he tells me. “But if you drink too much of it, it could be off-putting, so finding the right balance and intensity is key.”

He points that using freeze-dried milk could be a more accessible option for some coffee shops.

“However, the main issue could be having access to high-quality freeze-dried milk,” he says. “There are few freeze-dried milk powders which are specifically designed for coffee because many of them don’t have the right ratio of fats, sugars, and proteins.”

Innovation is an integral part of the WBC, and milk processing is also a part of this – it allows competitors to express different flavours and textures in coffee.

“Trying milk-based beverages in new ways can significantly improve the overall sensory experience, which can be a truly unique selling point for a coffee shop, or focus of a competitor’s routine,” Hugh concludes.

However, considering the time, space, and equipment required for processes like cryodessication, it’s unlikely that it will become a widespread change for coffee shops any time soon.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring the evolution of milk foaming technology in the coffee industry.

Photo credits: World Coffee Events, Melbourne International Coffee Expo, Hugh Kelly

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However, in recent years, there has been criticism over a lack of inclusivity and accessibility in these competitions. One of the issues related to these criticisms, but which is often overlooked, is the rule that competitors must use dairy in their routines.

Some argue that the unwritten ban on plant-based milks excludes certain competitors. The rule also acts as a barrier to further innovation – a characteristic which these competitions, particularly the WBC, are revered for by the specialty coffee industry.

To explore the case for allowing plant milks in the WCC (with a particular focus on the WBC) I spoke with three coffee professionals. Read on to find out more.

You may also like our article on what the future holds for plant milks and coffee.

Rules on using dairy in the World Coffee Championships

The 2021 WBC Official Rules and Regulations state that competitors must produce a “milk beverage” containing “one single shot of espresso… [and] steamed cow’s milk”. The rules also state that competitors can be provided with only “whole milk”.

Similarly, the 2021 WLAC Official Rules and Regulations state competitors “are required to use the milk provided by the WLAC”. This is also exclusively cow’s milk.

Jack Mockford is a barista at Gourmet Coffee Bar in Leicester, UK. He explains to me why he thinks the exclusive use of dairy became a rule.

“Mainly for traditional reasons,” he says. “It’s been assumed that the best way to make a milk-based coffee beverage is with whole milk because of its high-quality microfoam – particularly for cappuccinos.”

However, things haven’t always been so straightforward. Cristian Tellez is the Director of Coffee at Ditta Artigianale in Toronto, Canada. He is also a brand ambassador for Myracle Kitchen, the North American arm of the plant-based Rebel Kitchen brand. 

Cristian competed in the 2019 Canadian Barista Championships using oat milk instead of dairy. He tells me about when he believes the requirement to use dairy was added.

“The rules generally assumed that people would use cow’s milk, but it wasn’t stated as an official rule until an UAE competitor allegedly used camel’s milk,” Cristian says. “The judges didn’t know how to assess this, so the cow’s milk rule was instated.”

However, while camel’s milk may be a less popular alternative to cow’s milk in the specialty coffee industry, plant-based milks are considerably more established. The global non-dairy market is expected to be worth US $40.6 billion by 2026.

“In the signature beverage round of the WBC, there’s so much freedom for competitors to express themselves,” Jack tells me. “So why should they be restricted to using a particular type of milk in the milk-based round?”

Why are plant-based milks excluded?

Josh Tarlo is the Head of Coffee at Kiss The Hippo in London, and the 2018 UK Barista Champion. He emphasises the importance of distinguishing between the WBC and the WLAC regarding the rule on dairy.

“It’s important to separate the WBC and the WLAC on this issue as it’s for different reasons,” Josh says. “However, both are most likely based on a lack of will by decision makers – maybe because they’re taking on a controversial subject.”

He elaborates on how changing existing rules, or instating new ones, could be an arduous task for World Coffee Events (WCE) and the SCA, who organise the WCC events.

“There would be a need to revise score sheets and rules, and this task may be too difficult or time consuming,” he says. “This is down to the volunteer nature of the committees who make these changes.”

Jack, meanwhile, believes that funding plays a significant role in maintaining the current rules on using dairy.

“There might be some financial incentive to not make changes because of funding from certain sponsors,” he tells me. “Usually a dairy company sponsors the events, which may mean there’s resistance to changing the rules.”

Jack highlights how allowing plant milks could also lead to further rule changes.

“If plant milks are accepted in the competitions, WCE would also have to address which animal milks can be used. If plant milks aren’t allowed, WCE can strictly stick with a specific type of cow’s milk.”

Cristian adds: “Dairy comes directly from cows, so it’s essentially one ingredient, whereas plant-based milks consist of several ingredients.

“It can become complicated because plant milks are effectively a blend of different ingredients,” he says. 

Issues with excluding non-dairy milks

There are a number of issues with excluding plant milks from WCC events.

First and foremost, Jack says: “Vegan or lactose intolerant barista competitors can’t experience their coffees to the same extent as other competitors using dairy.

“If they’re not able to compete using milk that they can drink, it puts them at a fundamental disadvantage.”

Cristian, meanwhile, explains how he has often had to put aside his personal values to take part in coffee competitions.

“For every year I have competed, I have had a certain level of moral flexibility. Since I started working in coffee in 2005, I have had to serve dairy, but I had to accept that.

“But for me, being vegan is an ethical choice that I stick to because it’s important to me.”

When performing at the WBC, competitors are encouraged to demonstrate their personalities, as well as their coffee skills and knowledge. For competitors who don’t consume dairy, the obligation to use cow’s milk arguably doesn’t allow them to fully express themselves.

However, the issues related to dairy are much more widespread.

“The dairy industry contributes 3.4% of the world’s carbon emissions. Thirteen of the largest global dairy farms contribute more carbon emissions than all of the UK,” Josh tells me. 

In addition, dairy cows often live much shorter lives – a decrease of around 14 or 15 years on the average lifespan of 20 years.

Challenging the status quo

In 2019, Cristian decided to challenge the dairy rule when he competed in the Canadian Barista Championships.

“I served my milk-based drinks last, which no competitor usually does,” he says. “I was highlighting that the coffee industry talks so much about sustainability, but few of us are talking about the impacts of mass-scale animal agriculture on the planet.”

Even though the Vegetarian Society claims that only 2% to 3% of the UK population is vegan, research from The Guardian reports that over a third of people in the country are interested in transitioning to a plant-based diet. Since 2015, Google searches for “vegan” have doubled in the US; in other countries, such as Australia, France, and Spain, they have tripled.

Clearly the interest in plant milks is growing – including in the coffee industry – so why the unwritten ban on them?

