Origin Guides https://perfectdailygrind.com/category/origins/ Coffee News: from Seed to Cup Thu, 16 Mar 2023 08:30:34 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://perfectdailygrind.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/cropped-pdg-icon-32x32.png Origin Guides https://perfectdailygrind.com/category/origins/ 32 32 Will Nepal produce more specialty coffee in the future? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2023/03/will-nepal-produce-more-specialty-coffee/ Wed, 15 Mar 2023 06:31:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=102806 Production of Nepalese coffee.

The post Will Nepal produce more specialty coffee in the future? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Nepal is a small landlocked country in South Asia, which sits between India and Tibet. The country’s landscape is incredibly diverse, and is home to eight of the world’s ten largest mountains, including Mount Everest – the highest point on earth.

Primarily a tea-growing and drinking nation, coffee production is still relatively new to Nepal. According to the Nepalese government’s National Tea and Coffee Development Board (NTCDB), it was only between the 1980s and 1990s that coffee was grown on a commercial scale in the country.

The NTCDB reports that in the 2021/22 harvest season, Nepal produced 354.9 tonnes of coffee. While this is a decline from the record 530 tonnes produced in 2018/19, production volumes have been increasing in recent years.

The country grows high-quality arabica – and there is clear potential that specialty coffee production could increase, too.

Bhavi Patel is a dairy technologist and food and travel writer, who has been writing extensively about the global coffee industry for some years now.

In this article, she explores the Nepalese coffee sector, the challenges that local farmers face, and whether the country can grow more specialty coffee. 

You may also like our article on micro lots & Monsoon Malabar: India’s future as a coffee origin.

Red coffee cherries on a branch.

When was coffee introduced to Nepal?

Similar to India and other producing countries, coffee is not native to Nepal. It’s believed that in 1938, nomadic hermit Hira Giri brought coffee seeds from Burma (now known as Myanmar) back to Nepal.

Hira Giri is said to have planted the seeds in Aapchaur – a hill village in the Gulmi District. However, it took another thirty years for coffee production to start increasing in the country when the Nepalese government imported coffee seeds from India in 1968. 

Throughout the following decade, small-scale coffee production spread to other regions of Nepal, including Palpa, Syangja, Kaski, and Baglung.

Commercial coffee production in Nepal

By the mid-1980s, however, farmers started to grow coffee on a commercial scale. Between 1983 and 1984, the Nepal Coffee Company (NeCCo) was established in Manigram in the Rupandehi district. This meant local farmers could collectively process and dry mill their coffees for export, which helped to boost production volumes.

Throughout the 1990s and early 2000s, more and more farmers started to grow coffee. In response, Nepal’s Ministry of Agriculture launched the Coffee Development Programme, which provided technical and financial support to local producers.

Today, the International Coffee Organisation estimates that across 42 districts in the country, there are over 32,500 households involved in coffee production. Moreover, research from Specialty Coffee Nepal, a non-profit organisation which promotes Nepalese specialty coffee culture, says that some 45% of coffee farmers are women. 

The Kavrepalanchok district in eastern Nepal is the largest coffee-producing region in the country – spanning 273ha and producing more than 32 tonnes of coffee. The second-largest coffee-growing district is the Gulmi district in western Nepal, which spans 231ha and produces 27 tonnes of coffee.

Common varieties and processing techniques

Nepal’s climate and landscape make it ideal for growing arabica – mostly because of its high altitudes. In fact, many industry professionals say only arabica grows in Nepal.

Surya Dura is the founder and Managing Director at Lake City Coffee in Pokhara, Nepal.

“About 80% of the coffee produced in Nepal can be categorised as specialty-grade coffee,” he says. “In the 2022/23 harvest season, coffee production is expected to increase to about 400 tonnes.”

The most common varieties found in Nepal are Bourbon, Pacamara, Typica, Caturra, and Catimor – certainly an indication of high-quality coffee.

Most farmers use washed processing methods, however, more producers are experimenting with natural and honey processing techniques. In recent years, anaerobic natural fermentation has started to become more popular, too.

Generally speaking, Nepalese coffee has unique floral and chocolate flavour notes, with some distinct nuttier flavours. The biggest importers of the country’s coffee are Germany, Japan, the US, South Korea, and the Netherlands.

A woman drinks coffee from a street vendor in Nepal.

How do people drink coffee in Nepal?

Historically, Nepal is a tea-drinking country. However, coffee consumption has been steadily growing for some years.

“Nepalese baristas working in other countries help to promote homegrown coffee,” says a representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal. “More and more coffee events are also happening in the country, which also helps to bring people from across the value chain together, as well as drawing more attention to Nepalese coffee.”

In line with this, there are more specialty coffee roasters, coffee shops, and education facilities opening in Nepal. A representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal tells me that some of the most notable specialty coffee roasters in the country include Mount Brew Coffee, Nya No Specialty Coffee, Brewshala Coffee, and many more.

Deepak Paudel is a renowned coffee professional in Nepal. He is also the founder of the Pokhara Coffee Roastery.

“Because it is often easier and quicker to learn barista skills than any other profession in the coffee industry, more and more younger people show interest in the position,” he says. “Some of them are also moving to other countries to broaden their skills so they can return to Nepal after a few years and potentially open their own coffee shops.”

Deepak adds that many Nepalese baristas work in Middle Eastern countries or in Australia, where specialty coffee culture is particularly popular.

As in many other countries, milk-based drinks – such as cappuccinos and lattes – are popular among consumers in Nepal.

However, in recent years, more and more Nepalese coffee shops are using manual pour over brewers. As part of this, we’re seeing more baristas push to get formal training to improve coffee quality, as well as roasters offering classes and educational courses.

Furthermore, coffee consumers in the country are also showing more interest in preparing café-quality drinks at home – with some taking part in coffee workshops. Companies like Brewing House distribute and supply equipment to coffee businesses and consumers alike.

A Nepalese coffee producer inspects green coffee cherries.

Challenges in the Nepalese coffee sector

Although figures indicate a steady increase in Nepal’s coffee production volumes in the coming years, farmers in the country still face a number of challenges.

As with many other producing countries, Nepalese coffee farmers are dealing with the effects of climate change and a shortage of workers.

Global warming poses several concerning issues for Nepal’s coffee sector. For instance, unpredictable rainfall and frost often damage cherries and blossoms on branches, which can heavily affect quality and yields.

Moreover, the impact of climate change also increases coffee plants’ vulnerabilities to pests and diseases – in particular the white stem borer (Xylotrechus quadripes). 

The Gulmi district underwent a white stem borer epidemic in 2016, which severely affected coffee producers in the region. In some cases, farmers in Nepal have reported up to 60% loss in annual yields because of the insect, which lays its eggs in the branches of coffee plants. Eventually, the plant stops producing cherries and dies.

Even more concerning are the long term effects of climate change on Nepal. Research from Kunming University suggests that Nepal will see a significant shift in its agroclimatic zones over the next few decades. In turn, this could result in up to 72% of the country’s coffee-growing areas becoming unsuitable by 2050.

Labour issues

Many origin countries are currently experiencing labour shortages in their agricultural sectors, including for coffee.

The representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal explains that in Nepal, there are three major reasons for labour issues:

  • Low wages
  • Lack of formal training and education for farming best practices
  • Waning interest in working in agriculture

“Another issue in the Nepalese coffee sector is workers moving to other countries for employment,” Surya says. 

Fluctuations in market prices also lead to further difficulties, which is why some farmers choose to join co-operatives. Co-ops provide a number of benefits to their members, including improving access to several markets, formal training programmes, and farming inputs.

Tulasi Raj Dhital is the founder and chairman at the Central Coffee Co-operative Union Ltd. (CCCU) in Kathmandu, Nepal. 

“The prices that farmers receive for cherry and parchment coffee are fixed by the NTCDB in coordination with other stakeholders, including co-operatives,” he explains. “This means that members know beforehand what they will be paid.

“This helps to ensure co-operative members get a fair price for their coffee,” he adds. “We also help producers understand new farming techniques that help to improve yields and plant health.”

Green coffee cherries growing on a plant.

How could the Nepalese coffee sector grow over the next decade?

Ultimately, if coffee production is to become more sustainable in Nepal, farmers need to know how to adapt to the effects of climate change by implementing more climate-smart agricultural practices. Intercropping coffee with other plants, such as bananas, could also be beneficial as they can provide much-needed shade cover.

“If we could plant more coffee using proper farming techniques, as well as planting new varieties, then Nepalese coffee production could grow on a much larger scale in the next decade,” Surya explains. “Improving knowledge, planting a wider range of varieties, and encouraging more young people to take part in coffee production are the three main ways we can grow the country’s specialty coffee sector.

“Specialty coffee production has just started in Nepal, and it’s still yet to gain a big market, but it could happen soon – Nepalese coffee has a lot of potential,” he adds.

The representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal tells me that measures to provide more formal training are already underway.

“Some agricultural institutions in the country have already started including a coffee-focused syllabus as part of their curriculum,” they say. “Farmers need to have proper training, as well as more awareness about planting, harvesting, and processing coffee in the best possible ways.”

Tulasi believes that the country’s government also needs to provide more support to coffee farmers.

“Strengthening and improving logistical and transport facilities would be immensely helpful to coffee farmers,” he tells me.

What about driving consumption?

When it comes to education, Deepak says that it also plays a key role. He explains that he is working hard to attract the attention of the Specialty Coffee Association, which he believes would help baristas and roasters, as well as coffee farmers, to gain better access to different training programmes and events.

In terms of coffee competitions, Deepak believes that Nepal could one day host its own National Barista Championship or AeroPress Championship.

“Nepal already has national champions, but they’re representing other countries,” he tells me. “There are many local coffee competitions taking place, so it shouldn’t be too long before we reach the world stage.”

Starbucks sign in Lukla, Nepal.

It’s safe to say that there’s plenty of potential for Nepal to scale its coffee production. And with more people drinking specialty coffee than ever, the future certainly looks promising.

However, at the same time, it’s also clear that for both production and consumption to grow sustainably, Nepal’s coffee sector needs more support – especially when it comes to adapting to climate change.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the white stem borer: a threat to the Nepalese coffee industry?

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Will Nepal produce more specialty coffee in the future? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
How is specialty coffee produced in Liberia? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2023/02/how-is-coffee-produced-in-liberia/ Tue, 14 Feb 2023 06:32:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=102323 Liberia is a West African country which borders Sierra Leone, Guinea, and Cote d’Ivoire, as well as the Atlantic Ocean. The country is the oldest republic in Africa, and declared its independence in 1847 – which was internationally recognised in 1862. According to Index Mundi, Liberia’s coffee production peaked at 209,000 60kg bags in 1985. […]

The post How is specialty coffee produced in Liberia? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Liberia is a West African country which borders Sierra Leone, Guinea, and Cote d’Ivoire, as well as the Atlantic Ocean. The country is the oldest republic in Africa, and declared its independence in 1847 – which was internationally recognised in 1862.

According to Index Mundi, Liberia’s coffee production peaked at 209,000 60kg bags in 1985. But in the years since, coffee production has dropped considerably for a number of complex reasons. As part of this decline, more farmers are growing more profitable cash crops instead, such as cocoa and natural rubber.

