Coffee is a seasonal product, which means that it is harvested at a certain time every year. In turn, coffee producers are usually paid in a lump sum once a year when they sell their harvest.

Ultimately, this model creates a lot of instability for some farmers, as it can be difficult to financially plan for the year ahead.

To learn more about the timing of capital and how it impacts coffee producers, I spoke to four industry experts. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on how access to finance can be improved for smallholder coffee farmers.

What is capital?

In simple terms, “capital” is a term used to describe cash or financial assets which are held by a business or an individual. These assets are then used to operate the business, or expand its operations. 

A coffee farm sells goods, and is therefore a business. By selling coffee, producers generate money, with the aim of turning a profit which can be invested back into their business. Investment can take a number of different forms, including:

• Replacing ageing coffee plants
• Planting more resilient varieties
• Repairing or replacing equipment and machinery
• Installing irrigation systems
• Buying new types of fertiliser

Coffee farmers rely heavily on the success of their harvests to generate capital and obtain access to finance. So how do they receive payment? 

How are coffee farmers paid?

Luis Alberto Cuellar is a co-founder of Promising Crops. He explains that farmers are generally paid annually in a lump sum after they sell their coffee.

“The time of harvest largely determines when the end product (or coffee) will be delivered and sold,” he says. “Very few coffee producers can afford to hold their coffee and sell it after the harvest season, although this model does work in some countries like Brazil.” 

Luis also notes that farmers are paid when a local buyer purchases their coffee.

“The final product can come in several forms,” he says. “Farmers can sell cherry, wet and/or dry parchment, or green coffee. 

“The type of coffee sold mostly depends on the region or country, as well as the mechanisms which local buyers use,” he adds. 

Moreover, the prices which farmers receive (also known as the farmgate price) typically doesn’t cover a number of additional costs which some farmers have to absorb, such as milling, transportation, or exportation fees. 

In turn, farmers often receive a lower price than what was paid at processing mills or to coffee traders. Ultimately, this means farmers are generally unable to retain as much value as possible.

Why do coffee farmers need access to finance?

Compared to other businesses in the coffee supply chain, producers don’t typically hold much capital at any given time – especially smallholder farmers. This can lead to a number of challenges, including investing in farming inputs such as fertilisers and new equipment, as well as efforts to improve coffee quality.

Herbert Peñaloza Correa is the Director of Operations at 575 Café.

“Having access to finance equips you to leverage all necessary resources to operate a farm,” he explains. “For example, if you want to successfully plant a new field of coffee, you need at least US $5,000 per ha. 

“Furthermore, it will take at least three years of successful harvests to recoup that investment,” he adds. “For newer coffee farmers, you also have to buy land and invest in infrastructure, but many producers don’t have the financial resources to do so.”

Capital can cover more immediate, short-term needs, as well as mitigating the risk of unforeseen circumstances. These can include an unpredicted loss in yields or extreme weather conditions which affect harvesting.

In coffee production, financial resources such as credit facilities and loans can also cover long-term needs, as Luis explains:

“In countries like Colombia, coffee farmers have access to finance models to establish farms, build facilities, and purchase new equipment,” he says. “There are also farm renewal programmes, which are available every seven years.” 

However, not every origin country has similar financial support, which leads some producers to obtain credit facilities or loans from banks.

Willem Boot is the founder and CEO of Boot Coffee. He explains how this can lead to a number of issues.

“These loans typically have high interest rates,” he tells me. “In the case of smallholder farmers who don’t own land, they don’t have any collateral for a loan, [which can make accessing one difficult].”

Why is the timing of capital so important?

Finance can provide the necessary working capital to cover the costs associated with coffee production, which can help to improve a farm’s efficiency and profitability.

However, the timing of receiving capital can often be sporadic, which makes both short term and long term planning difficult. Herbert explains some of the ways in which farmers can receive payment in Colombia:

• Payment is made promptly upon delivery if producers sell coffee based on the daily C market price
• If they sell to a coffee dealer or trader, the payment can take up to a few months after the delivery of coffee
• Producers receive payments in advance if they are a member of a co-operative

Ultimately, the type of agreement depends heavily on who is selling and who is buying coffee. For example, larger buyers will typically dictate whether payments are made upfront or later on. 

Planning for the future

If a farmer does not receive payments upfront, they may find it more difficult to plan for the months and years ahead. This is especially concerning when you consider that many producers already have to work with one lump sum – rather than regular weekly or monthly income – for up to a year. This can present a number of challenges if urgent repairs or maintenance costs arise throughout the year.

Willem says that between 70% and 80% of the world’s coffee producers are smallholders. This makes finance difficult to come by, for all the aforementioned reasons. As a result, this means that the majority of the world’s coffee farmers are unable to leverage capital to reinvest in their farms.

Not only does this mean that producers aren’t able to invest in the quality or yield of their coffee plants, but it can also mean that they aren’t earning a stable living income – impacting their and their family’s livelihoods.

What about direct trade models?

Willem says that opportunities to engage in direct trade can create risks for some smallholder farmers who have little capital or access to financial resources. Ultimately, without a financial safety net, some farmers aren’t able to hold onto their coffee to wait to receive higher prices.

“It’s like a tradeoff,” he explains. “A coffee farmer may not have the time to wait for the best possible price from the best possible buyer.” 

Is pre-financing a long-term solution? 

Pre-financing is when a producer takes out a loan to cover costs in advance over a fixed period of time before they receive payment from a buyer.

Access to pre-financing can vary depending on the producing country, or even the farm. Willem explains that with bigger farms in countries like Ethiopia, it’s common for banks to finance infrastructure investments on a farm. With this model, a coffee farmer will pre-invest 30% of total costs themselves, while the bank will finance the remaining 70%. 

Some coffee producers may also establish relationships with lenders or investors who are willing to pre-finance their operations on a regular basis. However, it’s important to note that not all farmers have equal access to this opportunity, especially smallholders who might not have access to the necessary cashflow or collateral.

Willem believes that one of the most sustainable, long-term solutions is to provide training for farmers so they can better understand how financial structures in coffee production work. In turn, Willem says this can better mitigate risks and enable producers to make more informed decisions, too.

Crop diversification

Judith Ganes is the founder and president of J. Ganes Consulting. She explains that crop diversification can be a way for farmers to improve capital. 

“In Brazil, many coffee farmers also plant black pepper, mango, and soybeans to provide additional income,” she says. “For instance, soybeans can be harvested and sold after five months.

“Growing coffee requires a three-year investment, so there is ultimately more risk,” she adds.

As with any business, the timing of capital plays a crucial role in how a coffee farm operates. Moreover, it has a big impact on its profitability and financial success, too.

When we discuss how we can make the coffee industry more sustainable, it’s clear that rethinking how and when coffee farmers are paid should be an integral topic for the future.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why affordable finance is so important for coffee producers.

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Most of India’s coffee-growing regions are located in the southern part of the country, with some smaller “non-traditional” areas in the northeast.

In the first week of December 2022, many producers in the south of India had already started harvesting their coffee, with plenty more set to begin in the weeks ahead. However, when Cyclone Mandous hit southern India, it caused a significant amount of damage to some of the country’s largest coffee-growing areas, including Tamil Nadu. 

The storm has resulted in a number of short-term problems for Indian coffee farmers, including damaging ripe cherries. However, more concerningly, the impact of the cyclone raises questions about how India’s coffee sector is able to cope with the medium and long-term effects of climate change.

Bhavi Patel is a dairy technologist and food and travel writer, who has been writing extensively about the global coffee industry for some years now.

In this article, she explores the impact of unpredictable weather on Indian coffee farmers, and how they are recovering following recent storms.  

You may also like our article on how coffee producers can prepare for unexpected weather.

An overview of coffee production in India

According to data from the Coffee Board of India, between 2020 and 2021, over 471,000ha of land was used to grow coffee in the country. India grows both robusta and arabica, with the former accounting for around 70% of the country’s coffee production.

Along the eastern coast and southern peninsula of the country, there are “traditional” and “non-traditional” coffee-growing areas. The three largest coffee-growing regions in the country are Karnataka, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu, which are all located in the south.

Smaller non-traditional growing regions (which have been recently developed for coffee production) are also located in northeast India.

Smallholders account for up to 98% of the country’s coffee farmers. This means these producers own or work on smaller parcels of land – and can sometimes mean they have less access to infrastructure and financial resources, although this isn’t always the case.

The vast majority of Indian coffee is shade grown. This has a number of benefits, including allowing plants to grow in lower temperatures.

Cooler temperatures allow coffee cherries to ripen more slowly, which gives them more time to fully develop their sugars. In turn, this means that Indian coffee is generally fuller-bodied and has more complex flavours.

The impact of recent storms on India’s coffee harvest

Given its geographical location, India is prone to experiencing erratic and extreme weather conditions. Cyclones are among the most prominent.

In simple terms, a cyclone is a large mass of air which rotates around a core of low atmospheric pressure. Generally speaking, they cause intense winds and heavy rainfall, which can have a devastating effect on both urban and rural populations – the latter of which is especially vulnerable to the impact of climate change, as well as where agriculture is also a major source of income for many people.

On 10 December 2022, Cyclone Mandous – the third most intense tropical storm of the 2022 North Indian Ocean Cyclone season – hit north Tamil Nadu. This resulted in heavy rainfall and sustained winds up to 65km and 85km per hour during the rest of the month.

During mid-December 2022, certain areas of India’s southern coffee-growing regions received up to three inches of rainfall in a week, which caused a number of problems for coffee producers.

Insight from local producers

Sundaresh is a producer at Pathinipara Estate, Pampadumpara in the southern state of Kerala.

“We received about 2.5 inches of rainfall in just five days,” he says. “The total number of ‘floaters’ [unripe cherries which rise to the top of floatation tanks] and lighter dried cherries which split open on branches also increased from 7% to 20%, which is a huge loss for us.”

While high levels of rainfall during the flowering and ripening stages are critical to the healthy development of coffee cherries, it can have serious consequences when farmers are harvesting their coffee. It’s especially important for coffee drying, too – warm, dry conditions are best for this, and rainfall can cause difficulties.

Pranoy Thipaiah is the Managing Partner at the Kerehaklu Plantation in Karnataka. He tells me that over the past few years, erratic weather conditions have become more common.