“When I used oat milk, I assumed it was an automatic disqualification because usually if you blatantly violate the rules, you can be disqualified,” Cristian explains. “I actually received zero for my milk-based round, so there was no chance of me winning the competition.”

He adds that while he mostly received positive feedback for his decision – which culminated in an online petition to change the WBC rules – there was some backlash.

“Some people thought I was being selfish by taking a place in the competition knowing I wouldn’t have a chance of winning,” he says. “I understand this point of view, but at the same time, we need to provoke change in the industry.”

Josh agrees with Cristian’s perspective on pushing for positive change.

“These competitions are where we showcase not only coffee as it already is, but as we wish it to be,” he says. “We push coffee forward, we innovate, and we change it.

“If we want to align these competitions with the values of today’s coffee industry, then one of the first steps is allowing alternative milks in competitions.”

Jack points out that WBC competitors often experiment with cow’s milk in their routines, particularly for the signature beverage round.

“Competitors are allowed to select their own cow’s milk to achieve different characteristics and levels of creaminess, as well as being able to treat milk prior to the competition by using different temperatures,” he tells me. “In that respect, the competition isn’t a level playing field.”

Will the rules change?

Despite the fact that dairy is considered to be more “traditional”, plant milks have been around for centuries. Soy milk dates back to 14th-century China, while almond milk first showed up in medieval European cookbooks. 

However, they have historically not been as popular as dairy.

Research suggests that this is changing. According to World Coffee Portal, some 60% of people reported trying a plant milk in their coffee in 2019. Alongside this, some coffee shops are even using oat milk by default, including Blue Bottle and Onyx Coffee Lab.

So is it time for a change to the WBC rules? All three interviewees unanimously agree that it is.

Jack says: “It wouldn’t be progressive for the SCA to not reflect changes in specialty coffee culture. Plant-based milks are a mainstay in coffee shops now.

“By using plant milks, you’re not necessarily putting yourself at an advantage. Whole milk steams impeccably and you usually get the best textures when using it.”

Josh, meanwhile, believes a rule change is necessary to create a more inclusive competition environment.

“If we exclude people who have a moral objection or dietary inability to consume dairy, we lose out on their knowledge and skills,” he says.

As for how to change the rules, Jack has some suggestions.

“Any plant-based milks which are commercially available as barista-formulated products could be acceptable because they are part of wider specialty coffee culture,” he says. “The SCA and WCE can write up an approved list of plant milks that represent the scope of products available on the market.”

However, he points out that it may be necessary to differentiate between the WBC and WLAC when changing the rules to include plant milks.

“Because the WLAC scoring system is based on aesthetics, there is perhaps more of an argument to be made for having a separate plant milk competition.”

Ultimately, any changes to the exclusive use of dairy in the WBC is down to the SCA and WCE. But considering the enormous popularity of plant-based milks, it’s safe to assume that the competitions may take on a more inclusive approach in the future.

“The first time I ever competed I had to serve sugar with my coffee,” Cristian concludes. “The rules change and we decide this as an industry. We’re professionals, we can handle changes in competitions.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether the World Barista Championship needs to change.

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As one of these many forms of coffee, ready to drink (RTD) coffee is rapidly becoming popular with consumers. For many, its appeal lies in its convenience: consumers can quickly stop somewhere and easily grab a pre-prepared RTD coffee out of a cooler or off of a shelf, and then be on their way.

However, as RTD coffee has become more popular, the segment has evolved to accommodate the needs of the modern customer. It’s no surprise, then, that plant-based RTD coffee beverages are becoming more popular with consumers around the world. 

I spoke to two individuals whose brands focus on dairy-free options to learn more about the RTD space, the different options available to consumers, and the future of this growing category. Read on to learn more.

You might also like our article on six consumer trends around the world and how café owners can adapt to them.

How has the RTD segment grown and changed?

Over the past few years, the RTD coffee category has undergone rapid and explosive growth, which is only set to continue. According to research from Mordor Intelligence, the segment is projected to grow by some 7.69% every year between 2021 and 2026. 

This growth has been fuelled by consumers looking for convenience, the emergence of cold coffee trends, and in some cases, a focus on healthier alternatives. These trends are themselves all driven by consumers from younger generations: Generation Z and millennials.

Additionally, over the past two years, the Covid-19 pandemic has pushed more consumers to order coffee online as hospitality businesses around the world shuttered. This meant there was a huge spike in at-home coffee consumption (specifically in 2020) which has in turn contributed to the growth of the RTD space.  

RTD coffees are often found in bottles and cans, and sold in many different forms. In the past few years, RTD brands have adapted to roll out new products that meet growing consumer demand, which includes cold brew, milk-based coffees, hard coffees, and plant-based options. 

Plant milk & the RTD space

Jarrett McGovern is the co-founder of Rise Brewing Company, a RTD coffee company based in New York City, US. He tells me how he’s seen first-hand that the marketplace is changing and growing to accommodate plant-based options.

“We have seen a huge shift towards plant-based foods and beverages,” he says. “Consumers are starting to realise that plant-based products can be healthier and taste better.”

He says that the carbon footprint of plant-based milks is generally much lower, which means they’re more environmentally friendly – something which also appeals to many millennial and Generation Z consumers.

“In many cases, they even have a longer shelf life for the consumer and celebrate more sustainable farming practices,” he adds.

Abby Sutton is the marketing manager at First Press Coffee, a Melbourne, Australia-based company with a strong focus on RTD coffee. She echoes Jarrett’s sentiments on plant-based products.

“We first launched our plant based iced coffees in early 2020 in response to growing demand for a healthier and indulgent alternative,” she explains.

Why do consumers choose to go plant-based?

Both interviewees note that one of the key motivations for opting for plant-based beverages is health and wellbeing.

Over the last few years, we’ve seen a growing uptake of veganism and flexitarian diets across many major coffee consuming markets.

In the US, a 2019 survey saw as many as 6% of all consumers say they were vegan, which was a staggering 500% increase in just five years. Meanwhile, UK charity Viva! says that 45% of the vegans it surveyed chose the lifestyle for health reasons.

However, this isn’t the only motivation for choosing plant-based milk.

“Consumers choose dairy-free for a variety of reasons,” Jarrett says. “There is a clean refreshing taste to plant-based products, and the nutritional value is often better than that of dairy products.”

Jarrett also notes that Rise’s dairy-free products are totally cholesterol-free, as well as being environmentally responsible. 

“When you choose a dairy-free product, you also promote the farmers that grow the plant-based alternative,” he says. “Often, their practices create a healthier earth and introduce fewer toxins into the land.”