However, when it comes to its coffee production, Liberia is perhaps best known for Coffea liberica: a coffee species that produces large cherries. In part, this helps to enhance the sweetness of liberica, as well as prolonging its aftertaste. In recent years, these qualities have helped to increase liberica’s presence in the specialty coffee sector.

To learn more about whether Liberia’s coffee sector can grow in the coming years, I spoke to two local experts. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on Coffea liberica.

A historic photograph of a coffee farm in Liberia.

A history of coffee in Liberia

In order to understand the Liberian coffee sector, we first need to take a look at the country’s complex history.

Indigenous people have been living in West Africa for millennia, including in Liberia. Archaeologists have found clear evidence that human activity dates back to the Lower Paleolithic period in the region.

However, Liberia’s population increased significantly in the early 19th century. Under the guidance of the American Colonisation Society, former slaves in the US migrated (albeit some of this was forced) to Africa. 

The organisation, which was founded in 1816, was designed to encourage liberated slaves to leave the US – but mainly for prejudiced and discriminatory reasons. Understandably, many African Americans strongly opposed the organisation, however, others believed that migrating out of the US could result in them facing less social and legal oppression.

Many former slaves who migrated (whether willing or unwilling) settled in Liberia. In 1848, the country elected Joseph Jenkins Roberts as its first president, but it took another 14 years to globally recognise Liberia as an independent state.

However, there was clear division between US migrants and indigenous Liberian communities, such as the Kru and Grebo people. This was for a number of complex reasons, including establishing plantations and forcing indigenous people to work as slaves.

As a result of forced labour, as well as receiving significant investment from the US, Liberia’s exports began to increase. While most of these exports were rubber, the country also traded small volumes of coffee.

Following a military coup in 1980 and an insurrection in 1989, however, the country entered decades of civil unrest and conflict. As well as the devastating impact on the country’s coffee sector, thousands of people died.

A brief history of Coffea liberica

Although Liberia mostly grows robusta, it is arguably more well-known for another coffee species: liberica.

According to the 2022 research paper The re-emergence of Liberica coffee as a major crop plant, liberica is indigenous to most of the tropical regions in West and Central Africa

It’s believed that after growing wild for centuries, liberica seeds were disseminated from Ghana, Liberia, and Sierra Leone in the 1870s for wider commercial coffee production. In turn, several Southeast Asian countries started to grow liberica instead of arabica, which was under threat because of coffee leaf rust outbreaks at the time.

The paper also states that between 1880 and 1900, global production volumes of liberica were similar to that of arabica in some countries. This was mostly because liberica is a robust, high-yielding plant which can grow at low elevations and produce large cherries – which made it favourable among farmers.

However, liberica’s popularity proved to be short-lived. Following concerns over poor quality, there was a significant drop in demand for liberica. This is was mostly related to the large size of the cherries, which made it difficult to process them.

A coffee farmer removes seeds from a coffee cherry.

Understanding coffee production in Liberia

Robert Kollie is the Board Chair at Green Future Agro Inc. in Liberia.

“Coffee producers in Liberia grow robusta and liberica,” he says. 

Robusta mostly grows in central and northern Liberia. Some of the biggest coffee-producing regions include Nimba, Lofa, Bong, Grand Cape Mount, River Gee, and Margibi.

“At our co-operative, we sell seedlings and planting materials to farmers,” Robert explains. “We also provide technical support to farmers, and if a producer wants to manage their own farm or start a coffee business, we help them to estimate costs.”

However, because of years of conflict, many farmers abandoned their coffee farms.

In an attempt to revitalise the country’s coffee sector, the International Trade Centre (ITC) helped to disseminate some 4,400 seedlings to farmers. However, it’s clear that more work needs to be done.

Tyler Papula is the co-founder and CEO at Liberica Coffee Company in Liberia. He also works in partnership with Save More Kids as a Campaign and Project Co-ordinator, as well as with the SMK Agricultural Co-operative. The latter helps to provide agricultural training to farmers, as well as assisting with farm rehabilitation and infrastructure improvements, with the aim of increasing coffee quality and quantity.

He tells me that it’s common to find coffee growing wild in forests in Liberia – especially liberica. However, it can be anywhere from difficult to impossible to harvest the cherries because the plants grow so tall.

When it comes to coffee processing, Robert explains that there is a significant gap in technical knowledge and access to resources.

“There are only a very small number of processing facilities in Liberia, but even they aren’t well equipped,” he says. “Most of our farmers send their coffee to the Ivory Coast or sometimes Guinea.”

A coffee farm worker holds red and yellow coffee cherries in their hands.

How is coffee processed and traded in Liberia?

After harvesting, almost all cherry is left to dry in the sun on patios. Following this, some farmers then export their cherry to the Ivory Coast, where it will be dry milled.

Robert tells me that Green Future Agro is working to enable more farmers to dry mill their own coffee, thereby retaining more value.

“After a training session we attended in Togo, we imported a coffee milling machine which can process dried cherry,” he says. “We plan on buying the machine so that we can better support our farmers.

“The farmers will pay a small fee at the end of every month so that we can process their coffee,” he adds.

Prior to the First Liberian Civil War, the Liberian Produce Marketing Corporation (LPMC) was responsible for the country’s agriculture sector, including coffee. The organisation handled a number of tasks, such as providing producers with farming inputs, carrying out quality control checks, inspecting farms, and managing exports of coffee.

However, in the years since the Second Liberian Civil War, the LPMC has struggled to regain full control of coffee exports. In turn, some farmers in Liberia cross the border over to Cote d’Ivoire or Guinea to sell their dried cherry.

Other producers sell their dried cherry to agents, who then transport the coffee to the Ivory Coast, Guinea, or Sierra Leone, where it is sold. Ultimately, this means most of the coffee produced in Liberia isn’t consumed domestically. 

A Liberian coffee vendor sits above a busy street.

Does Liberia roast and consume coffee?

Robert tells me that there are no real commercial roasters in Liberia.

“We want to change this,” he says. “We try to encourage farmers to taste their own coffee.

“As part of this, the ITC held a workshop on how to operate a roaster and coffee shop,” he adds.

The majority of coffee consumed in Liberia is imported from neighbouring countries. And while there are no coffee shops, some hotels and restaurants serve coffee. For the most part, people drink instant coffee, including Nescafé.

“We plan to open our own coffee shop,” Robert says. “This means Liberian farmers will be able to taste their own coffee.”

A coffee farmer tills soil on a farm.

Addressing challenges

Tyler says that many of the issues which Liberian coffee farmers face are complex.

“The country’s coffee sector is somewhat disorganised,” he says. “Moreover, people don’t see Liberian coffee as being high quality.

“The biggest challenge is changing the mindset of producers,” he adds. “Some farmers are excited at the prospect of improving coffee quality and yields, but others are still hesitant.”

Moreover, there is a distinct lack of access to financial support for many coffee farmers, which means it’s difficult to acquire farming inputs like fertilisers. Ultimately, until access to resources and financial support improve, coffee quality and yields can’t increase.

Improving access to resources and support

“There is little support from the government,” Tyler explains. “This makes coffee production very difficult – farmers need access to loans, as well as more co-operatives providing seedlings to them.

“There also needs to be improvements to Liberia’s overall infrastructure,” he adds. “This way, we can encourage more entrepreneurship and mitigate corruption as well.”

For instance, the road infrastructure in some producing areas is poor, which means farmers can’t transport their coffee to processing facilities or to the capital city of Monrovia for export.

And while interest in liberica from the specialty coffee sector has increased recently – notably as a result of 2021 World Barista Championship finalist Hugh Kelly’s routine – production volumes are still too low to meet rising demand.

Robert believes that the way forward is to encourage farmers to add more value to their coffee – mainly through processing and roasting.

“For farmers, processing coffee themselves, and then roasting and tasting it, will allow them to be more engaged in growing coffee,” he says. “However, first and foremost, we need to provide high-quality farming inputs and seedlings.”

A coffee farmer picks cherries from a branch of a coffee plant.

Liberia’s history is deeply complex, and the country’s coffee farmers continue to face a number of challenges. Ultimately, if things are to improve, access to financial support, infrastructure, and resources need to increase considerably.

“We have lots of land available for coffee production,” Robert concludes. “There are a lot of mountainous regions which are suitable for growing high-quality coffee, but a support system for farmers is seriously lacking.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on coffee production in Sierra Leone.

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post How is specialty coffee produced in Liberia? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Can coffee production become more important for Togo? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/12/coffee-production-in-togo/ Tue, 20 Dec 2022 06:27:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=101264 Togo (also known as the Togolese Republic) is a small country located in the Gulf of Guinea, West Africa. The country is essentially a narrow strip of land with a relatively short coastline, and shares its borders with Ghana, Benin, and Burkina Faso.  Despite its small size (approximately 57,000km2), Togo has a diverse climate. While […]

The post Can coffee production become more important for Togo? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Togo (also known as the Togolese Republic) is a small country located in the Gulf of Guinea, West Africa. The country is essentially a narrow strip of land with a relatively short coastline, and shares its borders with Ghana, Benin, and Burkina Faso. 

Despite its small size (approximately 57,000km2), Togo has a diverse climate. While the northern part of the country is more dry and arid, central Togo is home to many plateaus and mountainous regions which are suitable for coffee production.

Like many other West African countries, Togo’s economy is significantly dependent on agriculture – with coffee, cotton, and cocoa being the major cash crops. Cotton is by far the country’s biggest export, while coffee accounts for around 5% of its export revenue. 

Sadly, a substantial lack of investment in the Togolese coffee sector has forced many farmers to abandon production altogether. In turn, many Togolese coffee plants are becoming older and less productive.

To learn more about Togo’s coffee sector, and the challenges which producers face, I spoke with two local professionals. Read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article exploring coffee production in Sierra Leone.

A Togolese farmer dries cherries on patios.

A brief overview of coffee production in Togo

Compared to other coffee-producing countries in Africa, Togo has a relatively short history of coffee production.

It’s believed that coffee was first cultivated in the country during the 1920s, when the country was under French colonial rule.

For the first few decades, the country’s coffee sector was controlled by several foreign exporters who purchased coffee directly from producers. However, after the formation of the Togo Office of Agricultural Products (OPAT) in 1964, the Togolese government started to oversee and manage production.

According to the International Coffee Organisation (ICO), OPAT was largely responsible for marketing coffee to international markets and setting annual domestic prices for coffee, while domestic marketing was managed by private sector stakeholders. Under this model, former exporters became coffee buyers.

During the 1980s, as per figures from the ICO, coffee production in Togo reached an average of around 260,000 60kg bags per year – a figure that has since steadily decreased for a number of reasons. In the early 1990s, according to the ICO, low coffee prices and less productive farms and plantations led to market liberalisation. Ultimately, this resulted in a number of radical reforms in Togolese coffee production – which included more simplified quality control measures.

Amuzu Koffi Mensah is an operations manager at Café Kloto, a roaster which sources coffee from the Togolese highlands. He tells me that coffee is the country’s second-largest export crop.