“Cyclones and other extreme weather patterns are happening more regularly, so we need to be proactive in becoming more climate resilient,” he says.

Unexpected weather patterns can also affect the ripening stages in other ways, such as causing both ripe and unripe cherries to fall off plants or split open. 

Pranathi Shetty is a producer at Kolliberri the Coffee Farm in Karnataka. 

“The heavy rains from Cyclone Mandous accelerated the ripening process of many of our plants,” she says. “We had already finished harvesting about 30% of our plants when the cyclone hit, but then suddenly, all of the cherries ripened – even ones which were only semi-ripe a week ago.

“Because of the high humidity and rainfall, some cherries still attached to branches also split open,” she adds. 

What does this mean for coffee farmers?

D.S. Shravan is a partner at Kalledevarapura Coffee and Beanrove Coffee Roasters.

“We started harvesting about a fortnight before Cyclone Mandous hit,” he says. “The varieties which tend to ripen later on, such as Chandragiri, started to ripen much earlier because of the weather conditions.

“Moreover, a lot of cherries were splitting open, and they started to dry on the branches once the sun rose,” he adds.

Nisha Thomas is a producer at Anai Kadu – Pottamkulam C Estate. 

“Shorter flowering and ripening periods means that the cherries will absorb less nutrition,” she says.

Rohan Kuriyan is a producer at Balanoor Plantations. He explains that these issues can have serious consequences for Indian coffee farmers.

“The quantity of high-quality parchment reduces, the volume of cherry increases, and there will be a higher percentage of floaters,” he says. “This is disastrous for us economically, especially as the cost of farming inputs has increased this year, but also because we have already applied all the nutrients to the plants and carried out farming best practices, and now our plants are damaged.”

Navin Rajes is a producer at MSP Coffee in Yercaud, Tamil Nadu.

“We lost about 20% of our crop because of fallen cherries,” he says. “Picking fallen cherries increases labour costs by about five times, but not all of them can be processed.”

Ultimately, to avoid mould growth and attracting pests, farmers need to collect fallen cherries as soon as possible, which means they may need to invest more money to hire pickers. Moreover, pickers in India usually receive payment per kilogram of cherry. So, when cherries swell, they become heavier, which can mean that producers end up paying more money for lower yields.

Support for local producers

It’s clear that erratic and extreme weather conditions are causing a number of issues for some of India’s coffee farmers. Moreover, because of wet and humid conditions, it could lead to more challenges in the future.

To combat these issues, Indian coffee producers have taken a number of actions, including:

• Using large industrial fans to keep coffee cherries dry.
• Covering their harvested cherry and coffee plants to protect them from heavy rainfall.
• Hiring more labourers, so that farm workers can more regularly rake and spread out coffee, thereby helping it dry more quickly.

However, because most Indian coffee is shade grown, tree canopies help to provide natural protection from heavy rainfall and winds, as well as minimising soil erosion.

Navin, meanwhile, believes that improving the climate resilience of India’s coffee sector is essential to secure its future.

“We need to be able to adapt better to changing weather patterns,” he says. “This means reworking our regular farming practices, which can be a long and tedious process, but it’s the only way forward for farmers in our area.

“Investing in infrastructure more will serve to protect the harvested cherries, as well standardising post-harvest processing,” he adds.

Understanding the impact of climate change

According to the United Nations’ latest Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report, India is one of the most climate-vulnerable countries in the world. Estimates suggest that its exposure to more extreme weather has led to a 16% loss in GDP over the past two decades – and its agricultural sector is by far the most vulnerable to this.

“We need to focus on building better infrastructure to safeguard our coffee,” D.S. Shravan says. “We can’t undo the damage caused by climate change, but we can work towards being better prepared – it’s the only way forward.”

As part of this, one of the solutions could be developing and disseminating more climate-resilient varieties in the Indian coffee sector. Organisations such as World Coffee Research have recently launched new projects to provide more support on these efforts, but it’s clear that more work needs to be done.

“These varieties could help to improve yields in India as we cope with the effects of climate change,” Pranathi says.

The growing impact of climate change means that weather conditions in India – and other coffee-producing countries – will continue to become more erratic and extreme.

“Weather conditions like this are becoming a regular occurrence in many parts of the world,” Rohan says. “The monsoon seasons are getting longer, and unpredictable rainfall is becoming more common every year during harvests. 

“Research and collaboration is critical to the survival of the Indian coffee sector,” he concludes.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why frost in Brazil in 2021 caused global coffee prices to rise.

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The latter is an indication that global demand for robusta has been increasing in recent months – thanks in part to rising arabica prices in 2021 and 2022, which have since fallen to around US 180 cents/lb.

Despite this growth in demand, compared to arabica, robusta has historically been perceived as lower-quality coffee. However, it’s important to distinguish the differences between the two in terms of production – and how this results in a different product for both roasters and consumers.

Moreover, with the impact of climate change threatening the future of the coffee industry as we know it today, investing in robusta production is becoming more and more essential. This is especially pertinent considering that robusta is much more climate-resilient than arabica.  

So, in light of this, how has robusta production developed in recent years, and how can improving robusta farming practices benefit both producers and roasters? To find out, I spoke with four people at one of the biggest global green coffee importers, Mercon Coffee Group.

You may also like our article on whether coffee roasters should add robusta to blends if arabica prices increase.

An overview of robusta production

In addition to three of the world’s top five coffee-producing countries, robusta is also grown in many other origins. These include India and Uganda (where it can sometimes grow at similar altitudes to arabica). However, more recently, robusta has also been growing in Nicaragua.

Robusta tends to have a higher yield per plant than arabica and is typically more resistant to a number of pests and diseases. In turn, this means it is usually cheaper for coffee farmers to grow robusta.

Although it is also theoretically easier for producers to grow robusta, there is a gap when it comes to formal agricultural best practices in commercial robusta production. This significantly contributes to the perception that commercial robusta is of lower quality than arabica, as there are fewer quality control measures along the supply chain.

However, it’s vital that we differentiate between commodity-grade and fine robusta. While there is little regard to quality with the former, the latter focuses on much stricter standards.

For example, according to the Fine Robusta Standards and Protocols, fine robusta should have no primary defects (such as fungus damage or full black beans) and no more than five secondary defects (including broken or partial sour beans).

Ultimately, these standards help to establish fine robusta as a unique product which is significantly higher-quality than commercial robusta.

Why is improving robusta quality so important?

Although arabica is generally of higher quality than robusta, it is significantly less climate-resilient.

In recent years, this is becoming an increasingly pressing issue in the coffee industry. According to a 2022 study, as a result of rising temperatures due to climate change, researchers predict that the world’s top five producing countries will experience a reduction in both the size and suitability of their coffee-growing areas by 2050.

If levels of carbon emissions are to remain the same, this could have a major impact on the global coffee industry – especially considering that arabica accounts for 60% to 70% of the global coffee supply and is much more vulnerable to temperature fluctuations.

Neil Oney is a green coffee quality specialist at Mercon Specialty.

“As the effects of climate change worsen, we may see fewer farmers growing arabica,” he tells me. “Arabica production requires more stable environmental conditions than growing robusta.

“Moreover, you can grow robusta at sea level,” he adds. “Therefore, we might see more arabica farmers located at lower altitudes switch to growing robusta.”

Another issue that is likely to become more prominent as weather patterns get more erratic is the threat of pests and diseases. For example, cases of coffee leaf rust (also known as la roya), which is a result of a fungus, are likely to rise if rainfall and humidity levels increase and become more unpredictable.

With robusta naturally being more resistant to pests and diseases, the need to invest in implementing best agricultural practices is essential.

“The more that we work to improve robusta quality, the more that consumers will start to demand it – which is beneficial to everyone in the coffee supply chain,” Neil says.

So, how is robusta grown in Nicaragua?

Robusta is grown in many countries, so there is significant potential to improve how it is produced around the world.

Mario Hurtado is the Agricultural Division Manager at Mercon in Nicaragua. He tells me that on the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua in Central America, Mercon Specialty is working with more than 1,000 producers to implement agricultural best practices to improve robusta quality.

“Fifteen years ago, robusta production in Nicaragua didn’t exist, so robusta is still relatively new to most farmers here,” he says. “In the years since, we have been working to develop robusta production, as well as conducting research into a number of variables, including which varieties to plant, different harvesting and drying techniques, and the quantity and types of farming inputs to use, to name a few.

“Today, producers have a lot of knowledge and experience about how to successfully grow robusta, but we are still learning how to improve yields, coffee quality, and profitability even further,” he adds.

John Gardina is the Director of Sales Americas at Mercon.

“Robusta production in Nicaragua has improved significantly in recent years,” he says. “According to our data, the country will produce around 120,000 60kg bags of robusta in 2022/23, which will be the first year ever that robusta production rises above 100,000 60kg bags.”

How has the country’s robusta production changed over the years?

This is especially significant for Nicaraguan coffee farmers. Before 2016, the country had strict laws on how close robusta could be grown to arabica, which meant producers had to plant robusta no less than 30km away from arabica, as well as other geographical and altitudinal restrictions.

Adolfo Lugo is the Origin Corporate Manager at Mercon. He explains that this law is still enforced to help preserve the quality of the coffee produced in Nicaragua, but in the years since, it has been modified several times.

He also tells me that in regions that were historically used to raise cattle, many farmers decided to start growing coffee, but they had very little infrastructure and support. In these cases, he says Mercon’s LIFT Program has helped local farmers to build their capacity for coffee production.

“The LIFT initiative has been fundamental to improving the quality of robusta,” he says, adding that farmers who take part in the LIFT platform should complete up to 26 courses that focus on sustainable coffee production, social development, and environmental impact. 

He explains that as part of the LIFT platform, Mercon also provides technical support, as well as access to finance and certifications. Moreover, he tells me that Mercon encourages producers to grow robusta at lower altitudes on degraded pastures which are located away from arabica farms.

John tells me that cultivating different varieties of robusta is further advancing overall quality.

“Through our seedlings project in Nicaragua, we have cloned certain robusta varieties,” he explains. “This has helped us to disseminate higher-quality robusta seedlings to local producers, which not only produce higher yields, but also produce a similar cup profile to what roasters are looking for.”

Improving harvesting techniques

Mario explains that an understanding of terroir is especially important for growing high-quality robusta.