Abby, however, notes that diet is a key change, but also that people don’t necessarily have to be vegan to choose plant milks. 

“The rise of the flexitarian has encouraged people to try new ways of enjoying milk-based drinks,” she says. “These can be beneficial to those with dietary requirements, as well as those seeking to thread a little lighter on the environment.”

So, what options are there for plant-based RTD beverages?

As recently as just 10 or 15 years ago, soy milk was pretty much the only prominent alternative to dairy. However, in the 2010s, this changed dramatically, and plenty of new plant-based milks entered the market.

“Gone are the days when a café could stock just dairy and soy,” Abby explains. “Furthermore, the amount of choice in the market has definitely fuelled a discussion around sustainability and normalised dietary requirements.”

More and more brands and coffee shops now offer a range of plant-based milk options, recognising that there can be flavour differentiation under the dairy-free umbrella. Alongside mainstays such as oat, almond, and soy, we’ve seen coconut, cashew, pea, and even potato enter the market in recent years. 

This is true for RTD brands just as it is for coffee shops. Within the segment, there seems to be a widespread desire to innovate and offer new milks and “flavours”.

In line with this, Jarrett tells me that Rise’s has seen a great amount of success come from investing and innovating in the breadth of its product range.

“All Rise products are dairy-free,” he says. “We offer nitro black cold brew coffee, as well as a series of lattes, including original oat milk, vanilla, and chocolate. We also offer our ‘London Fog’, a tea latte and a line of organic oat milks.”

Historically, RTD products have also been sweetened or flavoured to make them more appealing to everyday consumers who have less knowledge of the coffee sector. However, using plant-based milks can often achieve this without adding sugar. 

Almond milk, for instance, adds a pleasant nutty sweetness to an RTD beverage, but allows the brand to maintain its “no added sugar” label – appealing to health-conscious consumers in the process.

Like Jarrett, Abby believes it’s important to continue to innovate and offer customers a range of options as the demand for both RTD coffee and plant-based milk grows.

“Our business began with a line of black cold drip coffee beverages designed to provide clean, natural energy,” she says. “It has since grown to include three Australian almond milk iced coffees (original, no added sugar, and mocha) and an Australian oat milk iced coffee.”

By introducing plant-based RTD coffee options and continually expanding upon existing product lines with new milks and flavours, brands are offering consumers both choice and flexibility. 

Looking to the future

With the RTD market segment and plant-based milk consumption both poised to continue growing, the future for the segment is bright. Both consumers and brands are seeing that dairy-free options aren’t just better for the environment, but also that they actually taste as good if not better than some of their dairy counterparts.

Abby says she’s excited by this shift in consumer tastes. “People are seeking better, local and more sustainable alternatives,” she says. “Consumers want to minimise their environmental impact but still enjoy themselves and indulge.”

Jarrett agrees, saying there’s plenty of space for the innovation to continue. “In the future, we’re going to see even more amazing dairy-free options, and find new plants, fruits, and nuts that not only taste amazing, but have incredible health benefits, too.”

Plant-based RTD coffee beverages provide a rapidly-growing amount of choice and flexibility to a base of consumers who want convenient ways to drink dairy-free coffee beverages. 

As such, supermarkets and convenience stores are gradually giving more space to these plant-based products, with new brands entering the marketplace on a regular basis.

“Ultimately, we are not just selling a product, we are selling a belief. We create beverages for people who have a similar outlook on life,” Jarrett concludes. “We get really excited about creating the best tasting beverage we can using organic plant-based ingredients, and we are attracted to other brands that do the same.”

Enjoyed this? Then try our article exploring RTD milk based coffee.

Photo credits: First Press Coffee, Rise Brewing Company, Pexels

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However, growing concerns over the environmental and ethical impact of dairy production have led many to seek out alternatives in recent years. This has led to an astronomic rise in the popularity of plant-based milks, including soy, almond, oat, and coconut.

Many expect to see tremendous growth in the market, meaning one thing: people are talking about what the future holds for the plant milk sector.

To answer this question and look at why plant milks are so popular, I spoke with two experts. Read on to find out what they said.

You may also like our guide on choosing a non-dairy milk for specialty coffee.

A brief history of plant milk

While plant milks are a relatively new addition to the coffee shop menu, they have been around for hundreds of years.

One of the earliest recorded examples is almond milk, which has actually been mentioned in medieval cookbooks found across Europe. Many believe it became popular after the publication of a Christian treatise that forbade dairy consumption on certain days of the week.

This prompted a search for dairy-free alternatives, leading to the discovery of various nut milks, including almond, pistachio, and hazelnut.

Historically, almond milk was made by soaking ground almonds in water and straining through a cloth. However, because of the cost of foreign imports, it was an ingredient enjoyed predominantly by the wealthy, promoted as a nutritious and safe alternative to cow’s milk.

Beyond Europe, we can trace the early origins of soy milk back to 14th-century China. In particular, a tofu broth, known as doufujiang, is even believed to have been an early predecessor. However, it wasn’t until much later that it appeared outside of China, spreading to nearby Vietnam and Japan by the late 1700s.

Soy milk was first commercially produced over 100 years later in 1917. By the 1980s, it was available across the US, Europe, Asia, and Australia. US sales peaked at US $1.2 billion in 2008, before a steep decline caused by rumours about soy milk’s impact on human health and the environment.

Since the late 2000s, global almond milk sales have grown exponentially. Estimates put the current global market value at more than US $6 billion, and it is expected to double by 2025. 

Beyond almond and soy milk, another third early plant milk can be traced back hundreds of years: coconut milk. Coconut milk has been used in Southeast Asian, African, and Indian cooking for centuries.

Today, it is used in an increasingly varied number of ways, including as a dairy substitute in coffee shops. A rise in consumer demand for healthy ingredients has seen it grow in sales around the world, while its high mineral and vitamin content make it a good nutritional substitute.

Gen Z, Oatly, and the rise of barista formula milks

Despite a steady rise throughout the early 21st century, the plant milk sector has only experienced meteoric growth in the past few years.

Analysis by the Plant Based Foods Association found that sales of plant-based milks grew 5% between 2019 and 2020, altogether accounting for 14% of all milk sales in the US. And while cow’s milk remains dominant, its sales have largely stagnated, rising by just 0.1% during the same period.

Lauren Visagie is the UK Marketing Manager for Califia Farms, a plant-based beverage company headquartered in California. She tells me that it is the younger generations who are leading this charge towards plant milk.

“In general, Generation Z are buying less dairy and switching to plant-based foods,” Lauren tells me. “This is because young people are increasingly concerned about their health, ethics, and the environment.”