“More than 40,000 households in the country work in coffee production,” he says. “The major producing areas are in the southwest of the country in the Agou, Kloto, Danyi, Amou-Okposo plateau, and Wawa regions.”

Today, Togo mainly grows robusta – most of which is grown by smallholder farmers who also produce cocoa. For many years, the country’s robusta was highly sought-after thanks to its high quality, but over time, demand has steadily decreased.

Prior to 2000, the total acreage of Togo’s coffee production was 40,000ha, but this has since halved. Amuzu explains that many coffee trees in the country are very old and have become incapable of producing high yields.

In 2017, the ICO reported that Togo produced 6.9 million tonnes of coffee. However, by 2020, this volume had plummeted to 2.4 million tonnes, representing a drop of nearly 35% over a three-year period.

Many Togolese producers grow an old robusta variety which is locally referred to as “Niaouli”. It’s believed that this robusta variety was first cultivated under colonial rule in the 1920s. 

“After harvesting and drying, coffee is sent to a processing plant,” Amuzu says. “Here, it undergoes natural or washed processing.”

A pile of coffee cherries.

Support for Togolese coffee producers

Historically, there has been a distinct lack of government support for the country’s coffee farmers, which has made it difficult for smallholders to gain access to fertilisers and other agricultural inputs. 

Furthermore, the coffee sector’s market liberalisation has largely favoured more established farmers who grow higher volumes of coffee – granting them more access to finance and resources.

Today, the Coffee and Cocoa Sector Coordinating Committee (CCFCC) is responsible for the management of coffee production in Togo. The CCFCC provides farmers with access to training and education, but its system is largely still more beneficial to larger producers.

Local farmers say that there is support from private sector stakeholders to improve access to agricultural inputs, but this is often minimal. Moreover, demand for these resources remains relatively low as many farmers are unable to afford them.

In recent years, the Coffee and Cocoa Technical Unit (UTCC) developed an extension services system that provides support to farmers in more rural areas. As part of this initiative, trained professionals are sent to coffee farms to assist producers with agricultural best practices.

Currently, the UTCC operates an office in Kpalime – a town in southwest Togo. The office trains specialists for each of the country’s eight administrative districts. In turn, these district specialists train and supervise technical advisors who work in each of the country’s coffee-growing regions.

A woman grinds coffee beans in a large pestle and mortar.

Marketing and value addition

According to Amuzu, around 98% of Togo’s coffee production is exported, with major importers including France, Belgium, Germany, Italy, and Poland.

However, Covid-19 had a significant impact on the country’s coffee sector, which led to a steep decline in exports. Amuzu also believes that the situation was exacerbated by the mismanagement of funds for its coffee sector. 

“Moreover, domestic coffee consumption remains low because of a lack of technical and financial support,” he adds.

A steady decline in demand for Togolese coffee is undoubtedly adding to existing issues, too. In spite of this, there is a growing focus on increasing domestic consumption of Togolese coffee, with a number of initiatives in place.

Father François Komi Amouzou is the coffee processing manager at the Abbey of the Ascension in Dzogbégan, which is located in Togo’s plateau region. Here, monks have been growing arabica, robusta, and hybrid varieties since the 1970s – largely motivated by the purported medicinal effects of coffee, but also by the number of visitors the monastery receives.

“The original idea was to grow and process coffee for our own consumption, as well as for visitors,” he explains. “However, we then decided to sell roasted coffee for the local community.

“We want local people to experience the flavours of Togolese coffee,” he says. “We currently roast around eight or nine tonnes every year.”

For the most part, the majority of coffee consumed in Togo is instant coffee. Father Francois tells me that there are no coffee shops in the plateau region, but the Abbey is attempting to shift local perceptions about drinking higher-quality coffee.

To help increase local demand for Togolese coffee, the Inter-African Coffee Organisation (IACO) partnered with the CCFCC to establish coffee kiosks in the capital city of Lomé, with plans to extend the project to other areas of the country.

As part of the same initiative, some Togolese roasters take part in training workshops held in Gabon.

Two researchers from the Togo Cultivation of coffee Research Centre assess coffee cherries on branches.

Addressing challenges in the sector

Amuzu explains that the lack of technical support for harvesting and post-harvest processing is a serious issue for smallholder producers.

“In addition to this, improving quality control measures is a major challenge in Togo’s coffee sector,” he adds. “There are few local processing units that meet good hygiene standards, and access to finance is also a big issue.”

Furthermore, the sector is also facing a labour shortage. Koffi believes that this is because many young people in the country don’t view coffee production as profitable enough, causing them to search for work opportunities in more urban areas.

To overcome some of these challenges, Togolese authorities largely rely on surplus coffee production that can be sold in the following year. Moreover, the proposed National Development Plan (PND) aims to focus on improving processing methods to add more value to coffee, as well as boosting local consumption.

Amuzu believes that the CCFCC plays an important role in strengthening Togo’s coffee sector – particularly by encouraging more women and young people to take part in coffee production.

He adds that the CCFCC is also directly addressing Togo’s ageing coffee tree population. The committee has so far replanted more 300ha of coffee trees, as well as grafting thousands of seedlings onto existing rootstocks

As well as these programmes, the Centre for Agronomic Research for Forest Zones (CRA/F) has cultivated seven new varieties, although volumes are still too low to disseminate to farmers across the country.

A farmer dries coffee cherries on raised beds.

Despite many historic and current challenges, the Togolese coffee sector has shown that above all else, it is resilient. And while there is certainly potential for its robusta to increase in quality, more support will certainly be needed to help smallholder farmers in Togo improve their agricultural practices.

With the appropriate level of financial and technical support, Togo’s coffee producers may be able to improve quality and yields, and thereby help to gradually grow the country’s coffee sector. 

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on fine Togolese cacao.

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Can coffee production become more important for Togo? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
What makes coffee production in Okinawa unique? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/11/coffee-production-in-okinawa/ Tue, 29 Nov 2022 06:30:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=100674 According to the International Coffee Organisation, Japan is the third-largest consumer of coffee in the world, after the European Union and the US. In 2020/21, the country imported just under 7.4 million 60kg bags of green coffee. Japan has a rich history of coffee consumption. From the opening of the first kissaten in the late […]

The post What makes coffee production in Okinawa unique? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
According to the International Coffee Organisation, Japan is the third-largest consumer of coffee in the world, after the European Union and the US. In 2020/21, the country imported just under 7.4 million 60kg bags of green coffee.

Japan has a rich history of coffee consumption. From the opening of the first kissaten in the late 1880s to the emergence of third wave coffee culture in the early 2000s, the country has a longstanding relationship with coffee.

However, as well as this, a small part of Japan also technically lies in the Bean Belt, meaning it has the right climatic conditions for coffee production. The Okinawa Islands, located some 26 degrees north of the Tropics, are home to around 30 coffee farms which produce small quantities of green coffee.

To learn more about this small-scale production in Okinawa, I spoke to several local farmers. Read on to find out what they had to say about Okinawan coffee.

You may also like our article on exploring Japanese coffee shop culture.

A coffee producer holds cherries

A brief history of coffee production in Japan

It’s believed that coffee cultivation first began in Japan around 1876 on the Ogasawara Islands (also known as the Bonin Islands), which are an archipelago of over 30 subtropical and tropical islands around 1,000km south of Tokyo.

Japanese samurai and admiral Enomoto Takeaki is said to have initially proposed the idea of growing coffee on the islands to the Emperor Meiji’s government which was in power at the time. Following this, 500 coffee saplings were shipped from the Netherlands and planted on farms in the Ogasawara islands.

Some six years later, the first coffee plants were cultivated in Okinawa. However, as coffee is not native to Japan, initial trials were mostly unsuccessful. This is largely because producers had very limited knowledge and expertise, as well as little financial and technical support.

Moreover, in the early 1900s, many rural Japanese workers migrated to Brazil in search of work. A large proportion of these migrants actually worked on coffee farms, where there was a notable labour shortage.

Naturally, this meant that many of these agricultural workers came to understand more about coffee production – some of which later returned to Japan.

As such, today, many of Okinawa’s coffee trees can be genetically traced back to native Brazilian varieties.

A profile of Okinawan production

As it was not especially profitable, coffee production in Okinawa was initially more of a hobby, rather than a means of sustainable income. However, it has slowly grown over the last 120 years, and there are now about 30 coffee farms across the Okinawa Islands.

Most coffee is grown in the northern Yanburu region of the main island, however, a small number of plants are also cultivated on neighbouring islands.

The majority of Okinawan coffee is shade grown and intercropped with other tropical plants such as mango and banana. Furthermore, coffee is produced at very low altitudes, usually between 150 and 500 m.a.s.l.

Takuyuki Matayoshi is the President of Matayoshi Coffee Farm in the Yanbaru region. He tells me that he only grows arabica plants on his farm, which are mostly the Yellow Bourbon variety, with a smaller number of Red Bourbon plants. 

“Yellow Mundo Novo is also another common variety in Okinawa,” he adds.

Cherries are typically harvested from October to April. Once picked, each farm generally processes their coffee on-site.

Takuyuki explains that he uses mostly natural and honey processes at Matayoshi Farm, but notes that other methods are sometimes used by farmers in Okinawa.

A pile of green coffee beans

What makes this coffee unique?

Although Okinawa is by no means a major coffee producing region, the expertise on the island and the conditions mean it does have the potential to yield high-quality beans.

The island’s unique terrain and climate can impart desirable flavours to the coffee – with some producers and roasters claiming that no two harvests yield the same results. As well as this, some producers are carrying out more experimental processing methods to increase quality.

Yoshiyuki Nakamura is the owner of Mame Porepore, a roaster based in Okinawa. He also placed second in the 2018 World Roasting Championship.

“I enjoy the different flavours in the coffee each year,” he tells me. “I think that Okinawa’s coffee production is still developing, so farmers’ knowledge and skills will continue to improve.”

Takuyuki describes some of the prominent flavours and qualities of Okinawan coffee.

“It’s easy to drink, with notes of black tea and a clean and refreshing aftertaste,” he says. “Also, because it grows at very low altitudes, the beans are soft which affects how it’s roasted.”

However, unfavourable weather conditions (such as typhoons) mean that some harvests can produce very low yields. Takuyuki explains that sometimes this means that no coffee can be sold.

However, in some cases, 100g of Okinawan coffee can cost up to ¥4,300 (around US $32). 

In turn, this means many local consumers are not able to afford it, but there is growing interest from Tokyo coffee shops and roasters, as well as further afield.

White flowers on coffee plants

Agrotourism & Okinawan coffee farms

As Okinawa is a prominent tourist destination, some coffee farms on the island have capitalised by doubling as agrotourism ventures. Many provide guided farm tours and some even have spaces for visitors to stay.

These tours can be an integral part of coffee production in Okinawa as they can help to diversify farmers’ income – especially when harvests are lower than expected. 

“We invest money in running guided tours so we can also reinvest back into our farms,” Takuyuki says.

By offering these experiences, guests can tour farm facilities and understand more about the coffee supply chain.

Takayuki and his team run guided tours and educational workshops about coffee farming and processing. This, he says, ultimately helps to raise awareness. Visitors are also encouraged to participate, and drink some of the farm’s coffee as part of the process.