“In the regions where Mercon helps producers grow robusta in Nicaragua, conditions such as soil quality, rainfall, and temperature all help to improve the quality of the coffee,” he tells me.

John adds that developments in harvesting have also helped to increase robusta quality.

“Typically, when harvesting robusta, producers will strip all cherries off the branch,” he says. “However, when they adhere to harvesting best practices, producers pick only the ripe cherries.

“It’s more time-consuming and expensive to do it this way, but it significantly improves robusta quality,” he adds.

How does improving robusta quality benefit producers and roasters?

Ultimately, with more and more arabica farmers facing the threat of climate change, developing new techniques to grow higher-quality coffee is one way of safeguarding the future of the industry. But how does it benefit both producers and roasters?

“In the region of Nueva Guinea, although cattle rearing is still the biggest generator of income, robusta farming is more labour intensive, so it has helped to create more jobs for local people,” Adolfo says.

John agrees, saying: “Robusta production has brought prosperity to the region – for example, new roads are being built.

“More and more people are requesting seedlings from us, which clearly shows that robusta production is providing economic benefits,” he adds. “Mercon also has an office and a mill in the region, so we’re also providing financial support and technical assistance.”

“For Nicaraguan farmers, learning how to grow robusta has been a slow and costly learning curve,” Mario says. “There has been plenty of trial and error, however, a few years ago, we developed a set of agricultural best practices which have been working effectively.”

For roasters, meanwhile, there are many benefits to including more robusta as part of their offerings. These include reducing costs – especially when the C price or operational costs are especially high.

“When using fine robusta, roasters can add it to blends to reduce their costs,” Neil says. “Furthermore, because roasters are paying more for higher-quality robusta, farmers are also receiving more equitable prices.

“Some years ago, some roasters didn’t believe that Nicaragua produces robusta,” he adds. “It’s been challenging to convince people to buy robusta, but there is growing interest from specialty roasters.”

Fine robusta – a marketing tool?

As well as being a dependable component for specialty coffee blends, fine robusta can also be a unique selling point for roasters to market as single origin coffees.

“Fine robusta can have many desirable characteristics, such as notes of chocolate, fruit, and spice, as well as clean-tasting flavours, which represents some of the robusta we are growing in Nueva Guinea, Nicaragua,” John says. “It can also add complexity, thereby creating a new product which the roaster might not have offered before.”

“Mercon is also focusing on honey processed robustas, which are gaining more interest from the specialty coffee sector,” Neil concludes.

Despite historical misconceptions about commercial robusta being lower quality, there is undoubtedly potential for coffee farmers to grow more fine robusta. As long as they receive the right support and assistance, robusta producers can implement farming best practices and thereby improve overall quality.

And with the effects of climate change continuing to pose a threat to the future of the global coffee industry, investing in robusta production has never been more important.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on trends in experimental coffee processing.

Photo credits: Mercon Coffee Group

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Coffee grows in a number of states and regions of Brazil, but some of the most well-known include Minas Gerais, São Paulo, and Espírito Santo. However, alongside this, small quantities of coffee also grow in the Amazon rainforest – 60% of which is located in Brazil.

For decades now, large-scale agriculture has resulted in high levels of deforestation in the Amazon rainforest. Trees are typically cut down to make space for commercial cattle grazing, as well as large-scale production of crops such as soybean and corn.

In line with this, we have to ask: does coffee production also contribute to conservation issues in the Amazon? And if so, what can be done to mitigate this problem?

To find out, I spoke with Marina Yasbek, Technical Co-ordinator of the Apuí Agroforestry Coffee Project at Idesam, and Fred Pearce, author of The Land Grabbers: The New Fight Over Who Owns the Earth. Read on to learn more about sustainable coffee production in the Amazon.

You may also like our article addressing deforestation in coffee production.

Coffee production and deforestation in the Amazon

Firstly, it’s important to note that cutting down trees can be a form of sustainable forestry in some cases – especially when carried out on a small scale. For example, if smallholder farmers plant trees and then harvest them for wood, they might replant the trees at a later date.

Although it is difficult to accurately determine how much global coffee production contributes to deforestation, there is clear evidence that it occurs in coffee-growing regions, including in Brazil.

By 1820, coffee farms were common in parts of the country, mainly around Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, as well as the states of Minas Gerais, Espiríto Santo, and the northern regions of Paraná. Over the following two decades, Brazil became the biggest producer of coffee in the world. 

Naturally, as part of this, coffee production became much more widespread. This meant large areas of land were cleared to grow coffee plants, which were usually monocropped and grown in full sun conditions – leading to a significant decrease in biodiversity in certain parts of the country.

It’s believed that coffee production was first established in the Amazon rainforest in the 1970s, mostly in areas of the forest located in the state of Rondônia. 

“During this time, coffee-growing families migrated here from Southern Brazil, and brought their coffee knowledge with them,” Marina tells me. “Prior to large-scale agriculture taking place, there were many families living in the Amazon who grew crops in harmony with nature.”

Environmental issues in coffee production in the Amazon

As well as coffee production, overall agricultural production increased in the Amazon, which led to a number of environmental issues, including soil degradation and erosion.

Although these issues can be problematic in any region of the world, they are considerably more detrimental when they take place in the Amazon rainforest. 

According to the World Wildlife Federation, the Amazon accounts for 10% of all tropical rainforest on the planet. Moreover, it is also home to 10% of all known wildlife species and stores up to 76 billion tonnes of carbon dioxide – which helps to mitigate the effects of climate change. 

Between 1985 and 2016, it’s estimated that some 421,774km of the Amazon rainforest were deforested. This reduces the amount of habitable land for thousands of tropical species of animal and plant life, reduces biodiversity, and displaces both indigenous and non-indigenous local communities.

Are there any environmental protection in place?

There have been a number of policies and laws implemented by the Brazilian government to curb deforestation – including the 1965 Forest Code, which was updated in 2012. This law required landowners in the Amazon to maintain between 35% and 80% of their property (depending on the size and location of their land) as native vegetation.

Historically, however, it has been difficult to implement and monitor this policy. As a result, in 2010, all properties in the Amazon rainforest were forced to register with the Cadastro Ambiental Rural (CAR) – a government mapping system used to monitor deforestation. 

However, whether these changes have been effective is difficult to accurately determine. Moreover, they can also impact indigenous communities who have been present in the Amazon rainforest for years the most – unfairly displacing them from their native land.

What is land grabbing?

While deforestation has a clear impact on the environment, another key issue is the concept of “land grabbing”.

Essentially, land grabbing is the large-scale acquisition of property and land – usually by domestic or transnational companies, private investors, and governments. The acquired land is then bought or leased, mostly for large-scale agriculture.

Fred tells me that in the Amazon rainforest, land grabbing and deforestation go hand in hand.

“Typically, land and forests (which are usually owned by the state) are cleared for raising cattle,” he says. “The land can also be sold to commercial agricultural companies, including those which grow soy.”

Land grabbing in Brazil can be traced back to a policy in the 1970s which saw the government offer “free” land to mining and farming companies to stimulate economic growth. Since then, it’s estimated that up to 32% of Brazil’s “undesignated public forests” have been land grabbed for private use, including for agriculture.

Undoubtedly, this leads to rising levels of deforestation, environmental damage, and the displacement of indigenous people – including small-scale farming communities who help to conserve local wildlife.

“Land grabbing on state land can be legal, or legally ambiguous, but large areas of forest within indigenous territories are land grabbed illegally,” Fred tells me. 

Has land grabbing become more common?

There is also evidence that previous Brazilian governments have made it easier for large-scale companies and investors to grab land. In 2017, the Brazilian government reclassified over 1,000 square miles of land in the southern State of Amazonas as legal to grab. According to research from The Conversation, out of all illegal CAR claims for undesignated public lands and rural settlements in 2014, 94% of them were reclassified as legal in 2017.

Moreover, there is also evidence that between 2018 and 2022, deforestation across Brazil increased under the previous government’s rule. According to Reuters, average deforestation rates in that four-year period rose by some 60% compared to the previous four years.

However, the current government has claimed it will work towards zero deforestation in Brazil. This includes plans to develop a conservation agreement with the Indonesian and Congolese governments – two countries which are also home to some of the largest rainforests in the world. But whether these plans are actually implemented, especially given recent political instability in Brazil, remains to be seen.

Is coffee production in the Amazon sustainable?

Although most deforestation in the Amazon rainforest is carried out for commercial cattle grazing and agricultural purposes, coffee production is a part of the conversation, too.

For the most part, coffee is grown on a very small scale in the Amazon, which means its environmental impact is much lower compared to large-scale farming. In fact, in some cases, it can even be beneficial to the local ecosystem – especially when farmers use agroforestry methods.

This practice involves growing crops (including coffee) among trees and woodland, which can have a number of benefits to both farmers and the environment.

For instance, agroforestry ensures that coffee plants (and other crops) grow in more shady conditions. This can help to improve soil health and minimise erosion, which in turn can increase yields, as well as coffee quality and flavour.

Moreover, these farming practices provide more natural shelter for local wildlife, which can increase pollination, help to improve soil health, and even create natural systems for pest control.

Agroforestry projects in the Amazon

There are a number of agroforestry initiatives taking place in the Amazon rainforest. One of the first projects established in the region was the Apuí Coffee Project, which launched in 2015. The project is a partnership between the Institute of Conservation and Sustainable Development of the Amazon (Idesam) and 30 coffee-growing families living in Apuí, South Amazonas.

Although coffee production was initially successful in the Amazon, many farmers eventually abandoned their plots because of soil degradation, as well as their lack of access to proper farming equipment.

“Moreover, many local families told us they want to grow coffee again, but the lack of market access and technical assistance means that it’s not profitable for them,” Marina says. “They already have the knowledge to work with coffee, but it needs to be as sustainable as possible.

“As a result, Idesam helped these families to establish agroforestry projects,” she adds. “If you grow coffee using no chemical farming inputs, you can work in harmony with nature.”

Marina adds that these agroforestry practices have also helped local families to grow coffee in a more profitable way, too.

“Some families have achieved organic certification, which can strengthen their branding and marketing,” she explains.

Addressing challenges

Despite the many benefits of agroforestry in coffee production, there are also a number of challenges which farmers in the Amazon have to face.