While there is no definitive answer, many publications use the year 1997 at the point at which Generation Z begins. This means that Generation Z, consumers are largely 24 or younger at the time of writing. 

According to recent data from market research firm Mintel, one-third of 16 to 24 year olds in the UK drink plant milks. The same research states that the number of people buying cow’s milk in the same age group fell by 6% (from 79% to 73%) between 2018 and 2019.

Camilla Barnard is the co-founder and Marketing Director of Rude Health, a UK-based dairy-free drinks and cereals company.

“More than half of dairy-alternative shoppers buy into the category because of its environmentally friendly credentials,” she says. “The rise of the internet and social media has made this information much easier to find.”

Thanks to this surge in popularity, a number of plant milk companies have seen substantial growth. Today, perhaps one of the most well-known is Swedish brand Oatly. 

Founded in 1994, Oatly witnessed a dramatic spike in sales after entering the US market in 2016. Since then, their oat milk range has become a staple in the coffee sector, and is popular among baristas and consumers alike.

Between 2017 and 2018, Oatly’s revenues increased by US $15 million. In the UK, demand has previously been so high that consumers have experienced countrywide shortages.

Furthermore, in February 2021, Oatly aired a 30-second advertisement at Super Bowl LV. Entertainment publication Variety estimates that the network hosting the Super Bowl, CBS, charges approximately US $5.5 million for this slot.

“The total oat drink category is valued at £90 million,” Lauren says. “Oat barista drinks now make up a third of all sales.” 

Oatly’s rise in popularity has even paved the way for specialist barista plant milks. As plant milks don’t contain the same level of fat found in cow’s milk, these formulas often contain added stabilisers and fats to produce higher quality and more “workable” microfoam.

What are the challenges?

Despite this extraordinary growth in the plant milk sector, there have also been some challenges.

As plant milks have “boomed” relatively quickly, it has taken some time for the regulatory landscape to catch up. For instance, it wasn’t until 2017 that a European Court of Justice ruling decreed that EU companies producing plant-based products couldn’t use terms such as “milk”, “cheese”, or “cream” for marketing purposes. 

This means that these phrases, typically associated with dairy products, couldn’t legally appear on the packaging of dairy alternatives. Instead, they reserved them solely for products derived from animals.

The EU stated that motives behind the ruling were to prevent confusion for consumers and to protect “the unique and natural blend of micro and macro nutrients of milk and dairy products [which] cannot be matched by any plant-based products”. 

Lauren says that she thinks the ruling has a negative impact on those looking to purchase plant-based products.

“It might cause confusion among consumers looking to make informed decisions around plant-based replacements for dairy,” she says. “Terms such as ‘oat milk’ have become ingrained in modern culture.”

More recently, new rules that the European Parliament has voted to pass (referred to as Amendment 171) may prohibit plant-based companies from using similar packaging to dairy products, such as milk cartons and yoghurt pots. It would also restrict marketing materials from claiming plant milks were an “alternative to” dairy products.

“It presents practical challenges for the industry,” Lauren explains. “It has rebranding marketing implications for both brands, like Califia Farms, and retailers.”

Another significant challenge is a broader increase in concerns over the environmental impact of plant milk production. Despite the fact that plant milks are advertised as an eco-friendly alternative to dairy, research has shown that almond milk in particular requires high volumes of water to produce.

For just a single litre, almond milk production uses more than 370 litres of water, compared to just 28 and 48 for soy and oat respectively. Coupled with the fact that 80% of almonds are grown in drought-ridden California, this has led many to question its long-term sustainability.

Camilla tells me that brands like Rude Health are working hard to work around these concerns. “We only use Mediterranean almonds because they’re grown in bee-friendly, smaller yields where rain is plentiful,” she explains.

“The yields are lower, making the price a bit higher, but we think it’s well worth the extra cost.”

What does the future hold for plant-based milks?

Plant milk sales have grown year-on-year for a while, and there are ultimately no signs that this growth will slow down any time soon.

However, it’s important to note that confidence in the market is heavily linked to the coffee industry. A significant percentage of all plant milks are used by coffee shops.

But they seem to be popular in coffee shops all the same; in March 2019, Starbucks rolled out the introduction of Elmhurst’s oat milk across their US stores. The brand even claimed recently that an increase in requests for plant milk has been the most notable shift in consumption across their branches.

Geographical differentiation is also a big point for brands to consider. “The US is ahead of the UK when it comes to plant-based milks,” Lauren explains. “Some 60% of the population buys plant milks compared to 35.6% in the UK.

“We anticipate the high growth to continue, and [expect] more households in the UK to start buying plant-based products in the next five to ten years.”

And while plant milk consumption is also linked to the increasing number of vegans around the world, even consumers who don’t identify as vegan are purchasing dairy alternatives. Studies show that 90% of plant-based milk drinkers also consume dairy in some capacity.

Lauren says: “With the rise in the number of ‘flexitarians’ (those with a diet centred on plants who occasionally eat meat), we are also seeing more hybrid dairy and plant-based drinks emerge, as consumers look to reap the benefits of both categories.

“Brands are responding to this demand with increasingly innovative, functional, and great tasting products, with even more innovation predicted,” she adds.

Camilla, however, believes that it will be interest in the variety of flavours offered by plant milks will help drive the market further.

She says: “We predict that more people will continue to join the trend over the next five to ten years.

“We’re already seeing more awareness and education about what flavours to use for different occasions, whether it’s almond milk in lattes, coconut milk in smoothies, or cashew milk in tea.”

Growth in the plant-based milk market has been meteoric over the last few years. Despite legislative challenges and concerns about the environment, it seems like this won’t slow down any time soon.

Furthermore, with the popularity of plant milk inherently linked to the ever-growing specialty coffee sector, it seems like demand within the industry will only continue.

So, next time you visit a coffee shop and order a latte or a cappuccino, why not consider asking for plant milk? Even if you love dairy, you might find you enjoy the change.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether or not we need to reduce dairy consumption in the coffee sector.

Photo credits: Rude Health, Lucy & Lentils

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As a result, the beverage no longer looks “fresh” and appealing to the customer. This often means the barista has to make another, which wastes coffee, milk, and service time. But why does this happen? And how can baristas stop it?

To learn more, I spoke to Sam Pinkerton of Clive Coffee and Professor Thom Huppertz. Read on to find out what they said.

You might also like Selecting The Best Milk For Coffee Foam & Latte Art

The science behind quality microfoam

To make the best possible microfoam, baristas start with cold milk, as the proteins within are fully intact. You should use a pitcher that is a size bigger than the beverage you are preparing (for example, a 6oz/170ml drink requires an 8oz/220ml pitcher).