“Guests are then able to understand how much effort goes into one cup of coffee,” Takuyuki explains.

Unfortunately, during the pandemic, Okinawan tourism saw a sharp drop in revenue, which ultimately impacted producers, too. Alongside low yields, Takuyuki tells me that it’s been difficult for some producers to remain profitable.

A barista prepares a syphon brewer

Could it be successful on an international scale?

While there are a number of challenges facing Okinawan coffee production, arguably the biggest one is scale. With just 30 coffee farms across the island, it is hard to see it ever becoming anything beyond a niche coffee origin which blends cultivation with agrotourism.

However, to try and improve its international presence and share its unique insight, some local farmers have established the Okinawa Coffee Association – which is based at the University of Ryukyus on the main island.

Founded in 2014, the association carries out research, as well as holding seminars and workshops, to disseminate more information to Okinawan coffee producers and beyond.

The association’s ultimate goal is to improve the island’s agricultural practices, as well as providing more technical and financial support from the Japanese government. Effectively, it encourages farmers to not only grow, harvest, and process their own coffee, but to also market and sell it themselves in an effort to boost the local economy. 

Furthermore, in 2020, the association hosted the first ever Okinawa Coffee Summit. At the event, local producers – as well as coffee farmers from Taiwan – were able to network and share their expertise, and hopefully establish more profitable coffee production for the island.

Yellow and green coffee cherries growing on a branch

While Japan will never be able to fulfil its consumption with domestically-grown coffee, it’s clear that Okinawan coffee is worth talking about. In the years to come, support from groups such as the Okinawa Coffee Association could see the islands begin championing a new niche, signature agricultural product.

Furthermore, despite the challenges of growing coffee on the islands, the producers there are clearly resilient. They are experimenting, and quality continues to be a part of the conversation.

Yoshiyuki is certainly right in saying: “The highlight of Okinawan coffee today is how it will grow and develop in the future.” But what exactly the future will hold remains to be seen.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring Sicilian coffee production.

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post What makes coffee production in Okinawa unique? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Coffee production in Guinea https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/11/coffee-production-in-guinea/ Thu, 24 Nov 2022 06:34:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=100444 The Republic of Guinea (also known as Guinea) is a West African country which borders several countries, including Sierra Leone, Guinea Bissau, Senegal, Mali, Liberia, and Côte d’Ivoire.  Although it’s by no means a popular coffee origin, Guinea produces significant volumes of robusta – meaning coffee is an important cash crop for the country’s economy. […]

The post Coffee production in Guinea appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
The Republic of Guinea (also known as Guinea) is a West African country which borders several countries, including Sierra Leone, Guinea Bissau, Senegal, Mali, Liberia, and Côte d’Ivoire

Although it’s by no means a popular coffee origin, Guinea produces significant volumes of robusta – meaning coffee is an important cash crop for the country’s economy.

In the 2015/16 harvest period, the United States Department of Agriculture reported that Guinea’s production of robusta peaked at 280,000 60kg bags.

However, following a devastating Ebola outbreak between 2014 and 2016 in West Africa, more than 2,300 deaths were recorded in Guinea alone. Furthermore, years of political instability and low coffee prices have also kept production volumes low, with some Guinean farmers abandoning coffee production altogether. But recently, several initiatives have launched in the country which are focused on reviving its coffee sector.

To find out more about the potential of Guinea’s coffee sector, I spoke with two local industry experts. Read on to learn more.

You may also like our guide to the coffee sector in Côte d’Ivoire.

Green coffee beans in the plantation of Oque Daniel in the Island of Principe, Gulf of Guinea

An overview of coffee production in Guinea

In 2020, Guinea was the world’s 34th-largest producer of coffee. While the volumes of coffee it grows may be negligible on a global scale, it’s an important crop for many of the country’s farmers.

Coffee is grown in 15 regions across the country, including the Fouta Djallon plateau, the Ziama Massif nature reserve, and the land surrounding Mount Nimba.

Aboubacar Diallo is a coffee producer and an entrepreneur from Guinea. He says that both his father and grandfather were also coffee farmers.

He explains that most coffee farmers in the country are smallholders who own 1ha or less of land. Many of them face challenges with low yields and low prices.

The vast majority of coffee grown in Guinea is robusta, although it’s believed that there are a few farms which also grow arabica, but only on a very small scale. According to the Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries (CBI), arabica was first introduced to the country at some point in the early-to-mid 1900s, but cultivation was relatively unsuccessful.

Several reports claim that certain robusta species are native to Guinea, such as Coffee mauritania, Coffea stenophylla, and Coffea liberica. In fact, one robusta variety known as Ziama-Macenta has received a geographical indication for its high quality and desirable qualities, with some coffee professionals claiming it tastes similar to some arabica varieties.

However, Aboubacar tells me that Ziama-Macenta can be a low-yielding variety.

“It’s a high-quality robusta, but the region it’s grown in is unable to fill even two containers during a harvest season because of low production volumes,” he says.

Antoine Togbodouno is a sustainability and community group leader based in the country’s capital of Conakry. He explains that low coffee yields are a widespread problem in Guinea.

“Coffee is very important to Guinea, but it mainly grows in forested areas,” he says. “A few farmer groups have formed to grow production volumes and establish better marketing, but these are few and far between.”

He adds that many farmers don’t see growing coffee as a priority, meaning that some coffee producers are left with little choice but to form small organisations to receive more support.

Processing

Harvest season typically runs from September to the end of January. However, there are few quality control systems in place, as farmers generally pick both ripe and unripe cherries and process them collectively.

“Although coffee quality can be good in Guinea, farmers need to understand more about best farming practices,” Antoine says.

Many producers don’t have access to suitable drying beds, which means that cherries are often left to dry on patios. This can lead to the coffee taking on undesirable earthy qualities once processed, if farmers aren’t careful.

“After harvesting, many farmers don’t carry out any kind of processing,” Antoine tells me. “Typically, they only dry the cherries and then sell them to buyers, who will then also sell the coffee to other buyers for further processing.”

A coffee house in Boke, Guinea

Where does Guinean coffee end up?

The vast majority of Guinea’s coffee is exported. As a result of a formal lack of best practices for harvesting and processing, many Guinean producers receive very low prices for their coffee.

“There is very little formally-certified specialty coffee in Guinea,” Aboubacar says. “There is potential with the Ziama-Macenta variety, but there are several financial and technical barriers to improve quality.”

Once coffee is transported to cities – typically Macenta, which is close to the border with Liberia – foreign buyers purchase it from local agents. The coffee is then sorted and undergoes minor processing so that it is more suitable and stable for export. 

Lastly, the coffee is sent to warehouses – most of which are located in Conakry – before it is exported. Some of the biggest export markets for Guinean coffee are Algeria, Morocco, and Senegal, with Holland, Germany, France, Belgium, and Italy also buying smaller volumes.

However, there are also claims that because Guinea’s production volumes are so low, some of its exported coffee may actually be from Cote d’Ivoire – indicating a greater lack of traceability across the supply chain.

Consumption

For the most part, Guinea is a tea-drinking country. Most of the country’s tea is imported from Sri Lanka. However, despite this, coffee consumption is still seemingly growing – even if it is at a comparatively slow pace.

“People buy instant coffee drinks from roadside kiosks,” Antoine explains. “In coffee shops, people tend to drink black coffee.”

He adds that it’s more common for men to visit coffee shops than women, which may well be because of a number of sociocultural conventions which are still prominent in the country.

Antoine says that in Lélouma, a town in west-central Guinea, more and more coffee bars are opening.

“They are used as spaces for people to socialise and discuss certain topics, including politics and sports,” he explains.

There is also a growing number of more “formal” coffee shops in Conakry, including Café Monts Nimba which roasts locally-grown arabica and robusta. 

However, Aboubacart tells me that there are few coffee roasters in Guinea. Moreover, he says that there are no formally-trained baristas in the country.

“I want to learn how to be a professional barista,” he says. “I want to serve 100% Guinean coffee and introduce more people to the country’s coffee.”

A man brews coffee on the side of the road in Guinea

Addressing the challenges

There’s no doubt that Guinea’s coffee sector faces a significant number of challenges. One of the most prominent issues is a lack of farmer organisations.

“There needs to be more support to organise producers into organisations or co-operatives so they can grow coffee collectively,” Antoine explains. “Producers also need seeds to plant in nurseries so they can replace ageing trees.

“Technical assistance is also very important,” he adds. “We need more formal training on how to best plant seeds and maximise yields.”

Aboubacar agrees, saying that the lack of coffee co-operatives and organisations means there is little incentive for farmers to ask for much needed support. 

Furthermore, a distinct lack of standardised quality control means that producers will continue to experience low yields and low prices.

However, Aboubacar says that a few years ago, the then-president of the country proposed an initiative to revive arabica production in northern Guinea – which has a similar climate to the highlands of Kenya and Ethiopia. 

While some seeds were imported from Rwanda, there has been little progress made with boosting Guinea’s arabica production. Moreover, the country’s Ebola Recovery Plan focused significantly on increasing overall coffee production, but efforts have been largely unsuccessful so far.

Aboubacar says he isn’t particularly optimistic about the future of the country’s coffee sector. 

“If conditions don’t improve, I anticipate that production volumes will continue to decrease over the years because farmers are becoming less interested in growing coffee,” he tells me. “It’s a lot of hard work with few rewards, including low prices.”

Coffee cherries dry on patios

Following years of political instability and the devastating Ebola outbreak, Guinea’s coffee sector continues to struggle. While there is certainly potential for it to grow larger volumes of higher-quality coffee (including arabica), a lack of adequate government oversight, agricultural best practices, and quality control means more support is essential.

Ultimately, there needs to be more emphasis on forming coffee co-operatives and organisations to strengthen the country’s coffee sector, but it’s evident that these efforts will take some time.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring coffee production in Ghana.

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Coffee production in Guinea appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Exploring coffee production in Sierra Leone https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/10/exploring-coffee-production-in-sierra-leone/ Tue, 25 Oct 2022 05:27:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=99841 Sierra Leone, a West African country which borders the Atlantic Ocean, Liberia, and Guinea, is mostly known for its cocoa production, rather than growing coffee. Between the 1960s and 1980s, Sierra Leone produced around 20,000 tonnes of coffee per year. However, following a civil war in 1991, most coffee farms were abandoned, and subsequently, production […]

The post Exploring coffee production in Sierra Leone appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Sierra Leone, a West African country which borders the Atlantic Ocean, Liberia, and Guinea, is mostly known for its cocoa production, rather than growing coffee.

Between the 1960s and 1980s, Sierra Leone produced around 20,000 tonnes of coffee per year. However, following a civil war in 1991, most coffee farms were abandoned, and subsequently, production volumes sharply declined.

Despite the conflict ending in the early 2000s, coffee production unfortunately never reached the levels seen in previous decades. Furthermore, low coffee prices at that time meant many producers had little incentive to continue growing coffee.

According to Index Mundi, Sierra Leone is expected to produce around 50,000 60kg bags of green coffee in the 2021/22 harvest season – more than a 33% decrease on the previous year. But is there hope of the country’s production volumes increasing in the coming years?