“Now more than ever, the land in this region has a higher value,” Marina says. “For example, in Apuí, families from other regions of Brazil are trying to buy land here because they want to rear cattle.”

She adds that this is because demand for beef and other meat products is rising in line with population growth and global meat consumption. 

Farmers who are part of the Apuí Coffee Project grow 100% robusta, which is better suited to grow in shady conditions at lower altitudes. This can help to improve overall quality, however, Marina says that quality can vary between producers.

To combat this issue, Idesam runs workshops and provides technical assistance to support producers in carrying out farming best practices.

“We sell all the coffee that we grow, but we need more producers to be involved in the work that we do,” she adds. “Coffee production can be an effective way for local and native families to remain on their land, as well as maintaining the forest and wildlife.”

Sustainability continues to be a major focus across the coffee industry, and fighting deforestation is a significant component of this.

Moreover, with the European Union recently agreeing on a new law to ban the imports of goods linked to deforestation, including coffee, it will soon become financially mandatory for coffee companies to ensure they are doing their part.

The impact of this anti-deforestation law on the global coffee sector is monumental, but for some communities involved in coffee production in the Amazon, it is already a reality.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on environmentally sustainable coffee production & profitability.

Photo credits: Idesam

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Naturally, large-scale agricultural production can sometimes be at odds with environmental conservation and protection efforts – often because of links to deforestation and poor farm management, for instance.

However, as the demand for sustainably-grown coffee continues to rise, more and more efforts are being made by industry stakeholders to support farmers to reduce the environmental impact of coffee production.

What’s more, as the impact of climate change continues to threaten the future of the coffee sector, these sustainable efforts are now more important than ever.

To find out how we can acknowledge and begin to resolve environmental issues in coffee production, I spoke with three industry experts. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article environmentally sustainable coffee production & profitability.

Understanding the environmental issues associated with coffee production

First and foremost, it should be noted that the vast majority of environmental issues in coffee production are a result of large-scale farming. 

Although it’s estimated that smallholder farmers produce up to 80% of the world’s coffee supply, most of them only grow coffee on 30ha or less – meaning their carbon footprints are minimal compared to larger coffee farms and multinational coffee companies.

Ultimately, this means accounting for environmental issues is largely the responsibility of these companies – not producers.

However, while there is a growing number of sustainable programmes being implemented on coffee farms, that doesn’t mean there aren’t some environmental issues stemming from coffee production.

Steffen Sauer is the founder of Ulinzi Africa Foundation, a non-profit that works with park rangers in East Africa to protect local wildlife.

“Conservation and environmental protection are problems in the coffee industry, but they are not unique to this sector,” he explains. “These are issues in all major, large-scale agricultural industries because of economies of scale.”

A 2021 study from University College London found that after the export of coffee, production was responsible for the second-highest total volume of carbon emissions across the supply chain. This is because in many cases the transport of coffee is reliant on fossil fuels to some extent, as coffee is generally shipped to consuming countries on large freight vessels.

However, beyond emissions, we also have to consider other environmental issues. For instance, the incorrect use of chemicals and agricultural inputs on larger farms can be an environmental concern. If applied incorrectly, chemicals such as fertilisers and pesticides can cause serious damage to the environment and surrounding wildlife. 

Overuse of these chemicals on a large scale can lead to a decline in soil health, as well as groundwater contamination and eutrophication. This is when bodies of water become overly saturated with nutrients and minerals, particularly nitrogen and phosphorus. Ultimately, this can kill animals, insects, fish, and birds.

Deforestation is also another problem for large-scale agriculture, as it leads to a significant loss of habitat for local wildlife and can accelerate the desertification of arable land.

“Conservation is not just about protecting animals, but also their habitats,” Steffen adds. “There are a lot of synergies between conservation and coffee; the two are interlinked.”

Around the world – including in major coffee-growing regions – an estimated average of 13 million hectares of forest are lost per year. Not only does this destroy habitats for animals, insects, and birds, it also means there are fewer trees to sequester carbon.

This is especially concerning, as experts are already predicting that if carbon emissions remain as they are now, by 2050 as much as half of all global arabica-growing land could be unsuitable. 

What about coffee processing?

Processing is a key part of preparing coffee for export, as well as preserving quality. The two main methods are washed and natural processing.

Ritesh Doshi is the CEO of Spring Valley Coffee in Kenya. He explains the differences between the two in terms of environmental issues.

“Washed coffee can be easier to sell in my experience, but wet processing uses [significantly more water than natural processing],” he says. “Natural processing, however, results in almost no wastewater.”

Again, it’s important to note that in comparison with large-scale agriculture, smallholder farmers are responsible for significantly lower amount of harmful byproducts and a tiny volume of wastewater, if any. 

Natural processing is arguably the most environmentally-friendly processing technique, as it is less energy-intensive and requires little to no water. This is because the cherries are harvested and then left to dry fully intact on patios or raised beds.  

Washed coffee, meanwhile, needs a significant volume of water – which can make it a less sustainable processing method. The cherries are submerged in water tanks before they are depulped (or wet milled), which involves removing the seeds from the skin and fruit of the cherry.

Although washed processing can result in a cleaner-tasting coffee, it also produces larger volumes of wastewater than natural processing. However, even if a smallholder producer is exclusively carrying out washed processing, they alone are unlikely to cause a significant amount of harm to the environment.

Jesse Winters is the founder of Conservation Coffee, which sources shade-grown coffee from organic farms.

“[If the wastewater is not managed correctly], it can pollute rivers, streams, and lakes which increases the bioload,” he tells me. “This can be devastating to marine [and freshwater] wildlife.”

A high bioload can lead to eutrophication, as mentioned earlier, which in turn causes phytoplankton like algae to grow. This prevents oxygen and sunlight from reaching below the surface of the water – potentially killing fish and other wildlife.

Pulp is another byproduct of coffee processing to consider, no matter which method is used. Much like wastewater, if not discarded improperly, pulp can pollute land and water systems, too.

What about the rest of the supply chain?

While coffee farmers can be encouraged to use more organic fertilisers or manage waste in a more sustainable way, environmental efforts in the coffee industry need to go far beyond this.

It goes without saying that all supply chain actors need to take on more responsibility for reducing the environmental impact of the coffee industry.

Firstly, we need to recognise that beyond production and export, there are other areas of the supply chain which are responsible for environmental issues.

Roasting can produce greenhouse gas emissions, such as carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. While some modern roasters now include built-in air recycling systems, older models typically emit these gases into the atmosphere.

Furthermore, the volume of waste produced by coffee shops (especially single-use cups) is a major concern for many people. It can be anywhere from difficult to impossible to recycle single-use coffee cups, and many are sent to landfill as a result. In these anaerobic conditions, it can take hundreds of years for these cups to break down.

Steffen believes that some of the responsibility to reduce environmental impact lies with consumers.

“Consumers need to demand higher quality, but they also need to be willing to pay for it,” he tells me. “They should pay for the quality they want to have, and they should purchase coffee that does not cause any damage to the environment.

“Individual decisions play a big role,” he adds. “For example, consumers can put pressure on bigger companies to be more mindful of the environment.”

In recent years, many larger coffee companies have pledged to offset their emissions and reduce their environmental impact, including Starbucks and Nespresso. However, it’s evident that more work needs to be done – especially when these companies still make a significant contribution to the amount of waste produced.

Ritesh agrees, saying: “We need people in the bigger companies adding more value – farmers also need to add pressure to these companies.”

Other key industry stakeholders also need to play a part, as legislation and policies can help to bolster conservation efforts in coffee production. For instance, the European Union recently enforced new mandatory due diligence rules on exporters and traders so they will gradually stop sourcing coffee which is linked to deforestation at origin.

“Government legislation can help, but change ultimately needs to be led by forward-thinking businesses and consumers,” Ritesh says.

Considering the solutions

In order to implement more environmental protection efforts at origin, we must acknowledge that actors all across the supply chain have a responsibility to support sustainability initiatives in coffee-producing countries.

Some farmers are shifting towards more environmentally-friendly agricultural practices, such as syntropic farming and agroforestry.

Growing coffee under shade trees, for instance, is proven to produce higher-quality coffee across the board, while also promoting biodiversity. This can also provide farmers with natural pest control methods, as birds and small animals can eat insects which interfere with coffee plants.

As well as this, increasing the number of shade-grown coffee plants encourages less deforestation, sequesters more carbon dioxide, and generally requires fewer chemical inputs, such as fertilisers.

Ritesh tells me that Spring Valley partners with a conservation programme. He says for every bag of coffee sold, 50% of gross profit is donated to the programme.

“We work with Seedballs Kenya,” he explains. “Using this money, we plant five indigenous tree seedlings in an area that we source from.”

As for processing methods, proper management techniques can help to recycle or reuse wastewater and discarded pulp. When treated correctly, wastewater can be used to irrigate coffee plants or can be added back into natural water sources. Similarly, when managed properly, coffee pulp can be repurposed as biofuel or organic fertiliser.

However, for many producers (mostly smallholder farmers) these changes may require a significant financial investment, and may not immediately pay dividends. For instance, while organic farming can be more sustainable, it may also result in smaller yields, meaning producers might not receive as much income.

Larger coffee companies also have a major role to play in reducing environmental impact. Among some of these, we’re seeing concepts like carbon offsetting and insetting become more prominent across coffee production. 

Insetting is the process of organisations reducing net carbon emissions within their own supply chains, while offsetting is when they acquire carbon credits to balance their emissions, often looking beyond their suppliers or even to other sectors to do so.

Furthermore, while environmental sustainability at farm level is certainly necessary, it’s important to highlight the role of certifications, too.

Certification schemes are commonplace in the coffee industry, especially those which require coffee businesses to implement more sustainable practices. For instance, organic certifications have strict regulations for farmers – mainly regarding the absence of chemical inputs.

However, Jesse emphasises that consumers need to pay attention to what certifications actually mean.

“Consumers should purchase coffee from companies who [have passed many checks to receive their certifications],” he says.

Many smallholder producers may already be carrying out organic practices on their coffee farms. However, because obtaining certifications can be costly, some farmers may be unable to apply – meaning they are retaining less value.

Ultimately, Ritesh believes that the push for environmental conservation in coffee production comes down to whether customers are willing to pay more.

“To use compostable bags, or produce shade-grown coffee, or implement organic farming practices costs more money – the end customer needs to be willing to pay for it,” he concludes.