This provides more room for aeration as you swirl the milk. Additionally, baristas often recommend making sure that the pitcher is between one-third and one-half full to allow for enough space when steaming.

Swirling is a crucial part of creating microfoam. It allows the barista more control when incorporating air and even heating the milk, as it breaks down the larger bubbles into smaller ones. This improves the consistency of the foam’s texture. Experts recommend reaching full aeration before 38°C/100°F, otherwise it will be more difficult to break down the larger bubbles.

During steaming, the jets of air from the wand actually act as makeshift whisks. These add more air throughout the milk, generating more bubbles.

If the tip of the steam wand is too far above the surface of the milk, its larger bursts of air will lead to larger bubbles, and an inconsistent texture. Conversely, if the tip of the wand is too far below the surface of the milk, it will just heat up the milk, rather than creating any foam or bubbles.

As the barista steams and swirls the milk, it’s important to also make sure the steam wand is in the right position to improve texture consistency.

Thom Huppertz is a professor of Dairy Science and Technology at Wageningen University in the Netherlands. “When air or steam gets introduced into the milk, the air bubbles that are formed rapidly become covered by the milk proteins,” he explains. “The surface covering of the milk provides the bubbles with the required stability.”

Per 240ml serving, cow’s milk contains 3.4g of protein and 3.9g of fat, which are both important for creating smooth and stable microfoam. Some 80% of the protein content in milk is made up of “caseins”, while the remaining 20% consists of whey proteins.

Both of these compounds are found on the surface of fat globules. One “side” of each protein is hydrophobic, meaning it repels water and attracts air. In comparison, the other side is hydrophilic, meaning that it clings to the water in the milk.

Ultimately, to create a smooth, stable, and consistent microfoam, there should be an even balance of air in the layer.

Why does disintegration happen?

However, no matter how stable or consistent your microfoam is, eventually all steamed milk will begin to disintegrate and bubble.

“All foams are inherently unstable,” Thom explains. “It’s only the timescale at which instability occurs that differs from material to material. For milk foams, several forms of instability can be observed.”

Sam Pinkerton is the Head of Education at Clive Coffee in Portland, Oregon. She says: “Once you steam milk, assuming it’s well-textured and the foam you’ve created is evenly incorporated, you’re working against time and gravity. 

“As the drink sits, the milk begins to drain from the foam, causing the lighter air bubbles to rise.”

Air is less dense than both milk and water, so it will gradually float to the surface, while the liquids in the foam will sink. 

Thom adds: “First, liquid will drain from the foam under the influence of gravity.

“However, over time, we also see that large air bubbles become larger, and small air bubbles disappear; this process, called Ostwald ripening, is difficult to prevent.”

Ostwald ripening is, very simply, the process by which bubbles in a foam increase in size. This occurs when the larger bubbles “pull” the smaller bubbles towards them by way of pressure differences. The smaller bubble then joins the larger bubble to increase its total area, effectively “consuming” it.

“These small bubbles combine into larger bubbles until the air pressure inside the bubble exceeds the strength of proteins holding it in, and the bubble pops,” Thom says. “This can happen to even the best microfoam.”

Altogether, Ostwald ripening means fewer bubbles in the foam over time. This causes the layer to eventually disintegrate, requiring the barista to steam a fresh pitcher of milk all over again.

What else affects foam disintegration?

Beyond the stability of the foam and its battle against time and gravity, there are a number of other factors which cause it to disintegrate.

“Competition with other compounds on the surface of the milk may prevent stable surface layers from being formed,” Thom says.

One such compound is fat. Milk fat globules typically range from 0.1 to 10 micrometres in size. The consistency of the liquid (in terms of milk fat globules) will depend on how the milk has been processed.

During processing, homogenised milk is forced through a small nozzle. This breaks up the fat globules and evenly disperses them throughout the liquid. In comparison, non-homogenised milk contains larger, more uneven fat globules.

“In the region of 10 to 30°C, unstable foams made from non-homogenised milk can form as the [uneven] fat globules can be damaged in some foaming processes,” Thom explains. “For homogenised milk, this is far less likely to happen.

“Milk fat, however, also plays a very important role. It provides the milk foam with the right sensory characteristics, the flavour and mouthfeel that consumers love.”

This is most evident in skimmed milk. The lack of fats allows the proteins to fully encase the bubbles, meaning vastly improved stability when the foam is created. However, this stability means that the milk is often too rigid for pouring good or precise latte art.

Thom also says it’s important to keep in mind the difference between dairy and plant milks when steaming. “For plant-based milk alternatives, different foaming properties are typically observed,” he says. “Some are very low in protein and it is therefore difficult to form good foams.”

Almond and oat milk, for instance, have considerably lower protein levels. However, the addition of fats through a barista “version” of these milks supports the creation of creamier, more desirable textures. In contrast, soy milk has a similar level of protein to dairy, meaning it can form a more stable microfoam. 

“[Plant milks] often contain natural or added surface-active compounds that compete with the proteins and interfere with foam formation,” Thom adds. “Often, larger air bubbles and quicker destabilisation are observed [more commonly] in plant-based alternatives than in cow’s milk.”

Making your foam more stable

When foam begins to disintegrate, bubbles usually form on the part of the beverage where the espresso and milk touch. Pouring latte art that takes up the majority of the surface in the cup (such as a simple, large heart design, for example) will help to reduce the amount of bubbles present, and help your foam remain more stable for longer.

Before pouring latte art, Sam recommends adding a small amount of milk to the espresso. He says you can gently swirl it for full incorporation – almost like the bloom phase when brewing filter coffee. This creates a stable base for your microfoam, and may slow down the disintegration process.

“Depending on the milk you are steaming, and the quality of foam you build, the time in which it takes for your foam to disintegrate will differ,” Sam explains. “You’ll usually see this take effect after just a few minutes.”

Research has found that, on average, bubbles begin to appear two to three minutes after the beverage has been poured. Serving all beverages before this point is best. It will mean that customers receive drinks that not only look appealing, but also have the best possible texture.

The roast profile of the coffee can also affect how quickly the microfoam disintegrates. Darker roasts contain more carbon dioxide, which is highly soluble in water; as a result, the CO2 diffuses quickly through foam and increases the rate at which bubbles converge. 

Additionally, fresher coffee just a few days past the roast date has higher levels of CO2, which means it produces even more bubbles and consequently causes the foam to disintegrate more quickly. For more stable microfoam, use coffee roasted a week or so ago. This will mean it has had an appropriate amount of time to degas.

While your microfoam will always disintegrate, there are of course ways to mitigate and delay the process. Ultimately, the best thing to do is create the smoothest microfoam in the first place, made stable with the smallest possible bubbles.