To find out, I spoke with Wahlid Basoon and Dr. Jeremy Haggar. Read on to find out what they had to say about Sierra Leone’s coffee sector.

You may also like our article on Coffea stenophylla.

African Coffee (Coffea stenophylla), West Africa

An overview of coffee production in Sierra Leone

Dr. Jeremy Haggar is a Professor of Agroecology at the University of Greenwich. He also co-wrote Lost and Found: Coffea stenophylla and C. affinis, the Forgotten Coffee Crop Species of West Africa with Dr. Aaron Davis of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.

He tells me about the history of Sierra Leone’s coffee industry.

“Prior to the civil war in 1991, coffee production volumes were higher than cocoa,” he says. “Now, there are many abandoned coffee farms, mostly in the northeastern province of the country.”

Walid Bahsoon is an entrepreneur in Sierra Leone. 

“Most of the coffee plants in Sierra Leone today were planted before the war,” he says. “A lack of funds means farmers aren’t able to buy fertilisers, so their yields have dropped. 

“However, there are some initiatives which support farmers to plant new seedlings and increase production,” he adds. “There is more than enough arable land in Sierra Leone [to accommodate for more coffee plants]”. 

Jeremy says that in 2013, an EU-funded programme was launched in Sierra Leone in an attempt to rehabilitate abandoned coffee farms. The project involved carrying out intensive pruning of ageing coffee plants, as well as providing producers with more farm inputs (such as fertilisers). While there may have been some levels of success from the initiative, production volumes still remain low.

Coffee in Sierra Leone is mainly grown in the Eastern province, which covers Kenema, Kailahun, and KonoKono. Other notable coffee growing areas in the country include the districts of Pujuhem, Koinadugu and Tonkolili, Moyamba, and Bo.

The majority of coffee production is carried out by third or fourth-generation smallholder farmers. The average size of a coffee farm in the country is 4ha, according to the International Coffee Organisation.

“Harvesting is mostly done by hand,” Walid tells me.

Coffee is harvested between December and March in Sierra Leone. After picking, the cherries are placed on patios to dry. However, because of higher levels of rainfall in late March, cherries harvested during this time are not able to reach the optimal moisture level (between 10% and 12%) for export.

As a result of this, as well as other complex reasons, Sierra Leone isn’t known for producing high-quality coffee – despite its potential to do so.

“Most of the country’s smallholder producers grow coffee on small parcels of land, so productivity is low,” Jeremy explains. “The co-operative model for coffee in the country is not fully developed because the market for cocoa is bigger.”

For example, Sierra Leone earned US $47.3 million in cocoa exports in 2020, compared to US $4.79 million in coffee earnings in the same year.

Most coffee grown in the country is naturally processed, as most farmers pick the beans and dry them as cherry on their farms. There have been attempts to establish washing stations, but many have been unsuccessful. Jeremy says this is because it would require significant restructuring of the country’s coffee market, as well as training and providing resources to farmers

“Producers would have to invest a lot more in harvesting,” he explains. “There would need to be a big incentive for them to do this successfully, [but currently there isn’t because coffee prices remain low.]”

Leaves of Coffea stenophylla, highland coffee or Sierra Leone coffee, family: Rubiaceae, native region: West Africa

Sierra Leone’s “lost” coffee species

However, despite the fact that coffee production in Sierra Leone faces its own share of challenges, some believe there are signs that it could help to offer diversification in the specialty coffee industry. 

This is largely thanks to the rediscovery of Coffea stenophylla, a wild-growing coffee species which is native to West Africa.

The species was first scientifically described in 1834. It’s widely believed that it was cultivated at scale as early as the late 19th century, along with liberica, another species native to West Africa. 

Between 2017 and 2019, a research team from the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew travelled across Sierra Leone to find wild-growing stenophylla plants. Prior to their trip, the last official sighting of the coffee species was in 1954.

Although initial fieldwork was unsuccessful, the researchers eventually found a small population of stenophylla plants growing at a low elevation. Researchers concluded that stenophylla was more resilient than arabica, mainly because it could withstand higher temperatures.

There has been little sensory or agronomic evaluation of stenophylla. However, in the years since discovering more stenophylla plants, a small sample of green beans were sent to Union Hand Roasted Coffee in London, who roasted and cupped the coffee. Their Q graders scored the coffee as equivalent to specialty grade on an arabica scale, although the exact score hasn’t been confirmed.

Today, Sierra Leone primarily produces robusta, but stenophylla is still grown on a small number of farms – although production volumes are negligible.

cocoa seedlings growing in sierra leone

How is coffee marketed and traded?

Compared to other West African countries, Sierra Leone’s coffee market is significantly less developed.

In previous years, the country’s coffee exports and farmgate prices were regulated by the Sierra Leone Produce Marketing Board. Unfortunately, the country’s farmgate prices were lower than the global average price at the time – which was another reason for the widespread decline in coffee production.  Today, it is believed that farmgate prices in Sierra Leone are around 40% to 50% of the global average price. 

Wahlid says up to 80% of the country’s coffee is exported, and can now be directly purchased by private companies. International traders buy between 70% and 75% of annual production volumes, while the remaining volumes are purchased by local traders or “unofficial” exporters. 

The latter are traders who don’t officially (or legally) declare where the green coffee is being shipped to. Walid tells me that most of this coffee is smuggled to neighbouring countries, such as Liberia and Guinea – where it most likely cannot be traced back to Sierra Leone.

Exporters sometimes have buying agents visit farms around three to four months prior to harvest. These agents can lend money to producers, usually based on the premise that the farmer will provide them with a certain volume of coffee.

It’s also common for buying agents from neighbouring countries to visit farms before the harvest period begins. However, these agents are only allowed to purchase up to 25% of the total harvest.

During the harvest season, buying agents will collect coffee from farms, pay the producers, and then transport the coffee to a consolidating agent. This agent will combine all the coffee together into trucks and ship it to exporters – which can result in less of a focus on quality control.

African village woman making coffee traditional style

Coffee consumption in Sierra Leone

Despite its long history of coffee production, consumption remains low in Sierra Leone. For most people in the country, coffee is seen as a luxury item.

Those who do drink it usually prepare coffee by boiling roasted whole beans or ground coffee in a large pot. Street vendors often sell this from kiosks in larger cities and towns.

Walid says instant coffee products are also popular.

“Instant Nescafé products imported from the Ivory Coast were first introduced to Sierra Leone in 2010,” he tells me. “These products are affordable and convenient, [so more people are buying them].”

However, Jeremy says that coffee consumption is starting to develop in the country.

“There is a developing coffee culture in Sierra Leone,” he tells me. “There are two or three roasters and coffee shops in Freetown, which is the capital city,” he says. 

“They also brew and sell coffee grown in the country,” he adds.

Walid explains that consumption of coffee typically increases significantly during Ramadan, when Muslim people pray for extended periods. This is mainly because coffee can be used as an appetite suppressant during fasting periods.

A farmer works the land in Freetown, Sierra Leone.

Addressing challenges in the sector

There are many difficulties which face coffee farmers in Sierra Leone, but one of the most significant issues is child labour.

A 2021 report from the US Department of Labor found that more than 35% of children aged between five and 14 in Sierra Leone are being forced to work. And while the report stated that the country’s government had made “‘moderate’ advancement in efforts to eliminate the worst forms of child labour”, there is still much progress to be made to end child labour altogether.

Beyond child labour, Jeremy says that low production volumes and interest in coffee production remains key issues, too.

“There is plenty of demand for cocoa, so production volumes are high for this cash crop,” he says. “The cocoa market receives more investment and has higher standards of quality control, but this has not happened for the coffee sector. 

“There is the capacity to grow Sierra Leone’s coffee sector, but current market conditions can’t support the growth,” he adds. 

Despite this, Jeremy tells me that the country’s government is interested in developing the industry.

Wahlid, meanwhile, agrees, but says the government needs to provide further support.

“In previous years, the government set a universal farmgate price that was calculated in a way to maximise its revenue,” he says. “However, the government currently does not dictate farmgate prices, so the market regulates itself.”

While this market model may work in other coffee-producing countries, it’s clear that both investment and policy are needed if Sierra Leone’s coffee industry is to develop. At present, there are no policies in place encouraging banks to provide long-term loans to farm workers. While short-term credit facilities are available, interest rates can often exceed 25%.

Some NGOs and overseas governments are doing what they can to support coffee production in the country. For instance, earlier this year, the European Union launched the Boosting Agriculture and Food Security (BAFS) project. Among other pledges, the programme aims to provide more support to supply chain actors in Sierra Leone’s coffee, cocoa, and cashew agricultural industries.

In addition to this, the World Bank is currently running several initiatives in the country. These include a Smallholder Commercialisation and Agribusiness Development Project which hopes to “foster productive business linkages between smallholder farmers and selected agribusiness firms and other commodity off-takers”.

Cocoa beans drying at a dealership in Kailahun, Sierra Leone

Following decades of conflict and political instability, Sierra Leone’s coffee sector continues to struggle. While there is certainly potential for it to grow higher-quality coffee, a lack of adequate finance, legislation, and government oversight means more support is essential.

Furthermore, while there is interest from the specialty coffee sector in Coffea stenophylla, any attempts to scale coffee production will certainly require more investment and interest.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring coffee production in Ghana.

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Exploring coffee production in Sierra Leone appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
A guide to coffee production in Saudi Arabia https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/07/guide-to-saudi-arabia-coffee-production/ Wed, 20 Jul 2022 05:24:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=98009 Although Saudi Arabia has been growing coffee for the past few centuries, it is by no means a major coffee-producing country. In 2020, it’s estimated that Saudi-grown coffee totalled around 300 tonnes. However, the country has a rich history of coffee consumption, which is only continuing to grow. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) […]

The post A guide to coffee production in Saudi Arabia appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Although Saudi Arabia has been growing coffee for the past few centuries, it is by no means a major coffee-producing country. In 2020, it’s estimated that Saudi-grown coffee totalled around 300 tonnes.

However, the country has a rich history of coffee consumption, which is only continuing to grow. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) estimates that Saudi Arabia will import around 200,000 60kg bags across the 2022/23 crop year.

So, could the gap between these two figures ever close? To learn more about Saudi Arabia’s coffee sector, I spoke with two local coffee professionals. Read on to find out more about how the country’s coffee production is changing.

You may also like our article on the history of Mocha coffee & Yemeni coffee culture.

A coffee plant grows in Saudi Arabia

A profile of Saudi Arabian coffee production

Coffee production in Saudi Arabia is mostly concentrated in three regions in the southwest of the country: the Jazan region around the city of the same name, Hejazi, and Asir. Most of the coffee produced here is consumed domestically, as well as being exported to other Middle Eastern countries.

In the region around Jazan alone, it’s estimated that more than 79,000 coffee plants are growing on the steep hillsides of the area’s mountain ranges. The climate is moderate, with high levels of humidity and rainfall, which makes it ideal for growing coffee.

Several unique coffee varieties grow in Saudi Arabia, including four by the name of Khawlani, Berri, Harari, and Bahri. It’s believed that the Bahri variety was transported from Brazil via Turkey, having been brought to Saudi Arabia for cultivation some years ago.