Although sustainable changes have been made in recent years, it’s clear that more legislation, investment, and awareness is required to resolve some of the environmental issues related to coffee production. We also can’t ignore the financial implications of making these changes at farm level – particularly where smallholder farmers are concerned.

Ultimately, there are signs that things will keep improving, but with mounting pressure from the threat of climate change, one thing is arguably clear: the need for more substantive change is certainly increasing. 

Enjoyed this? Then try our article on whether coffee quality & environmental sustainability go hand in hand.

Photo credits: Mauhobaah Butt

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Findings from a research paper published earlier this year conclude that four of the five top coffee-producing countries in the world will see the amount of land suitable for coffee production fall by 2050. It’s believed that coffee will be one of the worst-affected crops around the world as far as the effects of climate change are concerned – leaving some farmers even more vulnerable than they currently are.

However, there are a number of things that can be done at farm level to mitigate the impact of climate change. One of these is rootstock grafting. When executed successfully and in the right way, this can help coffee plants become more resilient to extreme weather.

So, what is rootstock grafting and how does it work? I spoke to two people involved in the BOLERO project (Breeding for coffee and cocoa root resilience in low input farming systems based on improved rootstocks), an €8.5 million EU-funded initiative under Horizon Europe, to learn more. Read on to find out what they said.

You may also like our article on how grafting arabica to robusta can improve coffee yields.

What are rootstocks?

In order to graft coffee plants successfully, we must first understand the different parts of the plant. 

The rootstock comprises the roots and stem segments that grow under the soil, which are essential for supporting the plant and absorbing nutrients. The scions are the offshoots or twigs that grow above ground – these contain the plant’s genetic material that determine which types of flower and fruit will grow.

Fabrizio Arigoni is the Head of Plant Science at Nestlé Research. 

“A plant’s root system is an important part of assessing adaptability to stressors, such as disease and drought,” he explains. “Grafting allows you to create more resilient plants by combining together complementary coffee species or varieties.”

For example, grafting an arabica scion onto a robusta rootstock is a common way of strengthening the root system of an arabica plant. This is because robusta rootstocks are larger and stronger, which means the plant can then absorb more water and nutrients.

Benoît Bertrand is a geneticist at French agricultural research organisation CIRAD.

“The practice of grafting rootstocks is commonly used with many crops, including citrus plants, apple trees, and vines,” he says.

So how does rootstock grafting work?

“Rootstock grafting is when you connect the upper part of one plant to the root system of another,” Fabrizio says. 

Essentially, after the plant has been growing for 50 to 70 days, a small incision is made below the plant’s first leaves. The rootstock and scion are then taped together and left to grow into each other.

“In the grafting process, rootstocks will dictate the development of the rooting system – the branching and its horizontal and vertical extensions,” Fabrizio adds.

However, it is advised that only those with the required knowledge and experience carry out rootstock grafting, as it is delicate and complex.

Why is rootstock grafting so important?

Rootstock grafting is not a new practice; it’s been carried out since the late 19th century. However, it is arguably becoming more necessary than ever for the coffee sector.

“Coffee production is under threat of disease and drought, which are both exacerbated by climate change,” Fabrizio explains. “This can mean that farming is becoming increasingly more challenging for some producers.

“A recent study showed that by 2050, all main coffee-producing countries will be seriously affected by drought and rising temperatures – with a potentially dramatic effect on coffee production,” he adds. “Moreover, global coffee consumption is increasing, which puts pressure on the global supply chain.”

Among a number of other sustainability techniques implemented on coffee farms, including agroforestry, research has shown that successful rootstock grafting can benefit coffee plants by making them more resilient to extreme weather.

“Numerous scientific studies show that grafting well-selected rootstocks can help coffee plants adapt to difficult soil and/or climate conditions,” Benoît explains. “Rootstock grafting can allow plants to adapt better to higher temperatures, prolonged drought, excess water, and higher aluminium levels (which causes toxicity in many soils).

“Rootstock varieties can be fast and effective at mitigating the effects of global warming for both robusta and arabica, without no effects on quality or yields,” he adds.

Benoît also says that rootstock grafting can provide coffee plants with better protection against certain pests and diseases – some of which are becoming more prevalent as a result of climate change. 

“When cultivating arabica coffee, rootstock grafting is used to protect plants against nematodes,” he explains. These are small parasitic worms which can drain nutrients from the root systems of coffee plants, thereby inhibiting growth.

Furthermore, as rootstock grafting helps coffee plants to absorb more nutrients, this means the use of fertilisers becomes less necessary.

“Fertilisers contribute to around 20% of the total carbon footprint of the overall agricultural industry,” Fabrizio says. “Furthermore, nitrogen has the highest levels of greenhouse gas emissions [out of all fertilisers] because the production process is energy-intensive, but also because emissions continue after the fertiliser is applied to the soil.”

Improving farmer resilience

We know that the extreme and erratic weather caused by climate change occurs most prominently in equatorial and tropical regions. This is also where the vast majority of the world’s coffee is grown.

As such, helping coffee farmers become more resilient is vital if we are to secure a future for the coffee industry.

“A coffee farm is a small enterprise, and the farmer’s income depends on the balance between input and output,” Fabrizio says. “The BOLERO project aims to cultivate coffee plants that are better adapted to climate change, so they can be offered to farmers to make their livelihoods more resilient.”

Benoît explains more about the project, which is being carried out by CIRAD. Some of the project’s 18 partners include larger companies (such as Nestlé, Jacob Douwe Egberts, Lavazza, illycaffè, and ECOM Trading) coffee institutes (such as WASI, NACORI, CATIE, and Promecafe), and several prestigious European universities.

“The objective of the BOLERO project is to develop rootstocks for robusta and arabica plants,” Benoît tells me. “CIRAD will then assess whether these rootstocks can increase carbon fixation, decrease water usage, and increase nitrogen consumption.

“The project will also assess whether the microbiome (the community of microorganisms, such as bacteria, fungi, and yeasts) in the roots of the coffee plants is improved by rootstock grafting,” he adds. 

Fabrizio tells me: “Participating in the BOLERO project has been a unique opportunity for Nestlé to collaborate with and share knowledge and expertise on coffee research with a larger community of people, such as CIRAD.

“Contributors to the BOLERO project all have different areas of expertise, including plant physiology, plant genetics, genomics, and breeding,” he adds.

The project, which will begin in October 2022, will take place on coffee farms in Vietnam, Nicaragua, and Uganda. Benoît explains why rootstock grafting is essential for coffee production in these countries.

“In Vietnam, producers frequently graft robusta onto liberica,” says Benoît. “Meanwhile, in Uganda, global warming is already affecting robusta production. 

“Finally, in Nicaragua, CIRAD will evaluate whether grafting robusta to arabica will help to protect plants from increasingly frequent episodes of drought and high temperatures,” he adds. “We will use both robusta and wild coffee species to develop rootstocks.”

By using wild coffee species in rootstock grafting, researchers may also have a better change of protecting the lesser-known species in the Coffea genus; it’s estimated that as many as 60% of these species could be at risk of becoming extinct because of climate change.

Looking ahead to the future

Climate change is a complex problem of immense proportions that bears a significant threat for the future of the coffee industry. However, it’s clear that preventative practices like rootstock grafting can help coffee farmers to adapt to ever-changing environmental conditions.

“Coffee rootstock research is crucial when it comes to mitigating the impact of climate change,” Fabrizio says. “It leads to the discovery of novel solutions that are sustainable and can be implemented at scale.”

Benoît agrees, telling me: “Rootstocks will considerably improve the productivity and climate adaptation of coffee plants.

“The grafting technique is very simple,” he says. “It’s already implemented on a large scale in some producing countries, such as Guatemala – including by smallholder farmers.”

But Benoît points out some of the issues that come with carrying out the technique.

“The real challenge is encouraging more producers to adopt this practice,” he says. “The price of seed is a major deterrent, so CIRAD wants to develop a new, [more accessible] seed.

“What’s more, observing root growth is always difficult with grafting,” Benoît adds. “To combat this, the Leibniz Institute of Plant Genetics and Crop Plant Research has developed near-infrared imaging to observe the roots of young plants.”

While this technology may not be accessible for all coffee farmers, CIRAD has also created another set of digital tools to support producers.

“On farms, we will use scanners developed by CIRAD to measure root growth over several years,” he adds. “The analysis will be carried out by artificial intelligence algorithms which were developed as part of the project.”

And alongside increasing climate resilience, rootstock grafting could even potentially improve coffee quality and flavour. For instance, a Gesha and Caturra hybrid known as CGLE 17 was cultivated on Colombian farms and sold for a price of US $75/lb at a 2021 auction – showing the potential to improve income.

Rootstock grafting has proven benefits for coffee farmers. If carried out successfully with the required knowledge and skills, it can be worth the initial investment – especially as coffee production is becoming more and more affected by climate change.

As long as less experienced producers seek the advice and support from qualified grafting professionals, this technique could be one of the best ways to mitigate the impact of climate change and secure the future of the coffee sector.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how agroforestry can help to secure the future of the coffee industry.

Photo credits: Nestlé, Benoît Bertrand

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Among other factors, this can be partially attributed to the ever-growing urbanisation and development in Kenya. This has caused the amount of land used for coffee production to fall, as much of it is sold or abandoned.

As a response to this, some Kenyan coffee farmers are choosing to lease land in order to increase the available amount of acreage for coffee cultivation. But how does this process work?

I spoke to three local coffee professionals to find out more. Read on to learn what they had to say about land leasing in the Kenyan coffee industry.

You may also like our article explaining coffee & direct trade in East Africa.

Why are some producers leasing land?

Land abandonment is a serious issue in Kenya’s coffee sector. The reasons behind it are complex, but it’s generally a result of low prices for green coffee and rising costs of production, as well as growing demand for housing near big cities.

This has led some of the country’s coffee producers to lease parcels of land to other farmers.

Land leasing, as a general concept, is where one party pays an agreed amount of money for a parcel of land for a predetermined period of time. However, land leasing in coffee production is somewhat different.

In many cases, coffee plants are already growing on the parcels of land which are to be leased. The owner will either lease out the land after ceasing coffee production for a short period of time, or if they no longer want to continue growing coffee.