To achieve this, baristas should focus on their steaming technique and look for improvements there. However, it’s important to also consider the types of milk and coffee that you use, and keep an eye on how these affect the speed of disintegration.

Enjoyed this? You might also like A Guide To Working With Plant Milks

Photo credits: Clive Coffee, Tasmin Grant, Neil Soque

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Drinking cow’s milk is a deeply ingrained part of many cultures around the world, but it is recognised by many to be more and more problematic with every year that passes. Cattle are estimated to contribute to a staggering 11% of all global greenhouse gas emissions produced by human activity, and each litre of cow’s milk is estimated to “cost” more than 1,000 litres of water.

As climate change is continually reducing the amount of usable land for coffee cultivation, these figures are becoming increasingly difficult to ignore. To learn more about this topic, I spoke with two experts who work in the rapidly-growing plant milk sector. Read on to find out what they said.

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How Much Dairy Do We Use?

The global dairy industry is worth around US $400 billion. Around the world, there are estimated to be more than 274 million cows that produce milk for human consumption. In the UK alone, more than 1.3 billion litres of cow’s milk are produced every month. The biggest global producers of cow’s milk are the EU, India, and the US. 

For more than 100 years, since the First World War, the consumption of cow’s milk has been broadly encouraged in many cultures. The high levels of protein in dairy products were considered to be a great way to avoid malnutrition in children when rationing was commonplace.

This continued through the Second World War and the first half of the 20th century. In 1946, the US government provided free cow’s milk with every school meal, asserting the idea that consuming dairy was essential for healthy growth, especially for children.

While some 90% of adults in western countries can drink cow’s milk with no real impact on their health, in reality, more than two-thirds of adults around the world are lactose intolerant in some capacity. 

Furthermore, the idea that dairy products are a reliable source of calcium has also been contested; in Japan and China, countries where dairy consumption is comparatively low, diseases and illnesses related to calcium deficiency are actually less prevalent than they are in the EU.

Altogether, despite the cultural and economic significance of global dairy consumption, it has decreased in recent years. In 1975, it was estimated that the average American consumed some 130 litres of cow’s milk a year. Just 42 years later in 2017, this figure had fallen by almost 50%, with average consumption per capita down to 66 litres per annum. This has been reflected in a fall in sales figures, which have dropped by 15% since 2012 in the US alone.

Problems With The Dairy Industry

The recent change in consumer attitudes towards dairy consumption can be attributed to a number of reasons, but perhaps the most notable is the dairy sector’s impact on the environment.

For every litre of dairy milk produced, it is estimated that some 3.2kg of carbon emissions are produced. In comparison with rice milk (one of the more carbon emission-heavy plant milks) that’s almost three times as much CO2 (1.2kg).

A report from the Institute for Agricultural and Trade Policy found that the 13 largest global dairy companies produced more than 338 million tonnes of greenhouse gases in 2017.

Beyond carbon emissions, an average of 9 sq m of land is needed to produce a litre of cow’s milk, compared to just 0.8 sq m for oat milk. 

Jim Richards is the CEO of Milkadamia, a plant-based milk company that uses only macadamia nuts. The company started selling exclusively to cafés in 2015, but soon expanded into retail. 

Jim notes that beyond the impact of additional greenhouse gases, dairy farming also produces considerable volumes of raw waste.

“Dairy farming [also] produces significantly more raw sewage than it does milk,” he says. “Dairy farms’ open raw-sewage lagoons dot the countryside, regularly fouling lakes and streams.”

He adds that another concern is animal welfare. “The life expectancy for dairy cows shrinks from 15 to 25 years to just four or five years,” Jim tells me. “For plant-based milk, animals are not intensely exploited [in this way].”

The Growth Of Plant-Based Milks

It’s clear that the global dairy industry has a huge carbon footprint, and rising consumer concerns about animal wellbeing and ethics only add further pressure.

Toni Petersson is the CEO of Oatly. “We’re at a moment when everyone needs to find a role in changing the way we live for the good of the planet,” he says.

“One proven way we can change the way we live is by decreasing the amount of animal products we consume.” The rising interest in this approach has been reflected by Oatly’s sales, which increased by a staggering US $68 million from 2017 to 2018. 

This hasn’t just been reflected in Oatly, either. Plant milk sales have grown all across the world. Global sales have increased by 61% since 2012, and the worldwide plant-based market is now projected to be worth more than US $41 billion by 2025. 

Much of this increase is attributed to the influence of younger consumers; non-dairy alternatives are most popular among people aged 35 and under, who make up more than 25% of the market share.

It’s estimated that in the UK, 26% of women use plant milk, while 33% of those aged 16 to 24 state they prefer non-dairy alternatives. Understandably, the two main reasons they cite for the switch away from dairy are health and environmental factors.

Is The Coffee Industry Ready To Make A Change?

Despite its widespread use of cow’s milk, plant milks are rapidly becoming more popular in the coffee sector. 

“Cafés have been leaders in offering non-dairy choices,” Jim tells me. “Many people first try non-dairy in a café setting. 

“We launched Milkadamia in the café industry; we know [cafés] are incubators of trends. They have their fingers firmly on the cultural pulse. They are in direct daily contact with consumers, and respond early to these changing needs.”

This trend isn’t just exclusive to smaller specialty coffee chains and independent cafés, either. It is becoming more popular among broader consumer market segments.

In 2019, more than 10% of all drinks in the UK’s popular Pret A Manger coffee chain were ordered with plant milk. This year alone, Starbucks introduced oat milk into more than 1,300 stores worldwide.

Toni adds that the coffee shop also provides a great platform to talk about the impact of dairy consumption and improve consumer awareness.

“We partnered in the past with… coffee shops in the UK to raise awareness [about the impact of dairy] by discounting Oatly drinks by 80%. This is the same percentage of CO2 [emissions] that consumers save by switching to Oatly from cow’s milk.

“Our coffee partners are the ones who ask us the toughest questions about sustainability and ethics and business; this demonstrates just how committed they are to making a positive change.”

The Practical Side: Choosing The Right Plant Milk

Ultimately, however, dairy consumption for many consumers will come down to the flavours in their cup. This means that it’s important to choose a plant-based option that works with coffee. This should a flavour that isn’t too strong, and one that is also easy for baristas to work with. 

“We heard that most non-dairy options didn’t foam properly, were too thin, had a [strong] flavour, or [didn’t work] acidic environments,” Toni says. “Effectively, baristas were looking for something that just worked like cow’s milk.

“Coffee professionals put so much care and attention into sourcing and crafting the best coffee, so after all that work, you don’t want to combine it with something that’s not right.”