In Saudi Arabia, flowering usually begins in late March before coffee cherries mature for around six months. Once harvested and processed, the beans are sorted and graded, often by colour, before they are sold to exporters or roasters.

Almohanad Almarwai is the co-founder and CEO of the Arabian Coffee Institute (ACI). He tells me that Saudi people generally prefer lighter roasts compared to most other Middle Eastern countries.

“In Saudi Arabia, people tend to drink a light roast [that is roasted to just before] first crack,” he says. “Some of the more common flavour notes are raisins, dates, other dried fruits, dark chocolate, and spices such as cardamom and cinnamon.

“Saudi’s coffee drinkers tend to prefer more flavourful and complex coffees, which is why we add spices like cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves,” he adds.

A Saudi Arabian farmer tends to coffee plants on a farm

Initiatives to increase coffee production

Over the past few years, there have been several attempts to bolster coffee production in Saudi Arabia.

One of the more notable initiatives is the Saudi government’s Vision 2030, which seeks to diversify the nation’s economy and thereby reduce dependence on oil exports. As part of this initiative, the government launched the 2022 Year of Saudi Coffee campaign, which also aims to promote domestic coffee consumption.

Through this programme, the Saudi Arabian government plans to grow around 5,000 tonnes of higher-quality coffee every year, with plans to export at a major scale by 2040.

“Saudi is aiming to be one of the leading coffee-producing countries [over the next couple of decades],” Almohanad tells me. “We are also experimenting with different processing methods.

“The Middle East has always been a major hub for coffee, so the Saudi government is planning to revive this [in the coming years],” he adds.

Alongside bolstering production, there is also significant interest in increasing the domestic consumption of specialty coffee.

“When specialty coffee was first introduced to Middle Eastern countries around late 2013, consumers were already used to coffee being a complex drink which is full of flavours,” Almohanad explains. “This is why consumers were easily acclimated to specialty coffee.”

The number of specialty roasters and coffee shops in the country are steadily on the rise, as well as organisations such as the newly-founded ACI.

The institute is currently creating a coffee curriculum in Arabic that will be used to educate national coffee professionals and consumers, as well as informing international markets on different farming, processing, and brewing methods in the Middle East.

Two coffee professionals sit on a pile of green coffee jute bags

Overcoming challenges in the Saudi Arabian coffee sector

But despite the launch of these initiatives, coffee production in Saudi Arabia still faces challenges.

Towards the end of the 20th century, the country shifted its focus to make oil a key export for the Saudi Arabian economy. As a result, many people abandoned coffee production in favour of other, more profitable industries, which meant there were huge declines in production and some farms were abandoned.

“[As such], coffee plants in Saudi Arabia are old, which naturally results in low yields,” Almohanad explains. “The plants need more attention; I sometimes still find primary and secondary defects.”

What’s more, rising global temperatures are negatively affecting Saudi coffee production. In December 2021, Arab News reported that coffee farms in the region around the city of Jazan were some of the worst affected in the country because of lower levels of rainfall.

To add to the already difficult growing conditions, coffee farms in Saudi Arabia are typically located on the steep hillsides of mountains, which makes it difficult to implement proper irrigation systems.

“Moreover, rainfall levels in [areas such as Jazan] are very unpredictable and are often insufficient for coffee cultivation,” Almohanad says.

Aside from climate-related challenges, a lack of formal coffee knowledge and investment in technical assistance is also hindering production. Many Saudi coffee farmers have minimal access to research, best agricultural practices, and updated farming technologies, which has held back significant development of coffee production.

However, with the government’s drive to promote the production of Saudi Arabian coffee, both yield and quality could improve in the future.

A man smells some coffee in cupping bowls

Looking to the future

Although Saudi Arabia’s coffee export levels are still largely negligible, there is certainly potential for production levels to grow.

In fact, a 2017 research paper found that with the appropriate resources and infrastructure, the Saudi coffee sector’s share of the global market could increase as high as 2%. The researchers also concluded that coffee production could be scaled mostly in the southern and southwestern parts of the country.

By the end of 2021, around 400,000 coffee trees were planted across 600 farms in the country, which are capable of producing about 800 tonnes of coffee each year.

Furthermore, as a part of its 2030 Vision, the Saudi government aims to plant a total of 1.3 million coffee trees by 2025 to boost production levels, as well as developing direct trade relationships with smallholder farmers.

In the long term, there will be several programmes put in place to support farmers with training, achieving organic certification, and marketing their coffees.

There have also been efforts to protect coffee production in Saudi Arabia. In 2019, the Saudi Heritage Preservation Society filed a UNESCO application to protect traditional Khawlani coffee production methods in Saudi Arabia.

Khawlani coffee beans, which are named after the tribe that first cultivated them, are some of the most highly-prized coffee beans in the Middle East. Typically, traditional Khawlani coffee farming techniques are passed down through generations, which means there is a lack of more formal and documented agricultural practices.

A Saudi man picks coffee cherry

Support from local roasters

In order for the country’s coffee sector to grow sustainably, support from roasters is essential.

Many professionals in the Saudi coffee industry are working with local farmers to produce higher-quality coffee.

Osamah Al-Awaam is the founder of Roasting House. He tells me why he donated several Behmor roasters to Saudi farmers.

“For us, it’s not just a donation; it’s a necessity,” he says. “If we want farmers to understand what we are looking for [with the coffee they produce], we have to give them the chance to taste it.

“We need to connect more roasters with the farmers,” he adds.

He also says that with the support of roasters, some Saudi farmers are starting to experiment with different processing methods. In some cases, this means moving away from traditional natural processing methods, and adopting newer and more innovative techniques such as anaerobic fermentation.

Osamah explains that more and more of the younger generations working at all levels of the country’s coffee industry have started to attend coffee events and participate in competitions, which also serves to further increase exposure for specialty coffee in the country.

Green coffee beans on a metal tray

While Saudi Arabia’s specialty coffee industry may still be in its early stages, there is great potential for the sector to grow in the coming years.

With continued support from the government, as well as the private sector, the country could become a more important part of the global coffee industry.

As more coffee plants are cultivated in the country, it will be interesting to see if it is able to meet its ambitious goals for increasing coffee production.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on coffee culture in Iran.

Photo credits: Tony Pramana, Osamah Alawwam, ASH Cafés

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post A guide to coffee production in Saudi Arabia appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
A guide to the coffee sector in Côte d’Ivoire https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/07/guide-to-coffee-sector-in-cote-divoire/ Mon, 18 Jul 2022 05:26:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=97985 The Republic of Cote d’Ivoire (also commonly known by its English name, the Ivory Coast) is a West African country with a population of more than 20 million people. The country shares its border with Ghana, Guinea, Liberia, Mali, and Burkina Faso.  Coffee is the country’s second-largest commodity export, but production has steadily declined since […]

The post A guide to the coffee sector in Côte d’Ivoire appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
The Republic of Cote d’Ivoire (also commonly known by its English name, the Ivory Coast) is a West African country with a population of more than 20 million people. The country shares its border with Ghana, Guinea, Liberia, Mali, and Burkina Faso. 

Coffee is the country’s second-largest commodity export, but production has steadily declined since the early 2000s. Throughout the 1970s and 80s, Côte d’Ivoire was one of Africa’s largest producers of coffee, particularly of robusta – with annual export volumes often exceeding 300,000 tonnes.

So why have production levels dropped so significantly, and is there potential for the country to regain its position in the global coffee market? I spoke to two local coffee experts to find out. Read on to find out what they told me.

You might also like our article on coffee & conflict in the Democratic Republic of Congo.

A coffee farmer picks apart a coffee cherry

A brief history of coffee in Côte d’Ivoire

The French colonised Côte d’Ivoire in the late 19th century. Coffee was introduced not long after, and it’s believed this was the work of a French colonist by the name of Arthur Verdier.

However, it was another 30 years until coffee was grown on a commercial level. Up until this point, farmers cultivated small volumes of Coffea liberica: a rare coffee species which originated from neighbouring Liberia.

At some point in the early 20th century, robusta came to Côte d’Ivoire from Java and the Congo, which at that time was colonised by Belgium. In the years that followed, the country’s coffee industry boomed. Between 1945 and 1958, annual production increased from around 36,000 tonnes to some 112,500 tonnes.

After the country became independent from France in 1960, coffee production volumes rose even further. During the 1970s, Côte d’Ivoire was the third-largest coffee producing country in the world after Brazil and Colombia.

In 2000, robusta production peaked at 380,000 tonnes. Unfortunately, however, ongoing civil unrest which took place over the following decades had devastating effects on the country’s coffee sector. Between 2002 and 2011, two civil wars resulted in a significant fall in coffee production.

White coffee flowers growing on a branch

An overview of coffee production in Côte d’Ivoire today

Despite declining production volumes, Côte d’Ivoire is still one of the largest coffee producers in Africa. According to the USDA, it’s estimated that the country will export 800,000 60kg bags in 2022/23.

For the most part, the country only produces robusta, which is grown at altitudes between 300 and 400 m.a.s.l.

However, the country is also known for a hybrid of robusta and arabica – referred to as arabusta  – which is grown in mountainous areas around the city of Man. Arabusta was first cultivated in the 1960s after the country’s first President, Felix Houphouet-Boigny, wanted producers to grow a new coffee that tasted sweeter and milder than robusta. As a result of this, arabusta was marketed as the “Presidential Coffee”.

Currently, very few farmers grow arabusta, despite its more desirable characteristics. This is because the plant grows at a much slower rate than robusta; it takes around two years for arabusta to produce cherry. However, it’s important to also note that arabusta plants have a longer lifespan than robusta.

In Côte d’Ivoire, coffee is mostly grown in the regions of Abboisso, Abengourou, and Divo. Abboiso is one of the main coffee-growing areas, located approximately 100km northeast of the capital city Yamoussoukro.

The Abengourou region is around 100km northeast of Abboiso, but, sadly, many of the coffee farms here are neglected. Naturally, this means the coffee trees are old and produce small quantities of low-quality coffee.

Divo, meanwhile, is approximately 200km northeast of Abidjan, the country’s largest and most economically significant city. This region is home to the National Agricultural Research Centre (CNRA) facility. However, similarly to Abboiso, cocoa is the main cash crop for farmers in this region, followed by rubber and coffee.

Other regions that grow coffee in the country include Dimbokro, Bongouanou, Gagnoa, Man, Danané, Agboville, Daloa, San Pedro, Soubré, and Sassandra. However, across the country, coffee production volumes are low compared to other cash crops – namely cassava, palm oil, banana, pineapple, and coconut.

Hadi Beydoun is the founder and CEO of Café Continent, the first specialty coffee shop in Côte d’Ivoire. He provides some insight into these low levels of coffee production.

“There is a lack of information on coffee production in the country,” he says. “People know that there is a lot of cocoa grown, but don’t necessarily know about coffee.”

A pile of green coffee beans at various processing stages

Processing and trading

Coffee plants in Côte d’Ivoire flower continually throughout the year. Generally speaking, farmers harvest up to 250kg of cherry per hectare, and this is mostly carried out by hand between August and January.

Most coffee in the country undergoes natural processing. Unfortunately, some of the coffee produced in the country has a significant amount of defects, because of historically poor quality control during processing and other post-harvest issues.