In cases where the leased land is growing coffee plants, the lessee is usually required to continue with or revive coffee production. 

Unfortunately, however, many of these farms are in bad condition, with abandoned coffee plants growing among other cash crops. Moreover, some of the coffee plants are often inaccessible – and require extensive investment and maintenance.

Paul Mburu has been growing coffee for over ten years and has witnessed firsthand the increasing abandonment of coffee farms in Kenya.

“It’s hard to understand why people leave coffee trees to rot on farms,” he says. “People say growing coffee isn’t easy work – but what type of [farming isn’t labour-intensive]?”

Over the years, Paul has leased three farms that had previously been abandoned. He tells me that he has never owned a coffee farm, but he plans on starting one in the near future.

“I was very lucky to lease a farm next to my home,” he says. “The owners stopped growing coffee, but like many people, they didn’t uproot or cut down the coffee trees. 

“This made it easier for me to continue with coffee farming,” he adds.

How do lease agreements work?

Coffee harvest seasons are biannual in Kenya, and run from March to July and September to December. These periods are often used for lease agreements, but some lessors who consider January to December to be the standard duration. Ultimately, the terms largely depend on the agreement in question.

There are various land leasing models for coffee production which are used in Kenya. The most common model is when the farmer leases the entire parcel of land, including the coffee plants. This means that the lessee can use the land with very few restrictions – granting them more control over the farm.

Another model involves leasing only the plants, but not the land itself. Because of this, the lessor is legally allowed to have significant input into how the land is used, but they generally do not interfere with farm management.

Jayne Karani is a coffee farmer in Kenya. She owns one coffee farm as well as leasing another. She says the most important thing when leasing is to establish a clear agreement between both parties. 

“The agreement should be based on the number of years you will cultivate coffee for, and it should be signed by a lawyer or a chief,” she says. “It should also be stamped to avoid the nullification of the contract.”

She adds that if the lessor requests to take back ownership of the farm, they should pay the farmers the amount stated in the contract, which is based on a number of conditions.

Jayne also explains that some land owners will impose certain requirements when the lease agreement is signed. For example, they may stipulate that farmers don’t interfere with coffee plants already growing on the land. As well as this, they may also require lessees to graft new trees, plant more seedlings, or carry out pruning.

“Some owners will allow you to plant new coffee seedlings, or even carry out grafting and top-working,” Paul says. “In these instances, the leases are long-term; usually six or more years.” 

“But some land owners don’t [want farmers to modify coffee trees already growing],” Jayne says. “This is usually because they want to regain control of the land after the lease period ends.” 

This can be advantageous for lessees because the coffee trees are usually kept in good condition – meaning less manual labour is necessary.

Inevitably, when a lease ends, some issues can arise if farmers have replanted coffee trees. This is because the farm still belongs to the owner, but the new seedlings may belong to the lessee. This can naturally cause confusion and disagreements over what is owed to whom.

“Before planting any new coffee trees on leased land, consider how long you want to lease the farm for,” Jayne suggests. “After the lease has ended, no trees will be uprooted, so it is worth taking the time to understand if planting new trees is worthwhile.”

Paul agrees, saying that for leases which are six years or more, planting new coffee trees makes sense.

“[If you plant more trees], you will have harvested coffee at least eight times [over longer time periods],” he explains. “However, for shorter leases, it is better to rehabilitate the trees already growing. 

“Top-working is an effective technique in these cases,” he adds. This practice is prominent in Kenya, when coffee farmers use stumps of older trees to establish the production of new varieties.

Costs involved with land leasing

The cost of leasing land to grow coffee varies greatly for a number of reasons. These include the owner’s preferences, the region where the farm is located, the size of the farm, the number of coffee trees on the farm, and the length of the lease agreement.

For the most part, many coffee farmers in Kenya see land leasing as an investment that will replenish overhead costs over longer periods of time. However, this mainly depends on the size of the land and the time in which the land will be leased.

Paul says that in his experience, negotiations with lessors can sometimes be difficult.

“It is important to have good negotiation skills,” he explains. “Some owners can be difficult to negotiate with and will demand more money. Some may ask for this money before you start working on the farm.”

Steve Nganga is a Kenyan coffee producer who owns one farm and leases two others. 

He tells me that in areas where coffee production is widespread, the land available for leasing is usually reduced, which increases the prices for a contract.

“In these areas, it is not easy to lease a farm,” he adds. “Even if one is available, it is sometimes leased privately, with no availability to the public.”

However, not all leased farms are established, which reduces contract prices. In some areas in Kenya, owners lease “virgin” land and plant only new coffee trees.

Steve adds that lessees need to also consider additional costs, such as fertilisers, pesticides, manure, and paying labourers.

Looking to the future

According to Steve, land leasing is already helping to bolster coffee production in Kenya. 

“The farms that were being revived used to be counted in the national coffee production statistics, which meant that overall production figures were low,” he says. “These farms are now producing almost five times more than what they used to, so production figures are increasing.”

Jayne agrees, but she believes that owners should not be abandoning coffee production in the first place. 

“If growing coffee is profitable for lessees, then surely it must be for farmers, too,” she says. “It’s a tricky situation because we need more land, yet we want more farmers to take up coffee farming.”

Steve explains that land leasing is an attractive prospect for many coffee producers in Kenya.

“The farms are there for leasing, while the price of cherry is rising,” he says.

However, he warns that farmers should be “level-headed and be aware of what they are getting into” when leasing land – particularly with abandoned farms.

“A lot of labour is required to revive these farms,” he says. “You should be aware that you are making a long-term investment. 

“It helps to have more experience with coffee farming and more awareness of the associated costs,” he adds.

Ultimately, any initiatives that can help Kenyan coffee production to grow will be welcomed by much of the country’s farming population. And while land succession is a key issue in the country’s coffee industry, land leasing is one way that farmers can move forward.

However, while many farmers are reaping the rewards of leasing coffee farms, that doesn’t mean the practice is not without its challenges.

In conclusion, any coffee farmers interested in leasing land should be careful. Although there are benefits, the process can be difficult, the contract terms are not universal, and some owners are expressing interest in taking back their land after successful harvests.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the initiative rejuvenating coffee production in Kenya.

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However, the country faces a number of issues, including an ageing coffee farmer population, which is causing a generational gap to form, as younger generations are becoming increasingly disinterested in coffee production.

Alongside this issue of an ageing population, however, land succession can create further concern for the future of Kenyan coffee production. To learn more about it, I spoke with three Kenyan coffee producers. Read on to find out what they said.

You might also like our article on “Nyumba Kumi Kahawa”: The initiative rejuvenating coffee production in Kenya.

Land succession in Kenyan coffee production

While there have certainly been increasing efforts from various stakeholders in the Kenyan coffee supply chain to encourage younger generations to work in coffee production, a generational divide still remains.

It’s estimated that more than 50% of Kenya’s coffee farmers are 60 or above. Naturally, this means that soon enough, many older farmers will quickly reach a point when they can no longer run farms on their own. This leads to several issues, including declines in coffee production and coffee quality.  

There is also some hesitation from farmers about passing on land and coffee plants to their children. This is largely due to concerns that younger people will either sell the farms, rather than focusing on scaling them.

This is also exacerbated by the issue of inheritance. When a coffee farm owned by a single farmer is shared by their family, often multiple family members have differences in opinion when it comes to what to do with it.

Some may want to sell it, while others may want to farm. In many cases, the land ends up being divided into much smaller parcels, which are then individually sold or used for cultivation. However, in some of these cases, the land itself may not be of a significant enough area to make coffee farming economically viable.

As such, this means that when older relatives who grow coffee pass away, their younger family members end up being forced to sell the farm, irrespective of their interest in coffee production. Many of them are also inclined to migrate from rural areas to cities, mainly because they believe there are more viable economic and educational opportunities for them in urban areas.

However, it’s important to note that in some cases, many rural Kenyans do actually plan to return to their home in the longer term. In a survey from non-profit Research Triangle Institute, 76% of young Kenyan men said they had permanent plans to return to their rural areas of origin.

This can encourage some of Kenya’s older coffee farmers to entrust their land to younger generations, but it is by no means a guarantee that coffee production will thrive into the future. 

In these instances, the owners can educate younger people on farming and harvesting best practices, so that farms can remain in operation for years to come.

What happens to coffee farms when land is sold?

The issues around land succession in coffee production are the most prominent in the counties surrounding the country’s capital of Nairobi. For example, the northwestern county of Kiambu was once one of the top coffee-producing regions in Kenya, until the region went through a period of intense development and urbanisation some years ago.

This is largely a result of the rising demand for housing and accommodation in Nairobi, which has left entire coffee farms abandoned or sold.

Some of these farms were sold off by younger people who inherited them from their parents, as investing in coffee production is seen as less economically viable than selling the farm outright. 

In cases when the land is divided between multiple siblings or relatives, it can be difficult to reach a unanimous decision with what to do with the land – particularly in regards to coffee production. 

For example, if five beneficiaries inherit the land, it’s unlikely that all of them will want to use the land in the same way, or agree to equally sell the plots of land.

This means that some parts of the divided land may be sold and developed in a way that negatively affects coffee production, such as decreasing the fertility of the soil. This ultimately makes it difficult for any coffee farming to be economically viable or sustainable – even if some of the beneficiaries are willing to invest in it.

Furthermore, unless the original owner of the land leaves behind clear instructions on what should be done to the coffee trees, there is often little expertise left in the family to justify retaining it.

Once the farm is sold, the land is then usually divided among a number of different developers, which offer a large lump sum of money that can be appealing to many young people.

Paul Kariuki is a coffee farmer from an area in Kenya where coffee production is declining.

“Once a farm is sold, the first thing that happens is land division,” he explains. “This can sometimes even result in high tensions and, in some cases, violence between the parties purchasing the land.”

He adds that even when there is no conflict, dividing the land requires more infrastructure, which in turn can affect the fertility of the land.

“Ultimately, the increase in development means that the land cannot be used for any significant coffee production,” he says. 

Naturally, urban development also means that the coffee trees are then uprooted and disposed of to make space for buildings and other infrastructure. 

Francis Wambugu is a smallholder coffee producer in Kenya. He tells me that younger generations sometimes don’t understand the damage caused by uprooting coffee trees – both to their own finances and the wider coffee industry. 