Plant-based milks contain significantly less fat and protein than cow’s milk. This means that when steamed, the foam is much less stable; additionally, many plant milks are more prone to curdling when they come into contact with coffee.

As a result, most major plant milk suppliers – especially those working with coffee shops – provide a barista range of products. These often include additional fats and acidity regulators to mimic the texture and flavour of cow’s milk. 

“We made sure our barista formula could also withstand a good acidic cup of coffee and hold its foam for any incredible latte art,” Toni adds. 

Similarly, Jim says: “By focusing on the ratio and blend of proteins and fats, Milkadamia’s Latte-Da produces an amazing foam and a deliciously creamy taste profile.”

Even though the coffee industry is taking steps to reduce its levels of dairy consumption, and the plant milk market is growing tremendously quickly, the sheer size of the dairy sector is problematic for climate change.

With concerns about climate change high on the international political agenda, changes may well become more drastic in the months and years to come. “What would it be like if plant-based dairy was the default option at every coffee shop and cow’s milk was the alternative?” Toni asks. “What if we just changed the status quo?”

Next time you visit a café, if you’re planning on ordering a cappuccino or a latte, consider asking for non-dairy milk. You might find that you enjoy it just as much, or more. If you do, you can remind yourself that you’re taking a small but important step towards minimising the impact the coffee sector has on the environment.

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Photo credits: Alice Schoolcraft, Milkadamia, Oatly

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In light of this rise in consumption, it’s important that baristas are aware of the best way to work with any given non-dairy milk. By developing an understanding of the product, they will then be able to create high-quality, consistent beverages for customers.

This article is a guide on how to work with some of the most popular non-dairy alternative milks.

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What Are The Most Popular Alternative Milks?

Sales of non-dairy milks reached US $2.11 billion in the US in 2017. Almond had the biggest share of the market with 64%, while soy came in at 13% and coconut made up 12%.

More coffee drinkers are taking an interest in plant milks. David Jiscoot, Marketing Director for Alpro UK and Ireland, elaborates. “Demand for plant-based coffees out of home has exploded over the past 12 months, with more than half (50.3%) of coffee drinkers now claiming to drink plant-based coffees out of home. Of these people, 54% are drinking plant-based coffees at least once a week.” 

In 2019, US sales of oat milk surpassed soy for the first time. Oat milk was first manufactured in Sweden in the early 1990s, but it has seen a surge in popularity over the last few years. Today, some coffee shops are even using oat milk by default and charging more for dairy, such as Onyx Coffee Lab in Arkansas.

David says that cafés need to be aware of the appeal of non-dairy alternatives. “In order to cater to this demand, coffee shops should ensure that they have a range of plant-based drinks specifically formulated for use in coffee on offer,” he says.

Peter Jones is the General Manager of Trident Booksellers and Café in Boulder, Colorado. 

“We serve soy, coconut, almond, unsweetened almond, and oat milk. Oat and almond are the most popular,” he says.

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How To Steam Plant Milks

Because plant and animal milks have a number of chemical differences, they have to be prepared differently in coffee shops. Firstly, Peter says it’s important that baristas use plant milks that are designed specifically for barista use. “You need to use the ‘barista’ series of whatever brand you are using, as they [contain] stabilisers (dipotassium phosphate)”.

These stabilisers ensure that the milks don’t split and curdle when they come into contact with the acids in coffee. This means that both the texture and the visual appeal of your beverage are preserved when the milk is steamed.

It’s also important to note that milks with a higher fat content will have a more stable texture after steaming. “Rice milk was very popular back in the early 2000s before almond milk’s rise in popularity, but it does not have any added fat,” Peter says. “Oat milk has canola oil added, which helps with the foaming and texture.”

Soy

• Thanks to its high protein content, soy milk can be aerated (stretched) very well. This is because the protein molecules in soy milk surround air bubbles, making it easier to create foam.
• Soy milk steams almost twice as quickly as cow’s milk. This is because it contains more acidity regulators and stabilisers. Try to not incorporate too much air when you start steaming, otherwise the milk may become too foamy.
• It is temperature resistant, so even steaming as high as 65°C will produce a microfoam that works well for latte art.

Almond

• Almond milk is lower in protein than soy milk, so it doesn’t steam and foam as well. It also has a watery consistency that creates a thinner layer of microfoam.
• It struggles at higher temperatures and is smoothest at around 55°C, so using a thermometer might help.
• Incorporating more air at the beginning of steaming – just a few seconds more than cow’s milk – will improve the texture.

Coconut

• Although it is high in fat, coconut milk is low in protein. Creating microfoam can therefore be tricky. However, its higher sugar levels can mean it often has a thicker texture when steamed.
• Coconut milk can become very thick and stiff at temperatures around and above 65°C, so be careful when you heat it. This is because the proteins inside the milk denature, and as there are so few of them, the foam breaks down more quickly.

Oat

• Oat milk is also low in protein, meaning that it usually needs a longer steaming period than cow’s milk to create stable microfoam.
• It performs well at most temperatures, even up to 65°C.
• Similarly to almond milk, adding more air when you start steaming will produce a consistent, smooth texture.

Pouring Techniques For Latte Art

Pouring latte art with non-dairy milks can be difficult. This is because their unique chemical compositions affect the stability of the microfoam once they are steamed.

Peter explains: “Almond and oat perform equally as well for latte art. [They] are basically the same ingredients – water, cane sugar, almonds/oats, dipotassium phosphate, sunflower lecithin, gellan gum, and salt.

“Coconut milk does not have a stabiliser in it and it’s thicker, so it sits on top of the espresso. The same is true for soy.”

Soy

• The microfoam is very stable in soy milk, meaning you have more time to pour latte art.
• As soy milk foams very easily, it can quickly become too foamy. Bang and swirl the pitcher more than you would with other milks to create a consistent texture. Pouring with too much foam can create messy, uncontrollable latte art.

Oat

• Pouring harder and faster with oat milk will result in cleaner-looking latte art.
• Allow oat milk to rest for around 30 to 45 seconds, before you add it. This will result in more evenly textured milk. 

Almond

• Almond milk loses its microfoam quite quickly, so pour as soon as you can.
• Once steamed, almond milk has an inconsistent texture with lots of surface bubbles. Make sure to bang and swirl the pitcher – although not as much as you would with soy – and the texture will become more smooth.
• Almond milk’s watery texture means it flows quite quickly. Make sure you pour gently for greater control over your latte art.

Coconut

• Coconut milk can contain quite large bubbles once steamed, but plenty of banging and swirling will turn these bubbles into a finer microfoam.
• If steamed properly, your coconut milk will have a glossy appearance. This is a sign of well-textured milk.