“I think coffee quality has dropped over the past few years,” Hadi says. “This is partly because the government mainly focuses on cocoa production.

“There are a lot of defective beans,” he adds. “[As a specialty coffee shop], it can be difficult for us to find high-quality coffee.”

In addition to this, ongoing conflict in the country is also contributing to the overall low quality of coffee.

“Because of political instability and civil war, farmers want to harvest and [then quickly sell their coffee],” Hadi explains. “What’s more, producers would rather grow cocoa and [liquid sap for] rubber than coffee.”

As a result of these factors, Hadi adds that few coffee farmers are willing to invest in new harvesting or processing techniques because there is little financial incentive to do so.

Magdi Abdul Reda is the Production Manager at Café Continent. He tells me that most coffee producers in the country belong to co-operatives.

“Most of them are family businesses,” he says. “Most of them grow small amounts of coffee that [aren’t worth transporting] to bigger cities, which leaves them no choice but to join co-operatives.”

“The co-operatives sell the farmers’ coffee after harvest,” Hadi says. “Some buyers [will carry out more] basic post-harvest processing, as they have the machinery and equipment [to better prepare] beans for export.”

Grading also plays a big role in identifying the quality of the coffee produced in Côte d’Ivoire, which has its own grading system.

“Grade 0 is the highest, while grade 2 is the lowest quality,” Hadi says. “But even when we receive grade 0 coffee, we still have to sort it because there can be many stones and sticks in the beans.”

Once it’s ready for export, Ivorian coffee is shipped to a number of different countries, including the Netherlands, the US, France, Italy, Germany, Japan, Canada, and the UK. Coffee imported from Côte d’Ivoire is often added to blends rather than being sold as a single origin.

A woman walks past a roadside coffee stall in Côte d'Ivoire

Domestic consumption

There is no real heritage of coffee consumption in Côte d’Ivoire.

“People typically drink instant Nescafé coffee,” Hadi explains. “Besides that, there is no coffee culture in the country.”

Magdi tells me that in Côte d’Ivoire, coffee consumption is related to socioeconomic status. Most lower-income people will drink instant coffee or café noir: bitter-tasting brewed coffee which is often served from roadside kiosks. Among wealthier people in the country, coffee capsules are considered to be the highest-quality coffee that is generally available.

There is also little shared knowledge around brewing and roasting coffee, which Hadi says results in a limited number of ways to brew coffee. However, he explains that Café Continent is working to promote specialty coffee and provide more educational resources for consumers.

Coffee farmers in Côte d'Ivoire fill sacks with green coffee for export

Challenges and moving forward

Sadly, Côte d’Ivoire’s coffee industry faces many challenges. Ongoing conflicts have led to a distinct lack of funding and investment in development and infrastructure.

Hadi says there has been little investment in developing post-harvest infrastructure, which has a major impact on overall coffee quality.

“[There are few] quality control checks in the country,” he explains. “This is one of the many reasons why quality is so low.”

Magdi adds that illiteracy is one of the biggest challenges producers face.

“Most farmers do not know how to read and write,” he says. “Some of the cooperative leaders are literate, [which can result in unethical business practices as farmers can be taken advantage of]”.

However, there is certainly potential for coffee production to increase.

In 2014, Reuters reported that the government invested 8 billion CFA francs (US $15 million) to boost annual production volumes to 400,000 tonnes by 2020.

Unfortunately, these production goals were somewhat ambitious, and it will most likely take much longer to reach these volumes.

For now, improving access to education for coffee farmers, as well as investing in adequate infrastructure and new coffee plants, are the most pressing factors that could help to bolster coffee production.

Magdi and Hadi both emphasise that if the government and private sector stakeholders invest in coffee as much as the cocoa sector, the country’s coffee industry could see steady growth once again.

A coffee farmer harvests cherry in Côte d'Ivoire

Coffee production in Côte d’Ivoire is arguably a shadow of what it used to be. It’s clear that civil unrest has had a significant impact on coffee production, and many farmers have, in the years since, opted for other, more resilient cash crops.

“There is a lot of work to be done,” Hadi concludes. “We are working hard to improve coffee quality.”

If more industry stakeholders can invest in the country’s coffee sector – as well as improving domestic consumption – then there may well be hope for coffee production in Côte d’Ivoire to increase in the years ahead.

Enjoyed this? Then try our article on how the civil war is affecting the Ethiopian coffee industry.

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post A guide to the coffee sector in Côte d’Ivoire appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
A guide to South Sudan’s coffee sector https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/06/a-guide-to-south-sudan-coffee-sector/ Mon, 13 Jun 2022 05:22:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=97349 Despite its long history, South Sudan only became independent in 2011 – making it the newest internationally recognised country in the world. As well as Sudan, South Sudan borders Ethiopia, Uganda, and Kenya – three of the top five coffee-producing countries in Africa. While many believe Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, a 2021 study […]

The post A guide to South Sudan’s coffee sector appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Despite its long history, South Sudan only became independent in 2011 – making it the newest internationally recognised country in the world. As well as Sudan, South Sudan borders Ethiopia, Uganda, and Kenya – three of the top five coffee-producing countries in Africa.

While many believe Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, a 2021 study actually found that arabica coffee could have also originated from South Sudan. However, surprisingly, coffee was only first exported from the country in 2015.

As a result of ongoing conflict and civil wars, the country’s coffee sector has struggled in the years since its independence. Thankfully, there are signs that the coffee industry in South Sudan is coming back to life, although the country still faces a number of challenges.

I spoke with several local and global coffee experts to learn more about the genetic history of coffee in South Sudan, as well as the country’s wider coffee sector. Read on to find out what they told me.

You might also like our article on the origins of coffee in Africa.

coffee crops in south sudan

South Sudan: Another origin for arabica?

As its export volumes have been negligible for some time, many people are unaware that coffee is grown in South Sudan. Most of the coffee grown in the country is consumed domestically.

However, a recent study entitled Validating South Sudan as a Centre of Origin for Coffea arabica: Implications for Conservation and Coffee Crop Improvement published in the Frontiers in Sustainable Food Systems journal has found there is historic evidence of arabica coffee growing in South Sudan.

Christophe Montagnon is the CEO of RD2 Vision, an agronomic research and development consultancy focused on coffee. He also contributed to the research paper.

“There is very little information available on the genetic diversity of arabica coffee,” he explains. “There are indications in historic literature that there were some arabica trees growing wild in South Sudan.”

Despite this, Christophe says that it has been widely accepted that Ethiopia was the sole origin of arabica coffee. He notes that DNA testing has proven that this claim is oversimplified.

“When we tested and compared the DNA of some leaves from coffee trees in South Sudan with the leaves of coffee trees in Ethiopia, we found that the DNA was completely different,” he tells me.

According to Christophe and his colleagues, arabica has also grown wild in South Sudan for some time without human intervention.

“This is proof that coffee trees in South Sudan were not introduced from Ethiopia,” he explains. 

Sarada Krishnan is the Executive Director of the International Women’s Coffee Alliance (IWCA). She also contributed towards the research paper on South Sudanese coffee.

She says that despite the country only establishing its borders over a decade ago, its coffee is genetically unique.

“As a result of isolation from Ethiopian arabica populations, South Sudanese arabica has become genetically distinct,” she tells me. “However, some varieties were brought into South Sudan for cultivation, such as Sudan Rume.” 

This variety is now grown in other parts of the Bean Belt, including Colombia.

sowing coffee seeds in south sudan

A profile of South Sudanese coffee production

South Sudan has a unique and distinctive climate which makes it ideal for growing both robusta and arabica. 

The drier regions in the north are better suited for growing robusta coffee, as this species is better able to tolerate higher temperatures and lower altitudes. However, in the southern parts of the country, there are higher levels of rainfall and higher humidity, which are more favourable for growing arabica.

Some arabica coffee grows naturally in the Boma Plateau, which is located in the east of South Sudan near the border with Ethiopia.

Sadly, despite its capacity to grow potentially high-quality coffee, South Sudan’s coffee sector collapsed as a result of continued conflict.

Delphine Bourseau is Nespresso’s Global Relations Manager. She explains how external parties have helped to revitalise the country’s coffee industry.

“Following on from gaining independence in 2011, Nespresso, in partnership with the non-profit TechnoServe, initiated programmes to support smallholder coffee farmers in the southwestern Yei County,” she says. “The programmes aim to revive the country’s coffee industry, which was nearly destroyed by decades of conflict, with a focus on sustainability,” she adds.

Yei County is close to the country’s borders with the Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda, and has subsequently served as something of a prominent hub for trade between the three countries. It has also seen a resurgence in coffee production over the past few years. Furthermore, while the climate here is more suited to growing arabica, robusta is actually more common.

drying coffee on raised beds

How is coffee traded and consumed?

Coffee has been growing in Yei County since the 1920s. Currently, there are an estimated 1,000 smallholder farmers in the area who grow and sell coffee.

Historically, natural processing has been popular in South Sudan. However, a number of newly-constructed wet mills in recent years have supported farmers to produce more washed coffee. 

Paul Stewart is the Global Coffee Director at TechnoServe. He tells me that since 2016, ongoing conflict has hindered wet mill operations in South Sudan.

“Co-operatives have not been able to operate wet mills, so farmers sun-dry coffee instead and sell it on the local market,” he says. “Fortunately, the prices that farmers are able to get at this moment are good, mainly because it is so difficult to import coffee into South Sudan.”

The country’s coffee trade system is relatively simple. Farmers sell their coffee to traders, before it is then sold across the country. The market is “free”, meaning farmers can sell their coffee to anyone with minimal restrictions.

While some of South Sudan’s coffee is exported for international consumption, this is a miniscule volume. For approximately four years from 2012 to 2016, Nespresso purchased all the coffee produced for international export in the country, and sold it across Europe and the US as part of the “Limited Edition Grand Cru SULUJA ti South Sudan” capsule line.

As far as domestic consumption is concerned, South Sudan has a unique historic culture of consuming coffee. Guhwah coffee is prepared and served in a jebena – a flask made out of red clay. This ceremony is somewhat similar to those which are popular in Ethiopia and Eritrea.

“South Sudanese people do drink coffee,” Paul says. “However, most coffee is imported from Uganda

“All of the coffee produced in South Sudan is consumed locally, most of it at home. People buy green coffee and roast it themselves,” he adds.

In this case, people will roast the coffee in a large pan over an open flame. After the roasted beans have cooled, they are ground using a pestle and mortar. Black pepper or ground ginger is often added to the coffee before it’s boiled.

Robusta coffee grown in South Sudan is aromatic, with mild, woody flavours and a balanced body.

farm in south sudan

Threats to genetic diversity

Like most aspects of life in South Sudan, coffee production has suffered as a result of continuous conflict and political instability. 

“The wild population of arabica is at risk of extinction,” Christophe tells me. “It is a paradoxical situation, because at the same time that we’re discovering the genetic diversity of the country’s arabica, we are also at risk of losing it.”

Christophe adds that this is also a result of the effects of climate change and deforestation. Because of these factors, researchers are unable to acquire more genetic information on South Sudan’s wild arabica trees.