“It’s better to lease the land than sell it altogether, otherwise you will never make more money from the land,” he says. “Coffee farmers should advise their children on proper land management and reinforce that the land is supposed to benefit future generations, too.”

What are the perceptions of coffee farming?

Francis tells me that his sons will be able to inherit his farm once he retires from coffee production – something that he hopes will happen.

“Coffee farming has been a significant part of my life, so it would be sad to see my coffee trees uprooted for other crops,” he says. “I think that wider misconceptions about coffee production are often to blame [for young people abandoning coffee farms].

“Most parents in Kenya don’t want their children to work in agriculture, especially if they are educated,” he adds.

However, Francis tells me that the Covid-19 pandemic has actually spurred a change in mentality in some cases. He says that now more than ever, more younger people are returning to farms to assist with coffee production, but many still lack the necessary skills for high-quality farming.

“Older generations need to support younger people with best farming practices,” Francis says. “Coffee is a unique crop and it requires care and attention – we as coffee farmers are the best people to teach our children about production.”

What are the solutions?

An ageing farmer population and growing disinterest in coffee production are major concerns for Kenya’s coffee industry, so what can be done to resolve them?

Paul suggests that coffee producers firstly need to leave behind clear guidelines on how to best utilise the land.

“Younger generations should avoid uprooting coffee trees,” he tells me. “Coffee grows well when intercropped with other plants, and it won’t hinder the growth of other food crops, such as maize or beans. 

“In fact, some food crops, such as beans, can benefit when intercropped with coffee,” he adds.

Gerald Muriithi is a retired coffee farmer from Kenya. He tells me that his two sons inherited his coffee farm and continued to work in coffee – something that he is proud of.

“I taught my sons from an early age about the benefits of coffee production,” he says. “I am happily retired knowing that they continue to grow coffee.” 

Gerald believes younger generations need to be patient with the coffee farms they inherit.

“Once you inherit the land, you need to add value to it, not destroy it,” he explains. “Coffee production has the ability to provide younger people with an income for many years.”

However, many Kenyan coffee farmers are still concerned about the future of the country’s coffee sector. Improving access to coffee education to bridge the gap in the supply chain allows younger people to understand more about the value of coffee production.

For example, maintaining around 150 coffee trees can produce between 2,250kg and 2,500kg of cherry per harvest. This means a substantial amount of land can be required for farmers to operate a profitable farm, especially with fluctuating coffee prices.

As an alternative, as Francis mentions, younger generations who inherit land can lease it to other producers instead. This gives them a recurring long-term income from the land while still supporting the country’s coffee industry.

In order to encourage young people to take part in coffee production, industry stakeholders need to offer more opportunities for education to support this transition. This includes local organisations, community leaders, and experienced farmers.

Ultimately, the more young people are involved in Kenyan coffee production, the higher the chances are that the country’s coffee industry will be able to grow in the future.

However, whether or not the problems around land succession in coffee production and an ageing agricultural population will worsen remains to be seen. If this is to change, significant investment in training and education are undoubtedly essential.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on renewing generational interest in Kenyan coffee production.

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One of these many variables is cherry ripeness. It’s accepted across the industry that fully ripe cherries produce higher-scoring coffees.

But what if we could extract more quality from unripe coffee cherries? What would this mean for consumers? How would it taste, and would there be any other benefits?

To learn more, I spoke with stakeholders from all across the coffee supply chain. Read on to find out what they told me.

You might also like our article on how microorganisms affect fermentation.

Cherry ripeness and cup quality

Lucas Venturim is an award-winning specialty coffee producer and the director of Fazenda Venturim in Espírito Santo, Brazil. Fazenda Venturim grows high-quality or “fine” robusta, which has been cultivated and processed to a high standard to create desirable flavour profiles. 

However, Lucas says that no matter the species, unripe cherries produce cup profiles that aren’t as sweet and complex. 

“When the fruit isn’t fully ripe yet, it hasn’t developed all of the potential sugars,” he explains. “Because it hasn’t converted all its energy into sugars, the aromas and flavours don’t reach their full potential.”

Despite this, it’s not always easy for producers to harvest every single cherry at optimum ripeness. 

“We never manage to harvest all the fruits at the ideal maturation point,” he says. “Instead, you have a window, which we call the ‘harvest window’.

“Even if you dedicate 100% of your time to picking all the cherries at the right point, in the absolute best case scenario, some fruits will still be picked before or after the perfect point.”

Professor Flávio Borém has been teaching at the Federal University of Lavras (UFLA) in Minas Gerais, Brazil for almost 25 years. He is respected nationally and internationally as an authoritative voice on coffee science.

“Final cup quality is directly related to the proportion of ripe and unripe fruits at the time of harvest,” he says. “The higher the percentage of unripe fruits, the greater the astringency; the presence of unpleasant flavours (such as herbaceous and peanut notes) also increases.”

Health benefits of coffee consumption

There can be no doubt that consumer demand for higher-quality food and beverage products has grown in the last few years. A report by YouGov America claims that 80% of millennials in the US state that quality is a key factor when buying food and beverages. 

And while this change can be attributed to a number of factors, health and wellbeing arguably top the list. According to Mintel, a staggering 78% of US consumers believe that eating healthy food improves their emotional wellbeing.

This trend isn’t just limited to the US, however; it’s becoming steadily more prominent all around the world. Isao Takahashi is the General Manager of the CM Department Raw Procurement Division at UNICAFE Inc., a Japanese coffee roaster. 

He says: “Lifestyle-related diseases such as cancer, cardiovascular disease, and diabetes are deeply related to the causes of death among Japanese people, and we believe that prevention of lifestyle-related diseases is a very significant theme as a background of the growing population of elderly people.” 

Isao also notes that coffee is increasingly being recognised as a healthy beverage. “Many studies have shown that drinking coffee is associated with the prevention of those lifestyle-related diseases,” he adds. “We have therefore been focusing on the [role of the] polyphenols contained in coffee.” 

Professor Borém concurs: “The beneficial health effects of coffee are generally attributed to its high antioxidant activity, which is mainly associated with its high levels of polyphenols.” 

One such example of these polyphenols is chlorogenic acid, which naturally occurs in coffee. At high levels, chlorogenic acid causes undesirable, highly astringent flavours in the cup. However, it has also been linked with a number of notable health benefits. 

First and foremost, chlorogenic acid is an antioxidant. Antioxidants prevent cells from being oxidised, which in turn halts free radical production. Free radicals (unpaired and unstable atoms) left to “roam” the human body are associated with a number of long-term diseases, such as arthritis, heart disease, and Alzheimer’s.

Alongside this, chlorogenic acid is also a natural anti-inflammatory, and has been shown to inhibit the hepatitis B virus.

What about unripe cherries?

Despite the unpleasant flavours that unripe coffee cherries typically produce, they are safe for consumption and even healthier than ripe cherries in some areas.

Professor Borém says: “Even though the beans from immature cherries have been classified as defective for decades, they are healthy and represent no harm to health. 

“This is unlike beans that have been damaged by pests or diseases, which can have lower cup quality and also pose health risks to the consumer.”

Furthermore, he adds: “Coffee beans from immature fruits have a greater amount of active antioxidant compounds than those from mature fruits.”

A cutting-edge nutraceutical coffee project

Matthias Koenig is the Head of Agri Value Chain Specialties Businesses at Syngenta, a world-leading agricultural supply company. Nucoffee is a coffee platform operated in Brazil by the Syngenta group. 

Matthias explains that together with stakeholders from across the industry, Nucoffee launched a study to explore the potential for unripe coffee cherries.

He says: “The idea has always focused on the connection between Brazilian coffee producers and international buyers, with a view to improving the value chain, adding transparency, and supporting the development of quality and sustainability on farms.”

Isao adds: “Since chlorogenic acid has a tendency to decrease during the roast, we wondered if it was possible to produce green coffee beans [which were] rich in chlorogenic acid in coffee-producing countries like Brazil, which was our focus at the time.” 

After five years of research, Matthias says that the study has developed a unique, experimental post-harvest technique which can improve the quality and complexity of the beans harvested from unripe coffee cherries. The project itself was an idea from Professor Borém, as he developed the technology which forms the basis of the technique.

Syngenta invested in this project not just to add value and quality to the final product, but also to support farmers. There is generally only a short window when coffee cherries can be harvested at their ripest, and having pickers repeatedly patrol the same areas is not feasible or cost-effective.

The idea behind the project is simple. Unripe coffee beans are naturally more astringent, but also higher in antioxidants. By using this unique technological innovation to counteract the astringency and create a more desirable cup profile, you can use unripe cherries to produce a coffee which is more marketable to health-conscious consumers.

While initially the method was used with a ratio of 70% ripe to 30% unripe cherries, it has since been refined. Using this unique technology, it is now possible to achieve good results with a full batch of 100% unripe coffee cherries.

Professor Borém says: “The post-harvest technology developed at UFLA and licensed to Syngenta Nucoffee was able to raise the cup score of the treated coffee by up to five points.

“Studies have shown that this makes the cup sweeter, slightly acidic, and gives it more complex flavours, often of fruits or spices.”

Lucas Venturim, who has contributed to the research by performing experiments on his farm, says he was surprised with the results. “We achieved an exceptional improvement in quality,” he tells me.

“In the first experiment, we used an untreated coffee as a control group, and it scored 78 points. The coffee that was treated, however, scored around 85 to 86. It’s an incredible increase. 

“But what’s really interesting is that it generated a sensory profile that was totally different from anything we’ve ever had on the farm,” he adds.

Matthias says: “The high antioxidant activity of unripe coffee cherries has been known for a while, but the ability to manage the sensory profile of these coffees is unique.”

Finally, Isao adds: “While we are still in the process of carefully considering the superiority of the high chlorogenic acid levels, the quality of nutraceutical coffee was high because of the distinctive, bright acidity, sweetness, clean taste, and pleasant finish, which altogether reminded us of the quality of specialty coffee.”

What could this mean for the supply chain?

From a producer’s perspective, Lucas says this method could be really helpful, as it’s virtually impossible to harvest every single cherry at its ripest point. 

He says: “The idea is not to encourage everyone to harvest unripe cherries with this process, but rather to take advantage of the inevitable proportion of unripe cherries, and therefore get more profit out of them.