How Do Alternative Milks Affect Taste & Texture?

The range of ingredients in plant milks mean that they will significantly affect the overall flavour and mouthfeel of coffee, and even chai, hot chocolate, and matcha.

“There are many factors that will influence the taste and texture of the final product you serve to customers when working with plant-based alternatives,” David explains. “This includes – but isn’t limited to – the temperature you steam at, the intensity of the coffee being used, and anything you may add to the drink.”

Soy milk provides a creamy consistency and can provide a longer-lasting aftertaste. Its flavour can be quite bean-like and nutty. Pairing soy with medium roasts won’t overpower the coffee.

Thanks to its thin layer of microfoam, almond milk has a thin texture that can result in a less substantial mouthfeel. It also often has a lingering, bitter aftertaste that can mask the flavour of your coffee.

Coconut milk can have a similar effect, masking the more delicate flavour notes in your coffee. However, it has a much heavier mouthfeel than almond milk. David recommends pairing coconut milk with stronger flavours, as they complement each other well. “Alpro Coconut For Professionals, for example, works well with dark, chocolatey roasts, cold drinks such as cold brew, or hot chocolate.”

Oat milk’s “light, delicate flavour”, however, “really puts the coffee first and brings the best out of lighter roasts”. It also has a creamy texture and a neutral aftertaste that allows the coffee’s characteristics to shine through. 

Oat milk is often likened to dairy in terms of taste and texture, so if a customer is looking for an alternative that is most similar to cow’s milk, it is a good option. However, it’s important to understand that most plant milks shouldn’t be treated as a perfect substitute. None of them have the same flavour and texture as dairy milks – and as a result, they create a different experience for the customer.

“All of the plant-based milks have added sugar, so they are sweeter than cow’s milk. That is something to keep in mind, especially if customers are buying the plant milk based on its perceived health benefits. That is why we carry a special unsweetened almond milk with no sugar,” Peter says.

If a customer seems confused, it might help to explain various characteristics of the alternative milks you have in stock. This will allow them to make an informed decision.

“[It’s] about personal preference and what the customer is looking for. Each of our For Professionals drinks have been carefully crafted to ensure a flavour which complements a broad range of coffee types,” David says.

Using a wide range of non-dairy milks in your café will mean you can cater to a variety of tastes and lifestyles. And it won’t just increase customer interest and satisfaction – it’s a great way to hone your skills as a barista. So, next time you reach for the almond or soy milk, consider trying another alternative. You might be surprised by the results.

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Photo credits: Neil Soque, Marco Verc, Peter Jones 

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Es kopi susu’s popularity in Jakarta is interesting. Jakarta has a population of over 10 million, with some of the world’s worst traffic, meaning that getting across the city often takes longer than expected. Ride-sharing apps such as Grab and Gojek have gained popularity as an alternative way to travel, but both also offer food delivery services, allowing consumers to buy food and drink from the palm of their hand – including es kopi susu.

So just why is es kopi susu so popular in Jakarta, and why does it have such a unique relationship with these ride-sharing platforms? Read on to find out.

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Es kopi’s sudden growth is often credited to popular South Jakarta coffee chain, Toko Kopi Tuku, who began selling it some time in the early 2010s.

Research conducted by Indonesian coffee company Toffin shows that 6 out of 10 millennial and Generation Z customers say they “love” es kopi susu. Not only is the beverage generally cheaper than other milk-based drinks, it also comes in a wide range of flavours.

Why Is Online Delivery For Es Kopi Susu So Popular?

In Jakarta, whether you’re downtown or in a quaint residential neighborhood, you’re never too far from an es kopi susu kiosk. Many of these small businesses don’t have espresso machines, so stick to selling es kopi made with cold brew or tubruk. Furthermore, many of them are operated from people’s homes, meaning that delivery is a more viable option.

Indah Febriyyani, the owner of MAU Kopi & Minuman, tells me that ride-sharing apps helped her to sell es kopi to her neighbors at times when normal coffee shops would not be open. In situations like these, the apps take on the logistical costs for home-based businesses, meaning that they can enter the market more easily and operate with greater flexibility.

According to VP Corporate Affairs Food & Merchant at Gojek, Rosel Lavina, 96% of the merchants for the company’s GoFood services are small to medium businesses. In 2018 and 2019, coffee was one of the four most popular food and beverage products delivered, accounting for 16 million orders in the same period. 

Es kopi delivery is not just limited to the smaller companies, however. Bigger Indonesian coffee chains, such as Kopi Kulo and Janji Jiwa, have opened shops with little or no seating in busy areas, and dedicated them almost entirely to takeaway and delivery orders. Just a few years ago, it would have seemed counterintuitive to open a coffee shop without offering quality service and customer experience, but today, people want es kopi without the hassle.

In short, online delivery apps provide a way for both small and large businesses to thrive in big, busy cities. They allow consumers to order drinks like es kopi from miles away without leaving their seat.

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The Local Twist

There is no single correct way to prepare es kopi susu. In fact, one of the most popular es kopi recipes includes gula aren, an Indonesian brown sugar, which gives the drink a caramel flavour. Some kiosks mix the coffee with avocado, Marie Regal biscuits (or other rich tea-style biscuits), ginger, and even cendol, a South East Asian dessert made with rice flour jelly and coconut milk. 

Es kopi has also started to emerge in the Indonesian specialty coffee market. A number of specialty coffee shops now offer a “specialty es kopi”, which is usually made with 100% arabica coffee and a homemade caramel sauce. 

Delivered At Scale

When Jakarta went into lockdown in April 2020, a number of local businesses adapted by selling pre-mixed one-litre bottles of es kopi susu. The idea was initially popularised by Toko Kopi Tuku, the chain that many believe started the es kopi craze in the first place. After just three months, the business had sold more than 53,000 pre-mixed es kopi bottles over the internet.

Just a few weeks later, a number of venture capitalists – including Facebook co-founder Eduardo Saverin – invested US $109 million into another major es kopi chain, Kopi Kenangan. It’s also believed that a number of these investors come from a background in tech, perhaps because of the unique relationship that es kopi has with delivery and ride-sharing apps.

There might be no single “right” way of making es kopi susu, but one thing is for sure: this beverage is successful because it’s simple to make and easy to buy.

In Jakarta, it has taken both consumers and coffee businesses alike by storm. And considering the success of chains that produce es kopi susu, it could soon be sold in coffee shops elsewhere around the world.

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Photo credits: Wirasathya Darmaja, Michelle Anindya, Seniman Coffee Studio

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