Sarada says that one of the goals of their research was to establish a gene bank, which could increase local arabica production. However, she explains that she and the other researchers have not been able to return to the country.

“It is very important that we go back and collect more gene samples from these plants, so that they are preserved and their genetic diversity is not lost,” she tells me.

Sarada explains that the research team is attempting to preserve South Sudanese arabica populations in forests and gene banks. Collections in gene banks allow the researchers to study the characteristics of this coffee, such as flavour profile, and resilience to climate change, pests, and diseases.

“We need to have more collections in gene banks for these species, as well as more policies from the government to protect coffee forests, such as the Yayu Reserve and the Kafa Biosphere Reserve,” she says. “We don’t know how resilient South Sudanese arabica is, therefore we have to protect and preserve these wild populations.”

south sudanese woman drinking coffee

Overcoming challenges in South Sudan’s coffee industry

As a result of the ongoing conflict in the country, there has not been a focus on developing infrastructure, land access, and improving farm practices in South Sudan. Co-operatives also struggle to restart operations at wet mills, which makes it more difficult to process or export coffee.

What’s more, the lack of public and private investment in South Sudan’s coffee sector has prevented any further development.

“The main challenge today is the unstable political situation, which does not allow most global markets to source coffee from South Sudan,” Delphine explains. ”We are hopeful that once the situation stabilises, we will be able to restart our programme.”

Many farmers have fled coffee-growing regions because of violence, which means coffee production has almost completely stopped. This labour shortage is also exacerbated by young people migrating to cities in search of work opportunities which they view as more economically significant.

However, there is some promise for the country’s coffee sector. In remote areas, information on planting coffee trees and mulching (applying a layer of material to the surface of soil) is freely shared with farmers via radio stations. This is especially helpful for less experienced farmers who have not received any kind of formal training.

“We’re keen to return and help farmers restart the wet mills so they can export coffee,” Paul says. “There is a big opportunity for the sector to grow. 

“We continue to provide advice and support to nurseries which are run by farmer groups and local entrepreneurs to produce coffee seedlings,” he concludes.

roasting coffee in a metal pot over an open flame

The South Sudanese government is open to coffee production as a way to diversify and boost the country’s economy, especially as it seeks to move away from oil exports.

Furthermore, with ongoing peace negotiations in the country, farmers could end up restarting exports in the years to come. In the future, the country could fulfil its potential and coffee production could provide job security and a livelihood for thousands of people.

Ultimately, while it is currently inaccessible, if things improve, South Sudan could become a more prominent coffee origin in the years to come. For that to happen, however, conflict in the country will almost certainly need to come to an end.

Enjoyed this? Then try our article on understanding coffee & direct trade in East Africa.

Photo credits: TechnoServe

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post A guide to South Sudan’s coffee sector appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
A guide to coffee production in Haiti https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/05/coffee-production-in-haiti/ Thu, 05 May 2022 05:34:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=96398 Haiti is the third-largest country in the Caribbean. The island nation became the world’s first black-led republic and the Caribbean’s first independent state in the early 19th century. Coffee production has historically been important for Haiti’s economic growth. French colonists first brought coffee plants to the island nation in the 18th century. Since then, coffee […]

The post A guide to coffee production in Haiti appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>
Haiti is the third-largest country in the Caribbean. The island nation became the world’s first black-led republic and the Caribbean’s first independent state in the early 19th century.

Coffee production has historically been important for Haiti’s economic growth. French colonists first brought coffee plants to the island nation in the 18th century.

Since then, coffee has been a staple crop for Haitian farmers. Along with sugar, coffee helped to establish the country’s agricultural economy. However, today, coffee production has fallen by the wayside somewhat, with mangoes and cocoa now the most-exported crops from the country. 

However, many people still see potential in the country’s coffee industry, despite the challenges and setbacks that its people face. I spoke with two local experts to learn more about Haitian coffee. Read on to find out what they told me.

You may also like our article on Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee.

archival photo of coffee being shipped

A brief history of coffee in Haiti

It’s largely believed that coffee was first introduced to the country around 1715, when a French naval officer brought seedlings from the island of Martinique (located southeast of Haiti). At the time, Haiti and its neighbouring country the Dominican Republic were collectively referred to as Saint-Domingue. 

Haitian coffee production steadily increased over the following decades. By the late 1780s, Saint-Domingue supplied around half of the global coffee market. As a result of this, Haiti’s economy was heavily dependent on coffee exports.

However, at that time, the country’s coffee industry was almost completely dependent on slave labour. French colonists forcibly transported African people to the island, who were made to work on coffee plantations

The working conditions on these coffee farms were appalling, and it was not uncommon for enslaved Africans to be beaten or killed by European plantation owners.

In 1791, many African slaves revolted and became self-liberated, which resulted in violent conflicts between them and plantation owners. This ultimately led to the decline of Haiti’s coffee industry, and many plantations were burned down.

There were several attempts to revive Haiti’s coffee production over the next two centuries, including in 1949 when the country temporarily became the world’s third-largest coffee producer. However, after several US-imposed trade restrictions and years of dictatorial rule, as well as a declining agricultural workforce, coffee production waned again.

Over the past few centuries, a number of natural disasters have also devastated the country and its coffee sector. In 2010, a 7.0-magnitude earthquake struck Haiti, which left around 1 million people displaced and an estimated 316,000 people dead. 

While the country was still recovering from this earthquake, another struck in 2021 – leaving 600,000 people in need of urgent humanitarian assistance.

A profile of Haitian coffee production

According to data from Index Mundi, the country’s coffee exports over the past seven years have been negligible, but small volumes of coffee are produced in its mountainous regions. These include Massif du Nord, Montagnes Noires, Chaîne des Matheux, Montagnes du Trou d’Eau, Massif de la Hotte, and Massif de la Selle.

The majority of coffee production in Haiti is organic, but this is largely not by choice. Most farmers are not able to afford expensive fertilisers or other costly farming inputs. 

Justin Dena is the Director of Development for Singing Rooster, a social enterprise that has been working with Haitian coffee farmers for over a decade. The organisation helps producers to establish better farming techniques, as well as assisting with harvesting, processing, and exporting.

“Many of the coffee plants grown in Haiti are of the Typica variety and are old,” he explains. “The trees haven’t been pruned much, so they are tall, lanky, and produce low amounts of cherries.” 

Other varieties include Caturra and Catimor, as well as Mundo Novo.

Instead of large farms and estates, Justin tells me that most coffee in the country is grown in farmers’ gardens. 

“In Haiti, much of the coffee is produced by small farmers in what is referred to as ‘creole gardens’,” he says. “In them, you will find a few coffee plants, along with bananas, cassava, papaya, other vegetables, and fruits.”

He adds that many Haitian farmers will only produce around 5kg to 10kg of cherries per year. Many farmers work with co-operatives which own washing stations, along with dry mills and green coffee storage facilities.

Gumais Jean Jacques is the founder and CEO of Kaiser Kafe in the country’s capital Port-Au-Prince.

“The co-op members are organised smallholder farmers,” he tells me. “Most large estates or private farms are owned by Haitian companies like Rebo S.A. and Selecto.

“There are also coffee plantations which have been owned by families for generations.”

Haiti’s coffee harvest generally begins in September and can sometimes last until June. Farmers harvest by hand and the cherry is delivered to wet mills for processing. 

Justin tells me that most of the country’s coffee is washed. He says that a programme in the 1990s helped to construct washing stations for many of the co-ops. However, farmers will usually opt for natural processed coffees for their own consumption. This is because producers have the infrastructure to carry this out themselves. 

Because of water shortages and the fact that washed processing coffee makes water non-potable, Justin adds that Singing Rooster has also worked with farmers to introduce honey processed coffee. They’ve also planted tens of thousands of coffee trees to help small producers scale up production.

Export and domestic consumption

“Trade in the Haitian coffee sector is led by the National Institute of Haitian Coffee (INCAH), an independent government body which falls under the Ministry of Agriculture and Natural Resources,” Gumais says. “The institute is the primary organisation for coffee research in the country.”

He adds: “Haiti is both a producing and consuming country. While we export our coffee as green beans with no real added value, roasters and major companies in the country are selling roasted coffee domestically.

“Promotion of the domestic market is carried out by traders, companies, and co-operatives.”

Some of the larger co-ops operate coffee packaging facilities and help to export coffees, but most of these work on a smaller scale.

In most cases, buyers purchase coffee directly from co-operatives that are unable to directly export themselves. There are also a number of exporting companies that buy coffee from Haitian farmers before exporting the green beans, although trade with individual Haitian farmers is usually not possible. This is because they typically produce such low volumes of coffee.

Direct trade models are also sometimes used in Haiti. Generally, a democratically elected co-op representative will oversee direct trade transactions, whereby the coffee is held until it has been paid for.

Justin tells me that most people in the country drink coffee at home, mainly because there are few coffee shops. Furthermore, most of the coffee consumed domestically is not of high enough quality for export.

However, when grown and processed to high standards, Haitian coffee can have a medium body with little acidity. It is usually described as mellow-tasting but refined.

One of the more well-known coffees produced in the country is Haitian Blue, which gets its name from the blue-grey tint it has as green coffee. This coffee is usually shade-grown and mostly undergoes washed processing.

What might the future hold?

Haiti’s long history of political instability continues to pose huge challenges to the growth of the country’s coffee industry. Furthermore, Gumais says that Haitian coffee is often rebranded as Dominican, which doesn’t allow for accurate export data.

“Stopping this from happening is an essential step towards improved sustainability and traceability,” he explains. “Furthermore, access to credit to support the whole supply chain is critically needed.”

A slew of natural disasters have rendered many Haitian coffee farms unproductive, and most farmers have little infrastructure or financial support to replant coffee trees.

However, Justin explains that Haitians are resilient, and that Singing Rooster has been working with co-ops and farmer groups for over 11 years. 

He adds that these types of long-term partnerships are important to provide access to international markets and support farmers to increase production and drive up quality.

“People in Haiti are very resilient to these incidents because they experience them so often,” he says. “Farmers also have other ways of bringing in revenue.”

In addition, Gumais tells me that the rising cost of living in Haiti is encouraging many farmers to replace coffee with other crops which are more profitable.

“The problem is that farmers receive low prices for coffee,” he says. “Also, the lack of investment in the coffee sector creates a big vacuum for Haitian leaders to expand production.”

However, there is a growing amount of interest from private entities in improving Haiti’s coffee sector. As well as providing financial support, these private stakeholders are also replacing old coffee plants with newer varieties.

As such, Gumais believes that the future of Haitian coffee lies in the specialty coffee market.

“However, without huge financial support, coffee production might drop, to the extent that Haiti could become a net importer,” he concludes.

haitian worker sorting coffee

Although it’s unlikely that Haiti’s coffee production volumes will ever come close to previous levels, there is certainly potential for growth.

Despite many farmers turning to more profitable crops, there is an increasing focus on the country’s coffee sector, especially from private stakeholders. As a result of this, we may see Haiti’s coffee production begin to grow in the years to come.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article breaking down Caribbean coffee production.

Photo credits: Singing Rooster

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post A guide to coffee production in Haiti appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

]]>