“Then, if the average income of the farm improves, it will be better equipped to make investments and remunerate those who work on it. I think it’s revolutionary for that reason: you start taking a product that until then had been undervalued in the market, and realise you can turn it into a new product which can reach a really high value.”

And the evidence is there, according to Matthias. He says: “We have observed the reaction of potential buyers and other value chain participants, and the feedback has been very exciting. 

“There are several ways to apply this technique and use it to make coffee healthier, and more sustainable, while also creating new market segments for Brazilian coffee,” he explains.

Isao adds: “This is truly an innovation. The value of the coffee will rise, and if unripe coffee cherries can [increase in value], we can expect positive effects, including better quality of life for producers, more motivation to grow coffee, and continued quality improvement.”

Professor Borém says that he finds the research to be groundbreaking: “I consider the most important aspect of this research to be the challenging of an old paradigm that most people did not believe was possible. 

“It is now possible to explore the health benefits and quality of coffee at the same time,” he concludes.

Across the coffee sector, producers face no shortage of challenges to maintain profitability. One of them is the question of what to do with unripe cherries, as historically, every green cherry harvested represents lost potential income.

However, a world where unripe coffee cherries could yield better-quality, more marketable coffee could be much more sustainable for the producer, as well as beneficial for others across the supply chain.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on nature vs nurture and what has the greatest effect on coffee quality.

Photo credits: Fazenda Venturim, Fazenda Canto Alegre, and Sítio Santa Edwirges

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When we talk about environmental sustainability in particular, one of the many areas where coffee production can turn is agroecology. This is a field which covers farming techniques which by nature account for the ecological relationships between plants, animals, people, and the environment. By using them, the idea is that we can minimise the impact of farming on wildlife and nature, while also giving farmers more control over crop yield and quality.

Syntropic agriculture is one agroecological model which is used in many industries, including in coffee production. But how does it work and how can producers apply this model to their farms?

To find out, I spoke to the pioneer of syntropic agriculture, Ernst Götsch, and two coffee farmers who use this model. Read on to find out what they told me.

You might also like our article on biodynamic coffee production.

What is syntropic agriculture?

Syntropic farming (also known as successional agroforestry) is essentially regenerative agriculture, but there are a number of layers to the model. Farming methods are used to integrate food production (including coffee) with the surrounding environment in a way which benefits both.

The syntropic farming model was developed by Swiss farmer and researcher Ernst Götsch. He has been working on farms in Bahia, Brazil since the 1980s.

He explains the holistic approach behind syntropic farming.

“It’s the process of producing and harvesting what we need from plants and animals, while still maintaining a positive balance in the relationships between the different species,” he says.

While some agricultural models focus on increasing crop yield, Ernst points out that syntropic farming encourages more natural and sustainable methods of food production. For instance, planting several different species of trees together in the same area will encourage biodiversity. The number of animals, birds, insects, and microorganisms will increase, thereby creating a more healthy and diverse ecosystem. 

“Syntropic agriculture is about understanding the dynamics between all organisms,” Ernst says. “It’s also about reaching a level of integration that is beneficial to all organisms in the ecosystem.”

In order for syntropic agriculture to be successful, Ernst says it must be acknowledged that each plant, animal, bird, insect, and microorganism plays a vital role in the ecosystem, and therefore they all need to work together harmoniously.

Agroecological farming practices are known to improve soil health and water cycles, regulate microenvironments, and improve the area’s resilience where climate change is concerned. Over time, if balance is achieved between all organisms, crop production can benefit immensely. 

Implementing the model on coffee farms

Wilians Valério Jr. is a Brazilian coffee producer from Alto Caparaó, a city in the coffee-producing region of Caparaó. He won the 2019 Brazil’s Coffee of the Year award with a “syntropic coffee”. He tells me he uses this model across all areas of his farm. 

“I try to accelerate the processes of nature,” he explains. “If you can understand natural processes, you can improve soil health and accumulate energy in the ecosystem.”

After several years of disappointing results using more traditional farming methods, Wilians says he and his family were pushed to try syntropic farming. In his experience, he tells me that these traditional methods resulted in low-quality coffee with inconsistent yields, which didn’t provide them with much economic stability. 

In order to improve quality and yields, Wilians’ father replanted all the coffee trees and intercropped them with other trees, including peach, physalis, and olive. 

When Wilians took over production on the family-led farm in 2015, he chose to focus on specialty coffee production.

“I decided on a farming model which could improve our income without removing any coffee trees that my father already planted, so I looked into syntropic agriculture,” he says.

Two years later, Wilians placed 12th at the Brazil Coffee of the Year awards. Since then, the family have used syntropic farming across their entire farm, which has had promising results; he placed 6th the following year.

He tells me he was inspired to use syntropic farming by another farmer, who had been sustainably growing coffee in the Caparaó mountains for over 25 years. 

Clayton Barrossa Monteiro grows organic specialty coffee at a farm near Ninho da Águia. He is well known for his self-sustainable, agroecological farm management practices – receiving his first award in 2012.

“Producers started to believe that specialty coffee had to be organic,” he says. “This then pushed others to start growing coffee in more sustainable ways.”

Changing perceptions and practices

Wilians says that in order for syntropic coffee production to be successful, the impact on the entire ecosystem must be taken into account.

“We’re always looking at the next step,” he says. “We must consider what benefits the plants. We are always growing, pruning, and harvesting in balance with nature.”

Ernst actually adds that traditional farming techniques have some “limitations”. He says that in his experience, they can sometimes result in an imbalance of resources, such as water, nutrients, and natural light. 

Conversely, he explains that issues related to syntropic farming are typically the result of lack of knowledge about how to carry out these methods effectively.

“The problem is not about a lack of water or soil fertility,” he explains. “It’s a lack of knowledge about syntropic processes. The farmer or consultant is not recommending the best techniques or practices.”

For coffee farmers who have the infrastructure and financial access to invest in syntropic farming, Ernst adds that there needs to be a significant move away from long-held, traditional farm management practices in order for the new methods to be as effective as possible. This change can be demanding and costly, therefore making it inaccessible to some coffee farmers.

“Farmers spend more money when they first implement sustainable agricultural models,” Clayton says. “But if they can ensure that they plan out tree lines and nests (the holes in which trees are planted in) in an efficient manner, then they don’t have to keep investing in their trees.”

Clayton adds that once farmers have implemented syntropic farming techniques, most future costs will largely stem from pruning coffee trees.

How can syntropic farming enhance coffee quality?

Ernst explains that one of the many benefits of syntropic agriculture is that it can optimise yield per tree in the long term. This is largely because the trees grow in harmony with nature, so they can reach their full potential when given sufficient time.

After implementing syntropic farming techniques at his farm, Wilians says he noticed significant improvements in his coffee.

“The trees’ resistance to pests and diseases, tree growth and productivity, and bean size all improved,” he says.

He adds that his coffee tasted more complex, with more depth and a prolonged finish on the palate.

Clayton adds that when using more sustainable methods of coffee production, such as syntropic farming techniques, coffee yields can become more consistent.

“When trees are exposed to more stress, it can lead to variations of high or low productivity,” he explains. “With syntropic farming, the development of trees happens in a more balanced way, and we can taste that in the coffee.”

This is mostly a result of consistent pruning, shading, and exposure to light. When these variables are more consistent and controlled, coffee trees can respond in a more positive way to any environmental changes.

The challenges of syntropic farming

Although there are numerous benefits to this sustainable method of coffee production, farmers certainly face several challenges when adopting it.

Wilians says that it can be difficult for producers to acclimate to how long it can take for quality and yields to improve.

“The time it takes to learn, understand, and change the perceptions tied to more traditional farming is also challenging,” he explains. “It takes time to understand what is good for the land and the natural processes involved.

“Farmers have a higher chance of making mistakes,” he adds. “Undoubtedly, they will make mistakes, but they can learn from them through constant practice.”

Clayton agrees that syntropic farming methods may not be suited to every coffee farmer.

“A method that works on one farm may not work on another,” he emphasises. “Farmers have to be very careful and have a lot of patience.

“Many producers are used to carrying out the same conventional practices for years,” he says. “They know a lot, but mostly about a few plants.”

For producers using more conventional agricultural methods, transitioning to agroecological models means intercropping coffee with other trees and plants. Ultimately this means that each crop requires different treatment, which can be time consuming and costly.

“Corn can be harvested in 90 days, whereas cassava and other root vegetables are harvested in six months,” Clayton says. “Farmers have to prune higher trees more as well.

“Nature is going to dictate your rhythm. There’s no routine because there is more diversity.”

Is syntropic farming applicable to all coffee farms?

Wilians and Clayton believe that the syntropic farming model can be applied to farms of all types and sizes. However, the key to success is to make sure that the model can be adapted to the specific environment of the farm.

“I’m currently developing syntropic farming in Norway, the Mediterranean and other tropical areas, and even places susceptible to drought,” Ernst explains. “The principles are the same, but the species and ecosystems involved are different.”

In Wilians’ case, it’s a challenge to carry out efficient crop management in a mountainous area as his farm is located at around 1,300 metres above sea level (m.a.s.l.). 

“It’s not easy to best arrange trees for planting, but it’s the only way that allows you to see the possibilities for successful farming,” he says.

With syntropic farming methods, trees are usually planted in parallel lines. Farmers can choose to plant different species and co-ordinate pruning schedules according to the development of each tree.

“Coffee is our main crop, but you can’t ignore other species,” Wilians tells me. “You have to think about the whole setup because everything matters.”

Wilians provides some advice on deciding which plants will work best when intercropped with coffee trees.

“There’s no right or wrong answer, you have to identify the resources you have,” he says. “Available sunlight, types of soil, altitude, the slope of the land – these are some of the factors that impact your decision.”

Sustainable farming models can be beneficial for coffee producers, especially when they have a dual focus on driving up coffee quality and positively affecting the local environment.

Syntropic agriculture is a promising alternative to conventional farming methods, but it’s important for farmers to consider the challenges that come along with it. It requires plenty of patience, as well as no shortage of investment to switch in the first place, meaning that it should not be a decision taken lightly.

Ultimately, by sharing knowledge and collaborating further, farmers will be able to learn more about the nuances of syntropic farming and whether or not it might suit them.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on environmentally sustainable coffee production & profitability.

Photo credits: Ana Paula Rosas, André Berlinck, Iberê Périssé, Georgia Thome

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